Impeller and Cover

Message

Crazie · #11 Post by **Crazie** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 6:13 pm

Canniboomer,

Can you give me the part number on the tube you have? Any other identification numbers would work also. I found their website, but the closest match I find to what you say is E43.

peterock · #12 Post by **peterock** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 6:56 pm

You could try some Yamabond 6b as well. Any yamaha dealer would have it. I have yet to see that stuff fail or not work.

Crazie · #13 Post by **Crazie** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 7:07 pm

I may pick some up just in case. Thanks for the info!

cannondale27 · #14 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 9:17 pm

Greybond is not silicone it is alot thinner.I hate that stuff.Never had a leak with plain old RTV silicone black stuff.Can even make nice valvecover gaskets with it.

Canniboomer · #15 Post by **Canniboomer** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 9:43 pm

...OK, yep I see I used the wrong wording........ I normally use the Permatex Motoseal 1 Ultimate Grey, and had just referred to it as "graybond" for short. But, it is most definitely silicone. I will stop referring to it as graybond.

But with the ATV leaned on the left side, and a slight hump to the filled area, it still leaked again. Like others using good silicones, I have NEVER had any issue with the Permatex Ultimate Grey, and it is rated the highest for glycols. But just beware that trying to fill that void entirely with these excellent silicones might not work -- that gap is quite deep and wide, and the plug may need to cure as stiffly as the rubber it is replacing.

The Wacker stuff is really a totally different animal, but is still technically an RTV silicone. I managed to dollop out a small glob for Crazie in a contact lens cup. Hopefully it arrives fresh.

Crazie · #16 Post by **Crazie** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 9:46 pm

I should have all my parts Monday or Tues. What do you guys do to pressure test? Just seal it and use a air compressor?

Honestly, I'm not even sure I'd be able to tell because the leak was so tiny. Also, it leaked more when the engine was just shut off and cooling or at idle than it would when running.

cannondale27 · #17 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:11 pm

If your compressor has a regulator just turn it down to 5 lbs block off all the holes using the hoses and put the 5lbs to the bleeder hose. I just screw a barbed fitting into end of air gun or could make up a hose setup. Then just use soapy water to look for leaks. If you want you can use a valve and another guage to see if it holds pressure but if no bubbles you should be good. Can test engine same way. Oh and some of the coolant bottles were known to leak also. Either from cap or a crack. Hose clamp just snugly fit around cap ensures better fit of threads.

Crazie · #18 Post by **Crazie** » Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:08 pm

Thanks, I'll give it a pressure test once it's buttoned back up.

NRath · #19 Post by **NRath** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 5:13 pm

Windex is also a very good leak detector and it comes in a handy spay bottle.

wistech · #20 Post by **wistech** » Mon Dec 08, 2008 7:52 pm

The wacker silicone has changed its number and designation to Elastosil A 442 It is a silicone rubber sealant. You can get it at any international dealer or ford dealer. The international number for the large caulk tube is 1830856C1
It does cost a lot for you guys on the street . I get the small tubes with certain gasket kits and give them away when I can but have not had to many projects as of late so you will have to buy it. I know the price on it has doubled in the last few years.
I will try to find out if there is a aftermarket version available.