Gear oil/Motor oil

[UpsMan]

My ***. You must like getting oil all over the place.

[cannondale27]

I do it same way Roger.I do put a hose on the upper right one.Open them all up and go do something else for awhile.Once all done a shot of BrakeClean cleans up any spilled oil from the right one and in skid.

[thedeatons]

Hey Trouble, no offense intended here, but you may want to do some actual research before deciding that synthetics are inferior to petroleum based oil.

I did MONTHS worth of research over ten years ago using a site called bobistheoildropserver.com (now bobistheoilguy.com). The ONLY research that will tell you anything is rigorous oil analysis using an independent provider at different oil intervals using different oils. This will tell you which oils break down at which interval.

Jiffy Lube and other companies (who are gearing their marketting towards getting in your wallet) tell you to change oil every 3k miles. That is because they use cheap petroleum based oil, and those oils require changing at 3k miles. They will NOT change their mileage claims for synthetic, because that would mean you come in and pay them less often. After coming to this simple understanding I began doing testing on oils and intervals.

I had a 1995 Toyota Tacoma at the time, and found that Mobil 1 synthetic oil (mineral oil based) could go 10,000 miles without breakdown of the oil (using oil analysis). The analysis is done with new oil, and oil sent in at your specified interval, that way the difference is shown, and they provide detailed charts telling what molecules (and how) are showing signs of wear in the oil. Back then the limiting factor was the oil filter, which could only be used to 5k miles. Mobil 1/Wix/Purolater were the best filter medias then (Fram was worst), known after extensive website filtration tests sponsored by site users. Now Mobil 1 has an extended drain interval filter which is rated to 7500 miles. For many years I swapped just the filter at 5k then topped off the fluid. Now I simply run the extended drain filter until I change the oil.

I sold the Tacoma years ago, but my 2002 Mitsubishi Lancer has 172k miles on it. Doing extended drain intervals on it since 40k miles with Mobil 1. The engine has never hiccuped, never had a problem, it just goes. It is a 2.0L 4 cylinder, and we run it hard. It pulls our 3 place quad trailer all around without a problem. Considering the money I have saved, time I have saved, and extra protection I have given the car, I am very happy.

On another note, European Car did hp tests years ago on the editor's BMW. He dyno'd the car with petroleum fluids in his engine, tranny, and differential. Then he drained the oils at the dyno facility, and replaced them with synthetics throughout. He gained 6hp on the same dyno, within hours of the first run.

I have owned MANY sportbikes over the years, and you can always tell when the switch is made to synthetic oils. Shifts are MUCH smoother, and the notchy feel is removed. Come to think of it, I installed a short shifter on my Mitsubishi Lancer at 50k miles. The shifter's leverage ratio was changed so much that I could not shift to each gear without a terrible notchy feeling. i was pretty bummed out about that. So, I switched to Red Line transmission fluid in an attempt to cure the problem. Within 100 miles the notchy shifting was gone, and this Lancer's tranny is one of the smoothest I have ever driven, hands down.

You can also do some research on how many miles diesel trucks go on Rotella T synthetic oil. That will blow your mind. Mine goes 10k miles, incidentally, which is nothing compared to theirs.

Bottom line, petroleum oil is a product from your grandfather's generation. Ask yourself whether you are willing to drive a Model T around. Then walk out to your Porsche or Corvette and see what they recommend on the oil fill cap.... Mobil 1, full synthetic. They could have put a GM oil on the cap so you have to visit the dealer all the time, but instead they chose to list an oil you can buy at Wal Mart. Now ask yourself why they did that. Any idea what the oil drain intervals are on a Porsche Boxster using Mobil 1? Try 12k miles....

[UpsMan]

Deatons, I go 10,000 between oil changes using regular oil....seems to be working.........You don't even want to know how long ups trucks go between changes, and I assure you we don't use sythetic. Actually, we don't ever change the oil. Most of the trucks leak so much it would be silly. LOL

[kevin444]

funny thing is if you got an engine that's leaking oil, and feeding it. to some extent it always has a good portion of clean oil. thats just what i told my self when i was younger and fed the old ram charger 2qts of oil and 2qts of tranny fluid a week, and that would just keep in happy! they don't make'em like they used to though....my 318 was in deed ram tough!

sorry to ramble.....

[MX Quad Dad]

Amsoil has a filter they rate for 25000 miles or once a year, so I change my oil and filter once a year

[nitroboy]

i use either mobil 1 and dextron synthetic trans fluild (ATF) or i use kawasaki's full synthetic and dextron synthetic ATF i use to use the kawi oil cuz i got a heck of a discount on it plus it use to be kawi green looked like i was pouring antifreeze in my engine plus you diffently knew when yur oil was dirty, very rarely will anyone let me ride ther stuff because i ride things that hard !!, and im yet to have an engine blow up useing this oil

[MX Quad Dad]

I know this is an old thread and an over debated topic but, I have done a bit of digging since I first heard some oils that claim 100% synthetic aren't. Most of what I read was about the base stock. they seem to be classified like GROUP I, GROUP II, GROUP III, GROUP IV and GROUP V. with Group I being the cheapest in cost. GROUP V, (ester based) is from what I can tell is the only one that will hold up in jet engines and is recomended for racing applacation. the group IV is the most common sold in stores. it has many good qualities, I know Amsoil uses this base stock on at least some of their oils and I know I have seen the "ESTER" in some of their ads, but can't seem to find any proof one way or the other (for any oils for that matter) GROUP III is were it gets JINKY, from what I can tell it is a petroleum base stock that goes thru a proccess called Hydroisomerized and then is allowed to be called 100% syntheic

This all just makes things more confusing. if you are a racer or even neglect doing oil changes at recomended intervals, I might suggest looking for an oil that will state they use the Group V and I would want to have some sort of comfrimation since this will most likely cost a bit more $'s. Otherwise if you have been having good luck with what you have been useing, keep useing it, just watch the API ratings because I have seen them change. and they don't put a big red arrow pointing to them to let you know they changed

[MX Quad Dad]

OH yeah forgot to mention, I have not found a way to confirm who uses which group of base stock. I have heard or read that some redline and maxima use the group V but every time Ive been to a shop I forget to read the bottle to see if it is on the lable.

Maybe some people that have a bottle laying around can look. I believe you would be looking for the GROUP V BASE STOCK or ESTERS