Oil Level on dipstick

[wistech]

QUOTE (arcsum68 @ Nov 13 2008, 02:45 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Is this still when the quad is running, or just warm that you use this method?

I will check for a crack asap.

Just after running.

[MX Quad Dad]

QUOTE (Wistech @ Nov 13 2008, 03:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

l or the stator spacer is the wrong on and crushing it.

I'm taking it you are talking about the two differant seals? Maybe not.

Anyway I was thinking if he was useing the wider seal in place of the thinner one and lubeing the outside of the seal to install it, with the end of seal making contact with the crank, the seal may start to spin in the case. I had this happen on a differant application and I think it might be possible in this one.

[wistech]

It kind of depends on the case you have . The older cases were not capable of using the thick seal or changing them from the outside. But you may have one that has been machined to do so. You can easily tell if the seal is to wide as it will be ground up on the end if run that way. If you run the thin seals in a case made for the wide one make sure its in far enough to get over the lip of the crank snout. Ive found an engine where someone put 2 thin seals in but I think they will be to thick and need to be thinned up.
Anywho you can easily pressure test the case after the seal instal by hooking up REGULATED 5 psi are pressure to the breather hose and squirting soapy water on the end of the crank and case . Its a standard dale practice that every builder should have been doing for years before sticking the engine back in the chassis.

[MX Quad Dad]

That makes my ideal not possible.

I have never replaced my seal (thin one) from the outside, so I didn't know it was not possible to remove from the outside.

after I had a seal spin, I tend to lube the outside with a thin layer of silicone. they slide in nice and then the silicone sets up (me being over parinoid over one bad experance)

[cannondale27]

Nobody said you couldn't replace the seal from outside. I have done it more than once when wanting to leave bottom end intact. Wistech's pressure testing is really a the key here. Is one case where seal will pass test and still leak will let you know why. It's a very small amount either way though. Hoping its not cracked case.

[MX Quad Dad]

QUOTE (cannondale27 @ Nov 13 2008, 08:07 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Nobody said you couldn't replace the seal from outside. I have done it more than once when wanting to leave bottom end intact. Wistech's pressure testing is really a the key here. Is one case where seal will pass test and still leak will let you know why. It's a very small amount either way though. Hoping its not cracked case.

OK; now I'm getting a little confused. I have the cases that require the thinner seal and in wisetech's last post here, the second sentence (I changed to red) says I can't use the thicker seal (which I knew) or change them from the outside. If this is true would it be wise to have the case machined to accept the thicker seal and so the seal can be changed from the outside. I haven't had a seal issue so it may be a waist of time and money?????

QUOTE

It kind of depends on the case you have . The older cases were not capable of using the thick seal or changing them from the outside. But you may have one that has been machined to do so. You can easily tell if the seal is to wide as it will be ground up on the end if run that way. If you run the thin seals in a case made for the wide one make sure its in far enough to get over the lip of the crank snout. Ive found an engine where someone put 2 thin seals in but I think they will be to thick and need to be thinned up.
Anywho you can easily pressure test the case after the seal instal by hooking up REGULATED 5 psi are pressure to the breather hose and squirting soapy water on the end of the crank and case . Its a standard dale practice that every builder should have been doing for years before sticking the engine back in the chassis.

QUOTE

[cannondale27]

Maybe he is talking about the case with the old bronze bearing?I have never dealt with one of those but all others are easily replaced from outside.

[wistech]

I wouldnt go out of my way to machine a case just to have the seal replaceable from the outside. On the old cases which had to be cut deeper for the newer style crank bearing it was just a few minutes extra cutting to get it done as long as it was set up in the milling machine. Come to think of it I dont recall ever having a crank seal leak. Which is kind of why I think the case is cracked .

[arcsum68]

QUOTE (Wistech @ Nov 14 2008, 09:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Which is kind of why I think the case is cracked .

Booooooooooo!!!

[MX Quad Dad]

QUOTE (Wistech @ Nov 15 2008, 12:52 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I wouldnt go out of my way to machine a case just to have the seal replaceable from the outside. On the old cases which had to be cut deeper for the newer style crank bearing it was just a few minutes extra cutting to get it done as long as it was set up in the milling machine. Come to think of it I dont recall ever having a crank seal leak. Which is kind of why I think the case is cracked .

Thanks for the info. I know I'm going to have to rebuild my Speed one of these days. and figure I would like to do all the nessesities(sp?). but don't want to waste time or money.

I'm sorry to hear he might be more likely to have a cracked case. The only thing else I can think of is if he bought it used and someone rebuilt it and nicked the crank in the area the seal rides. I know it would be difficult to inspect it when it is in the case

Also, I thought there were two differant crank halfs for the flywheel side? But did that just affect the flywheel and started?

and it seems to me I heard something were someone found that the seal lip was actualy to far out and riding at the top of the taper