I would like a definitive write up with pictures of how to go about correcting this problem starting from step one, "removing the epoxy", etc....
Sorry to cause all the trouble BUT, it seems that I learned something in the process, so no regrets... It's just a shame that it took a thread like this to suck this information out of some of the "experts".... sigh...
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I'm not throwing blows or anything, But I believe this right up has been done years ago, I think it was before you were here? C27 had some pics posted of what/where to take it apart and it was at that time when I did mine. A search may bring it up,or it may have been so long that its lost. Either way I'm sure some one would love to post some pics and do a step by step. If I had a pump housing I'd do but don't think I have an extra one?
The Definitive Oil Capacity Thread!
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Canniboomer
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Yep, that would be a good thing to resurrect. Some of the guys are enroute to a good time in Ohio by now, so it may be a very quiet weekend here. I wish we were all going.
You know James,.... I'm quite sure I had said the dipsticks are junk or crap or something like that,....and it was probably something much too harsh, and not fair to Cannondale!, LOL. But with so many machines, and noticing some varying ratios of frame oil vs. motor oil when you shut them off, I gave up on even trying to read the dipsticks. I would usually overfill some units anyway when doing the "fill it, run it, oops too low on stick, add more, repeat, etc".
Still, I could never bring myself to totally castrate a genuine Cannondale dipstick! That would be unholy. I only circumcize them.
You know James,.... I'm quite sure I had said the dipsticks are junk or crap or something like that,....and it was probably something much too harsh, and not fair to Cannondale!, LOL. But with so many machines, and noticing some varying ratios of frame oil vs. motor oil when you shut them off, I gave up on even trying to read the dipsticks. I would usually overfill some units anyway when doing the "fill it, run it, oops too low on stick, add more, repeat, etc".
Still, I could never bring myself to totally castrate a genuine Cannondale dipstick! That would be unholy. I only circumcize them.
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thedeatons
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The issues I had with the dipstick wasnt the stick it was the frame. The hole that the stick went down into would wipe oil onto the stick from the edge . Telling it was half full even if the frame was empty. No big deal just ignore the stick and visually check the fluid. A tranny fill plug works as well. I have the pics taken already for another write up. When I get back I will do a post. Its only a 20 minute job to rebuild the pumps but the pain is dealing with the plugs. I never found a source for the new ones soI had to reuse the originals.
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thedeatons
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Hey guys... Just wanted to mention that we had another hydrolocking issue this weekend.... Also wanted to quote Boomer's test of how much oil the sump can hold from the checkball thread:
???????OK,...... with the crank down, and oil added directly to the sump, here are some findings you guys may find interesting:
At 1.0 quart -- oil is just about midway up the crank.
At 1.5 quart -- oil is up to the bottom of the sleeve, but still well below the rings.
At 1.7 quart, oil is wetting over the rings to the brim of the piston at the lowest stroke.
At 2.0 quart, oil is a full 1" above the piston at the lowest stroke, and within 1-3/4" of the head.???????
Most of us agree that you cannot get every drop of oil out of the frame, engine, oil lines, etc during an oil change, even with tipping the quad on its side. That being said, it is safe to say that there will be about .2 qts left in the engine/frame/lines somewhere.
Boomer said add 1.7 qts and oil is spilling over the top of the rings at BDC. So if you added 1.5 qts like the manual said and you still had .2 qts in the engine/frame/lines somewhere, you would have an overfill condition (1.5 + .2 = 1.7qts)... Agreed?
This leads me to believe that the maximum you can fill during a routine oil change is 1.3qts, so your addition of the leftover .2qts would equal 1.5qts total, which Boomer said was right at the bottom of the sleeve.
Do you guys agree?
No flaming, let's try and make this informative and keep our emotions in check. I am trying to be logical here.....
???????OK,...... with the crank down, and oil added directly to the sump, here are some findings you guys may find interesting:
At 1.0 quart -- oil is just about midway up the crank.
At 1.5 quart -- oil is up to the bottom of the sleeve, but still well below the rings.
At 1.7 quart, oil is wetting over the rings to the brim of the piston at the lowest stroke.
At 2.0 quart, oil is a full 1" above the piston at the lowest stroke, and within 1-3/4" of the head.???????
Most of us agree that you cannot get every drop of oil out of the frame, engine, oil lines, etc during an oil change, even with tipping the quad on its side. That being said, it is safe to say that there will be about .2 qts left in the engine/frame/lines somewhere.
Boomer said add 1.7 qts and oil is spilling over the top of the rings at BDC. So if you added 1.5 qts like the manual said and you still had .2 qts in the engine/frame/lines somewhere, you would have an overfill condition (1.5 + .2 = 1.7qts)... Agreed?
This leads me to believe that the maximum you can fill during a routine oil change is 1.3qts, so your addition of the leftover .2qts would equal 1.5qts total, which Boomer said was right at the bottom of the sleeve.
Do you guys agree?
No flaming, let's try and make this informative and keep our emotions in check. I am trying to be logical here.....
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Canniboomer
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
...actually not agreed, since that oil was poured directly into the motor to get the level estimates. And of course when you add oil, you do not expect ALL of it to go directly into the sump -- and that seepage should happen very slowly. But the above experiment will give you some clue as of what to expect, eventually after long storage. I would suspect a badly leaking checkball for any Hydrolock to happen in a weekend, or a warn balance-shaft where oil seeps through the oil pumpblock or filter base more quickly than normal.
I guess it would be a good idea to drain the motor-section from any long-sitting machine, and pour that same volume of oil back into the frame where it belongs. You might also have to wait a while for any oil that may be sitting over the rings to leak back down. And the motor will be easier to turn-over anyway, with less oil in the sump.
I guess it would be a good idea to drain the motor-section from any long-sitting machine, and pour that same volume of oil back into the frame where it belongs. You might also have to wait a while for any oil that may be sitting over the rings to leak back down. And the motor will be easier to turn-over anyway, with less oil in the sump.
lol...some dogs just won't die.
This is so easy I am baffled why it seems so hard. Just check your oil as you add it. Dump in 1qt, start the motor up and see the level. Add as needed. I look to see if there is a good stream of oil running through the frame. I then check the dipstick to see the level its at. Add as needed.
Deaton, why you are stuck on making an exact amount to add? Evenyone is different on how they change their oil, some get more oil out, some less. Rule of thumb is check the level and add as needed.
This is so easy I am baffled why it seems so hard. Just check your oil as you add it. Dump in 1qt, start the motor up and see the level. Add as needed. I look to see if there is a good stream of oil running through the frame. I then check the dipstick to see the level its at. Add as needed.
Deaton, why you are stuck on making an exact amount to add? Evenyone is different on how they change their oil, some get more oil out, some less. Rule of thumb is check the level and add as needed.
You know if you dont put any oil in it should never hydrolock. Why dont you try that and let us know how it work out for ya? Then you can come post up how your group never has any problems with zero quarts and everyone should do it.
I wish you would get on with the definative tire pressure thread so we can argue about 3.6 psi is better than 2.4 psi.
By the way Im mockin everybody including myself here. Mock mock mock. .....and Happyboy your still a &**$#@# until further notice.
I wish you would get on with the definative tire pressure thread so we can argue about 3.6 psi is better than 2.4 psi.
By the way Im mockin everybody including myself here. Mock mock mock. .....and Happyboy your still a &**$#@# until further notice.
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jesshamner
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