Oil leak woes

Q&A about routine maintenance.
Message
Author
arcsum68
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#21 Post by arcsum68 »

QUOTE (cannondale27 @ Aug 26 2009, 08:26 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yes it should be easy to weld.I suggested draining coolant because welder might be more comfortable welding it totally upside down.May also want to unplug ECU and Regulator.


Well, the welder fell through. He says it will be contaminated and wont hold. I got it pretty clean, but everytime I move the quad, oil comes out from somewhere. He wont do it without hot dipping it first. I have another guy, but he says it needs to be REALLY clean, and I dont know that I can get it REALLY clean. Gonna talk to him some more. I have also ordered some stuff that boomer suggested would work.

wistech
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#22 Post by wistech »

It can't be welded with oil in it. Tip the quad back on the grab bar. Carefully dremel out a small valley where the crack is (small). Roughen up the surface an inch around the crack. Use a vaccum cleaner or whatever to create a negative pressure in the breather hose. Hose down with brake clean one last time so the crack has no contaminants. Fill in the valley and only the valley with 2 stage epoxy of your chioce. Then after it has cured smear a quarter inch layer of rubberized silicone over the affected area and let cure. 1 day.
Then be sure to bend the center down on you skid plate engine cradle so its not appling pressure to the area anymore. Do the engine cradle rubber pad update I've been preaching since day one. Drian engine of brake clean and the rest of the oil and refill. Ride until the engine needs to come out and then have it welded.

arcsum68
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#23 Post by arcsum68 »

QUOTE (Wistech @ Aug 27 2009, 08:47 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
It cant be welded with oil in it. TIp the quad back on the grab bar. Carefully dremel out a small valley wher ethe crack is (small) . Roughen up the surface an inch around the crack. Use a vaccum cleaner or whatever to create a negative pressure in the breather hose. Hose down with brake clean one last time so the crack has no contaminants. Fill in the valley and only the valley with 2 stage epoxy of your chioce. Then after it has cured smear a quarter inch layer of rubberized silicone over the affected area and let cure. 1 day.
Then be sure to bend the center down on you skid plate engine cradle so its not appling pressure to the area anymore. Do the engine cradle rubber pad update Ive been preaching since day one . Drian engine of brake clean and the rest of the oil and refill. Ride until the engine needs to come out and then have it welded .


Engine cradle rubber pad update?

Sounds complicated, do I just get some pond liner and put it in there?

arcsum68
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#24 Post by arcsum68 »

Hey Wistech, I was actually going to use that Wacker t44 stuff you used on your clutch cover to make it quieter, is that still holding up in there?

wistech
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#25 Post by wistech »

When applied to a clean and I mean clean oil free surface it will hold forever. Just like anything failures of silicone, paint or whatever is caused by lack of surface prep. Wipeing a surface off with an oily rag and calling if good usually results in lack of adhesion and failure of the process. It just seems like most who have problems just don't seem to get it so I feel I must explain it even if a simple procedure.

If you look at the crack you can see where the vibration and rubbing of the engine cradle has worn the weld down and caused the crack. A thin sheet of rubber (1/8" thick) is the best protection from keeping the 2 parts from rubbing. If you bottomed the quad on something the skid plate usually gets bent up to where it will contact the case. Smack it back down and get something in between there and you will be alright. A thick fully cured layer of the wacker silicone rubber will work as well.

arcsum68
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#26 Post by arcsum68 »

QUOTE (Wistech @ Aug 28 2009, 03:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
When applied to a clean and I mean clean oil free surface it will hold forever. Just like anything failures of silicone, paint or whatever is caused by lack of surface prep. Wipeing a surface off with an oily rag and calling if good usually results in lack of adhesion and failure of the process. It just seems like most who have problems just don't seem to get it so I feel I must explain it even if a simple procedure.

If you look at the crack you can see where the vibration and rubbing of the engine cradle has worn the weld down and caused the crack. A thin sheet of rubber (1/8" thick) is the best protection from keeping the 2 parts from rubbing. If you bottomed the quad on something the skid plate usually gets bent up to where it will contact the case. Smack it back down and get something in between there and you will be alright. A thick fully cured layer of the wacker silicone rubber will work as well.


I appreciate the detail, I understood what you meant, but sometimes something simple can elude a person and cause issues.

arcsum68
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#27 Post by arcsum68 »

QUOTE (arcsum68 @ Aug 28 2009, 11:01 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I appreciate the detail, I understood what you meant, but sometimes something simple can elude a person and cause issues.


Ran strong for 3 days with the Wacker t44 in place, not a drop of oil leaking anywhere. I hope it sticks!

Post Reply