Dead Cannibal, help!

[cannondale27]

Well now you are getting somewhere!At this point you know for sure you have a simple electrical problem since it should at least click.
When you turn the key on does the fuel pump make a humming noise?I assume it does or if not your fuse is first place I would check since you already checked all connections.The main power relay is second thing wiggle it remove and clean it see what happens.When you hook up your D&M is the green light lit with key on?It should be if not wiggle more wires when light goes on look where you wiggled for bad connection.
Fuel pump humms when key is first turned on then it is real easy.Put quad in neutral.Trace the big red wire coming down from the starter to the solenoid at that point there is another big red wire directly next to it.Take a pliers and touch both those wires at solenoid.Starter should turn motor over or at least make a noise.
Disconnect the two small wires that go into the solenoid.Use a test light with one end hooked to frame and other goes to one of the wires of plug that you just disconnected the plug end that DOESNT go to solenoid.Turn key on pull in clutch and push start button.If test light lights your solenoid is junk or there is a bad connection at plug you are testing.If not try the other wire in this same plug if light lights solenoid is junk.
If not check connections going to clutch lever,start switch,key switch all these have push together connectors and they are packed right above your radiator.
If it still doesnt even click at this point let me know.This is a real long explanation of a process that can be done in about ten minutes after you are familiar with it all.Take your time for now.

Good Luck!

[daericks]

I think I can actually follow those instructions. Oh, it DOES NOT click any more. NO sound whatsoever when the key is turned. I'll check the fuse and then I need to go buy a test light!

I'll see if I can work on it tonight, worst case is this weekend. I'll keep you all posted. Any other ideas? Oh, what watt/volt/amp/psi/torque rating/joules/ft-pounds/hp does the fuse need to be? Is it located by the computer hook-up area in the front of the quad?

Dan

[cdrookie]

dan,

when you put the trans in 5th gear(key/kill switch on or off doesn't matter) you push it to see if the motor will turn over. if it turns over it isn't locked up. you could put it in first gear but the tires wouldn't turn just slide. you could put it in any gear, but it's easier on the people pushing, if it's in fifth gear. you don't have to remove the spark plug to do this but it would be easier for the engine to turn over if there's no compression(cause it's all blowing out the plug hole).

cannondale27's advice is great. the fuse should say on it what it is. i'm not sure where it's at either. don't think it's up by the ecu though. i'd say it'd be down by the fuel pump. guess you could follow the fuel pump wires till you find it. good luck.

[speed2424]

The fuse & fuse holder on my 03 speed in just under the headlight on the left side.You have access to it without removing anything.The fuse is concealed inside it's black plastic holder to keep it weather tight.The fuse is a yellow, 20 amp automotive type fuse.I hope this helps.

[daericks]

My fuse location is the same as yours! I'm glad there is at least SOME consistency with these things. Oh, the fuse was not the issue. I did notice that if I turn the key all the way to the right (lights on position) that the lights do not power up, even with the battery fully charged. On to the next test tomorrow night!

[Derno24]

There is definitely a loose connection somewhere. Good luck.

[tjusa]

my o3 cannibal did same thing as you are saying ! do u have the little battery if so throw it away !!!!!!!!! it will hold a charge but not enough to run the bike !! change plug and check all connection THREE TIMES!!!!!!!! then get someone to hook it to D&M for ya i bet your settings are off too, me and maz been fooling with mine and i think it we finaly got it to were im not fouling plugs every time i ride it . Main thing is check connections these bike need ever amp they can to run rite. then take it to the desert and have maz and scott check it for ya next month !! Thomez ya the first one ya tear apart is always the worst but after that no problem . always nice to do someone eles's first that way when u have extra parts you know next time were they go LOL j/k derno . i think them were from lerics any way

[daericks]

IF the plug is fouled, wouldn't it still turn over? In other words, first try to get the thing to crank, then if it doesn't work, change the plug. Does that make sense?

Also, i have the factory battery that came in it. It was pulled right from the crate and seems to hold a charge just fine. How do I know if it is the 'little' one? I'll start the electrical wire wiggle this weekend. I hope to have time to do it anyway. My buddies and I are going to Phoenix International tomorrow to watch some Indy, sprints, etc. I've never seen that stuff before but it sounds like a good time.

Let me know if you have any other ideas!

[NRath]

QUOTE

Originally posted by tjusa
do u have the little battery if so throw  it away

That's a little excessive, I think. Myself and many others have had no problems with the stock battery. Mine's been running strong for almost 2 years(I expect it's near the end of it's life, though). I've never used a battery tender, nor should a person have to.

If this quad were mine, I'd be checking for electrical stuff first. I'd skip the test light and buy a voltmeter first. Sears carries a decent one for about $30. You'll find it far more useful than a test light and will perform all the same functions and then some. It sounds like there may be more than one problem since the quad went from running(albeit poorly) to doing nothing- that's what you said right- absolutely nothing. If the lights won't come on, I'd be checking the key switch first to see if the power is getting through there. This would be done under the computer tray. Get to the wires by going in between the A-arms by the steering stem. They're all zip tied together up under there. Pop apart the bullet connectors, check for voltage into the switch. If good, check for voltage coming out of the switch. After you check, apply dielectric grease, reconnect the connectors, and electrical tape around them individually. If they aren't the problem now, they never will be. That's just a place to start. If that check is good, you've got power to the ecu. If that's the case the lights should be working, unless the bulbs are broken/blown. The bulbs in mine have broke, but you can use your handy dandy voltmeter to see if you have power to them. You may need more detail on doing those checks, if so let us know, it's super simple. The next step would be to check the run/stop switch. If that's good, there's always another step. Let us know when you get there.

This post got longer than expected! And I've only just begun.

[NRath]

A correction to something I've read-

The minimum voltage at which the ecu will operate is 11.5 volts.

A strong battery should read 12.5 volts or higher. As the battery starts to go lower than 12.5, you should know that the time to buy a new battery is coming near. It will continue to start and run the machine, but it's on it's last leg.