Turbo Dale
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Sand_Blaster
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
QUOTE (claas900 @ Sep 5 2007, 12:03 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
umm never mind I guess they went under.
I don't know if this would be much help but KMS makes turbo's for the Honda 450r.
http://www.kmsperformance.com/index_files/trx450rparts.htm
The Garrett GT12 would be the best option. It can be water cooled, but if you are running a stand alone oil system, water cooling will not be needed.
The biggest hurdle to get over will be placement. I think there will be enough room between the back of the engine and the shock. But the upper shock cross member might be in the way.
Mount the turbo with the turbine housing to the right side. The downpipe will come out and require a sharp turn, but should be able to dump right into a slip on can with just a short piece of pipe. Unfortunetly, there might be too much turbulence with that sharp of a curve right into the downpipe and might increase lag or even cause resistance that will work against the exhaust vanes.
On the cold side, the air filter will be really close to the frame, and will likely require a pipe turning it backwards and mounting the filter behind the shock, where it will be extremely vernable to dirt. The cold side piping can run above the engine and between the headlights and steering stem. This will probably require flatening of the piping, but then it can go to and innercooler mounted in the front. Then the piping can run on the other side of the steering stem, and into the TB.
Doing all of this will allow you to still run the stock fuel tank. I am uncertain where to mount the remote oil rezzy, but it will probably be best in front of the fuel tank above the throttle body. The small fuel pump that would be required would be tied into the fuel pump circuit via a relay. There would also be a parallel switch so that you could continue pumping oil to cool the hot turbo after the bike was shut off.
Of course upgraded fuel lines would be needed, as well as an adjustable FPR that will need to be boost referenced. Otherwise tuning at part throttle when rolling into boost would be a nightmare. I am still unsure how hard it would be to tune part throttle issues that are going to vary as boost comes in at differnt throttle positions. My experience is with either speed density or MAF EFI which both reference an O2 sensor and the ECM maintains a constant AFR. Tuning EFI that doesn't use an O2 will be new to me.
I haven't measured the LSA of the cams, but maybe someone can chime in with that. I am guessing they are extremely tight to get the N/A power these engines make. That can be increased easily by simply retarding the intake cam slightly. Compression ratio is going to be another concern, and although I am not a fan of the squish turbulence that occurs with the piston being deep in the bore, that will probably be the only way to lower it enough. Even a 12cc dish will not be enough, and it would be hard to take that much out of a piston.
Not that I have thought about putting a turbo on a cannondale or anything. LOL
The biggest hurdle to get over will be placement. I think there will be enough room between the back of the engine and the shock. But the upper shock cross member might be in the way.
Mount the turbo with the turbine housing to the right side. The downpipe will come out and require a sharp turn, but should be able to dump right into a slip on can with just a short piece of pipe. Unfortunetly, there might be too much turbulence with that sharp of a curve right into the downpipe and might increase lag or even cause resistance that will work against the exhaust vanes.
On the cold side, the air filter will be really close to the frame, and will likely require a pipe turning it backwards and mounting the filter behind the shock, where it will be extremely vernable to dirt. The cold side piping can run above the engine and between the headlights and steering stem. This will probably require flatening of the piping, but then it can go to and innercooler mounted in the front. Then the piping can run on the other side of the steering stem, and into the TB.
Doing all of this will allow you to still run the stock fuel tank. I am uncertain where to mount the remote oil rezzy, but it will probably be best in front of the fuel tank above the throttle body. The small fuel pump that would be required would be tied into the fuel pump circuit via a relay. There would also be a parallel switch so that you could continue pumping oil to cool the hot turbo after the bike was shut off.
Of course upgraded fuel lines would be needed, as well as an adjustable FPR that will need to be boost referenced. Otherwise tuning at part throttle when rolling into boost would be a nightmare. I am still unsure how hard it would be to tune part throttle issues that are going to vary as boost comes in at differnt throttle positions. My experience is with either speed density or MAF EFI which both reference an O2 sensor and the ECM maintains a constant AFR. Tuning EFI that doesn't use an O2 will be new to me.
I haven't measured the LSA of the cams, but maybe someone can chime in with that. I am guessing they are extremely tight to get the N/A power these engines make. That can be increased easily by simply retarding the intake cam slightly. Compression ratio is going to be another concern, and although I am not a fan of the squish turbulence that occurs with the piston being deep in the bore, that will probably be the only way to lower it enough. Even a 12cc dish will not be enough, and it would be hard to take that much out of a piston.
Not that I have thought about putting a turbo on a cannondale or anything. LOL