My coolant has been slowly leaking forever. No white smoke, no coolant in the oil, just dribbling down the head very slowly (at first it looked like it was coming from the head gasket, but it was just collecting in that area). Until now, I just refilled it when necessary. Since I've been dealing with the flywheel issues, I decided today to give her a good bath and remove the impeller cover (what a freaking PITA that was).
So, here' s a few pics of it...I'm not sure if they will show anything, but figured I'd try to get a 2nd (or 3rd, 4th, etc.) set of eyes to check it out.
The inlet and outlet to the overflow were both corroded slightly. I used a dremel and wire wheel to remove the corrosion. I have the aluminum impeller and valve cover, so I'm guessing that was just the stock impeller cover...and what I saw was residual from way back when.
Anyways, if anyone sees anything (good or bad) please let me know. The o-ring seemed fine, so I'm not sure where the leak was coming from...any ideas?
Here's a pic of the cover..seems to be a tiny bit of corrosion on the upper right corner in the pic??
[attachment=7655:impeller_cover.jpg]
Up next is a few shots of the impeller (kinda hard to get a good shot of it).
[attachment=7656:impeller1.jpg]
[attachment=7657:impeller2.jpg]
[attachment=7658:impeller3.jpg]
Impeller and Cover
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thedeatons
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
May have been coming from the weep hole on the underside of the head, behind that cover.
Almost looks like your impeller is carving a groover in the cover. That is bad.
Make sure you oversize the self bleeding hole in the cover. Use the largest drill bit you feel comfortable with. Go slow, be careful.
Otherwise looks fine.
Almost looks like your impeller is carving a groover in the cover. That is bad.
Make sure you oversize the self bleeding hole in the cover. Use the largest drill bit you feel comfortable with. Go slow, be careful.
Otherwise looks fine.
Make sure that the valve cover lines up even with the head flat on the sealing surface. Use a good high quality silicone sealer in that area where the valve cover meets the head. Drill out that nipple a little bigger to make sure it is clear. Make sure to use a copper washer on the bolt near where the nipple is and a little sealer helps too.
You can pressurise the cooling system when you are done to check your work.
I am sure you will get more suggestions...
Ray
You can pressurise the cooling system when you are done to check your work.
I am sure you will get more suggestions...
Ray
thedeatons,
The self bleeding hole you refer to is the line that runs to the overflow reservoir correct? Which part do I drill?
Another question (as I can see better in the pics than on the quad). Is the circled area in this pic a pinched valve cover gasket? I'm not getting oil in my coolant (or vise-versa) so I'm guessing it's ok?
The self bleeding hole you refer to is the line that runs to the overflow reservoir correct? Which part do I drill?
Another question (as I can see better in the pics than on the quad). Is the circled area in this pic a pinched valve cover gasket? I'm not getting oil in my coolant (or vise-versa) so I'm guessing it's ok?
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cannondale27
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
No it's not pinched but part is missing. Just put a big dab of silicone there and other one when you put cover back on.T hin film of silicone on installed o-ring. I would change your water pump seal at this point. Just remove the Impellar (Lefthand thread) Very carefully drill a small hole into the seal and thread a wood screw into seal. Pull it out. Lube outside of new seal with silicone and push it in using a deepwell socket. Spring on seal goes outward. Otherwise to remove valve cover and cam for seal replacement you have to remove motor. This way works pretty easy and saves time for sure. For impellar get a thinner washer. Canniboomer has some. Or just grind or file a little off each blade.
You drill the nipple the resevoir hose goes to 1/8" drill is plenty.
You drill the nipple the resevoir hose goes to 1/8" drill is plenty.
Thanks for the info guys! I'm not sure if I have a spare seal or not, so I may have to get one added on to my current order (along with the thinner washer....if I don't have one laying around).
Definitely don't want to drop the motor, although I almost did when I got the top right bolt on the impeller cover. I really need a 6mm ratcheting wrench now...lol.
Definitely don't want to drop the motor, although I almost did when I got the top right bolt on the impeller cover. I really need a 6mm ratcheting wrench now...lol.
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cannondale27
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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Canniboomer
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
...more about that right-side valvecover gasket nub:
I just recently had an ATV in here like that,....... and refilling with normal graybond silicone, and allowing it to pre-dry in that void was still not firm enough to prevent the leaking. This one was from a Vintage valvecover, and the builder had not trimmed the new gasket to fit the narrower slot correctly. When I removed the cover to check for leaks, that same nub appeared to have sheared off and was gone --
I later found it in the coolant that was drained. Anyway, normal silicone did not work on my first fix attempt, even after carefully drying and filling the void and allowing it to firm up -- and then applying a bit more at the nub areas before adding the cover. Then?,....on try #2, pre-bonding a custom-cut rubber piece into the void, plus the same procedure to add the cover back on -- also did not work! Hot coolant under pressure had managed to still push through after a couple of heat cycles.
Finally?......I used just a dab of that super-tacky Wacker 44 stuff -- the same specialized hydro-curing paste that Wistech had tried years ago for sound-deadening of the sidecover and clutchcover. It is the pricey stuff used for pre-gooping of oil pans, from Ford and International as I recall. After allowing to cure for 24 hours, that stuff filled the void much more firmly than normal silicone. Also, it sticks so permanently that it cannot be over-compressed, sheared away, or pushed around. You just might have to go to that extent.
But where do you get it quickly?....I only have part of a single caulk tube remaining, and cannot do a send-out.
I just recently had an ATV in here like that,....... and refilling with normal graybond silicone, and allowing it to pre-dry in that void was still not firm enough to prevent the leaking. This one was from a Vintage valvecover, and the builder had not trimmed the new gasket to fit the narrower slot correctly. When I removed the cover to check for leaks, that same nub appeared to have sheared off and was gone --
I later found it in the coolant that was drained. Anyway, normal silicone did not work on my first fix attempt, even after carefully drying and filling the void and allowing it to firm up -- and then applying a bit more at the nub areas before adding the cover. Then?,....on try #2, pre-bonding a custom-cut rubber piece into the void, plus the same procedure to add the cover back on -- also did not work! Hot coolant under pressure had managed to still push through after a couple of heat cycles.
Finally?......I used just a dab of that super-tacky Wacker 44 stuff -- the same specialized hydro-curing paste that Wistech had tried years ago for sound-deadening of the sidecover and clutchcover. It is the pricey stuff used for pre-gooping of oil pans, from Ford and International as I recall. After allowing to cure for 24 hours, that stuff filled the void much more firmly than normal silicone. Also, it sticks so permanently that it cannot be over-compressed, sheared away, or pushed around. You just might have to go to that extent.
But where do you get it quickly?....I only have part of a single caulk tube remaining, and cannot do a send-out.
When I first looked at it, I thought that may be the problem spot. After suggestions here I see that the top right bolt (next to the overflow outlet) didn't have a brass washer. So I'm figuring one or the other, if not both, are suspect.
I'll see what I can do to find the sealant you're talking about Canniboomer.
No idea where you got yours, eh? I'm good with google, so I'll post up if I find it.
I'll see what I can do to find the sealant you're talking about Canniboomer.
No idea where you got yours, eh? I'm good with google, so I'll post up if I find it.
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Canniboomer
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Yep give me a call. I have all of that misc, and can add anything to your order still today. I have a nifty 5mm bonded seal that is working great for the top-right bolt also. And you will want to use socket-head capscrews for the 2 upper cover bolts, and a 4mm ball-hex key to make installs and removals MUCH easier and fast. I only use hard steel flangeheads up there, since stainless bolts round out too easily at the tight wrench angle, and the stainless bolts will seize to the head more. You can get the cover on or off in 5 minutes with these alternate bolts... less than $1 each and good to replace them each time.