Restoring scratched plastic

Plastic, skidplates, bumpers, seat covers, graphics, dress up items, nerf bars, etc.
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CHAINSAW
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#11 Post by CHAINSAW »

Best way, would to just link to another 3 wheeler site where I posted all the info. Its all the same.
http://3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=24247

440EX4ME
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#12 Post by 440EX4ME »

QUOTE (CHAINSAW @ Apr 11 2006, 07:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Best way, would to just link to another 3 wheeler site where I posted all the info. Its all the same.
http://3wheelerworldforums.com/showthread.php?t=24247


The pics arent working for me on either site, but I have done this enough times to see it in my head anyhow.

Wanted to give chainsaw a big thumbs up for taking the time to detail all of that, and except for the choice of the most overpriced sand paper and compound I have ever used (3m is a rip, and you can get similar or better results from others like norton, or meguiars etc and save a ton of $$$) the process and explanation were spot on.

Only thing I didnt see mentioned (sorry if I just missed it) is that you have to be very carefull when buffing with a buffer because you can easilly mess up all your previous work just trying to get it that little bit nicer.

The finese 3m product suggested uses a compound so fine that the heat generated by the buffing itself actually does most of the work (there are also other things in this and other compounds that do work with the heat, and some dont even have any abrasive either) and since the plastic will shine its best when it cools on its own after having just enough heat to slightly melt its surface (and not much more either, or its toast) this is what I believe to be the most critical part of the process, and also where things can go seriously wrong.

Reason I bring this up is that you may want to seriously consider forgetting about the buffer, and just buffing by hand so that you dont run the risk of ruining the whole job on the last step. you can even step up the power of the compound a little (look for something rated to remove the higest grit scratches or sand paper used) if you dont want to work on it as long, but that way you eliminate the risk.

Another thing that comes to mind is how there are many different types of plastic used on the plastic on atv's. I have found that Honda, Yamaha and some of the others used very different plastic, and even the color seems to be different below the surface between them too.

Last thing I can think to add is that if you only have a couple areas that tend to get scratched up much more than the others you dont always have to spend the time needed to go over everything. I have had good success with just working on the bad areas, and even just certain colors that make all the difference in appearence.

What I mean is that if you have only one area that is black that always looks crappy, but the rest of the plastic is good or acceptable since it doesnt show the scratches as much you can just work on the black areas. I helped a friend to make his raptor not look totally neglected by doing just that, and all it took was a very carefull hand and eye while using a heat gun. Since the majority of the rest of the plastic was white it just hid the scratches so well you didnt need to bother etc.

Sorry for the length, but hope that helps.

theJeStEr1340
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#13 Post by theJeStEr1340 »

Pics worked on the other site for me. I am going to try this on my black side spars. Mike it nice for whoever buys the quad.

nitroboy
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#14 Post by nitroboy »

another easy way is to use 0000 steelwool rubbing somewhat lightly knock off the scratches to your likes then wipe plastics with carb cleaner, spray plastics with clear coat spray paint and they look better then brand new !!!!!

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