I think it is needed to stress that when going to the Dyno such as this weekend, that the clutches are tight, meaning springs and plates are in good shape.
I ended up spending unnecessary time since the Rekluse clutch I am running would not hold the load during the runs. Had 2 good runs, then it was all over the place without the ability to repeat the next run to finish the mapping process.
So, I think the Rekluse is a great trail riding setup and forgiving as heck when racing, I have very little armpump when done. But for higher HP motors and dyno purposes they slip too much, so it becomes a waste of time. Looks like mine will come in around a useable all purpose 50 hp by the time we get it done... so at least I am encouraged.
Thanks to C27 for the dyno tuning help, and a fun day at the dyno, missed the ride, but maybe the next time I will be able to join in. Good times....the steak was awesome too....LOL
It was nice to see everyone....always fun to be around other CDalers, stories are also fun to listen to! Looks like Wannablaze should have a great racing season next year, I'll be watching for the results.
Rekluse clutch and Dyno work
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cannondale27
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
I don't think it was the additive, I took the rekluse out, and there ws no sign of slippage on the plates, or the pressure plate. What is strange is the pressure plate has a wear pattern of the clutch pattern of the stepped pattern. Odd. I am dropping the oil anyway, the plates do not seem frictionless, is that a word?
Happyboy, are you running the 8 plate setup that Cdale recommended with the thicker plates? What shims do you have in there if you can remember. I would like to compare to see where the slip came from, but still do not think it was the oil. Also, when the final adjustment was made, it looks like there was not enough throw, in other words, it may be the thicker spring Rekluse said to use. You using the thicker spring?
Let me know so I can work thru this, I like the clutch, but my advise is to use the stock clutch, I did not feel a slip, when riding before I took it out, but the dyno definitely slipped it. That is why I do not think it was the additive.
Happyboy, are you running the 8 plate setup that Cdale recommended with the thicker plates? What shims do you have in there if you can remember. I would like to compare to see where the slip came from, but still do not think it was the oil. Also, when the final adjustment was made, it looks like there was not enough throw, in other words, it may be the thicker spring Rekluse said to use. You using the thicker spring?
Let me know so I can work thru this, I like the clutch, but my advise is to use the stock clutch, I did not feel a slip, when riding before I took it out, but the dyno definitely slipped it. That is why I do not think it was the additive.
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cannondale27
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
I am blaming the additive because if you remember you said you just put it in.The first two runs it didnt slip at all.Reason.It took a bit for additive to get between the plates.Also the rexcluse puts more pressure on faster clutch is spun well when going through the gears it worked for awhile before that even started slipping.I actually was very impressed by how accuratly I could duplicate the shift points when we were testing by going through the gears.
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cannondale27
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Yup and the lack of wear on the plates and frictions points even more to the additive being the cause.Normally when a clutch is slipping the steels are burned big time blue and black in color and frictions will be wore or even disintegrated.You might be able to save the frictions by using brakeclean and then putting them in a oven at 300deg for awhile to try and burn the stuff out.