Just got a dale

Message

NRath · #11 Post by **NRath** » Mon Feb 23, 2004 5:02 pm

Unfortunately, there are no real "signs of it starting" that'll save you. Once a bolt comes loose, it's on it's way out. And they usually don't come out peacefully! If you've bought a brand new quad, I'd tear into it immediately. If it's used, I still wouldn't waste much time, but you MAY be alright for a test ride or two. In either case, untreated, it's a timebomb.

If the $100 bucks doesn't hurt your pocket, go with the Stage 8, it's positively not going to let the bolts back out. My experience has been that an adequate job of Loc-tite will do the trick(i.e. the 100 bucks hurts my pocket!). I've ridden plenty on a Loctited engine and they've stayed tight- I've checked them a couple times. I'm about to put another one together and it'll be assembled with Loctite- no Stage 8.

That's my opinion any way! It's your call.
:usa

Mjollnir · #12 Post by **Mjollnir** » Mon Feb 23, 2004 7:03 pm

QUOTE

Originally posted by CowsBitePeople
what are some signs of it startin?

Well, it starts wth a real loud BANG. Then, about one millionth of a second later, your engine could be a boat anchor.

I'd say don't do anything beyond break-in without doing the upgrade. Don't forget the motor mount and coolant as well.

Marc

CowsBitePeople · #13 Post by **CowsBitePeople** » Tue Feb 24, 2004 3:19 pm

what does the motor mount one do? whats the coolant one?

EuroGOD · #14 Post by **EuroGOD** » Tue Feb 24, 2004 3:36 pm

The motor mount is a very important if you have a SSM engine case.
These engine cases are prone to cracking at any time, abused or not...
The SSM case can be identified by having the Cannondale name cast on the block on the RHS just above the front sprocket.

What the update consists of is a spacer, some washers and a long bolt.
It is placed between the front engine mounts, just behind the battery.
The long bolt then replaces the 2 bolts that pass through the engine cradle into the block.

Quite a few people are offering different versions of the kit, they all do the same basic function so the price will be the only factor.
If you are handy you could make your own....I turned one out in about 30 minutes on the lathe the other day.

A good tip for the next time you remove your battery:
Place some washers under the rear, engine side, of the battery box.
This will tilt the battery foward and stop it from rubbing against the engine...

USAMoto00 · #15 Post by **USAMoto00** » Tue Feb 24, 2004 10:23 pm

Switching coolant protects the internal engine components. The stock coolant doesn't prevent the corrosion and pitting of the aluminum parts as well as say: Engine Ice or Evans coolants.

thomez · #16 Post by **thomez** » Tue Feb 24, 2004 11:41 pm

The problem isn't with aluminum really but the magnesium valve cover. That is why an aluminum valve cover is a for sure fix and then you can run any coolant you want.

USAMoto00 · #17 Post by **USAMoto00** » Wed Feb 25, 2004 12:59 am

Good catch Thomez! I meant it protects the aluminum parts and keeps the magnesium ones from pitting.

jcmpunk · #18 Post by **jcmpunk** » Wed Feb 25, 2004 1:52 am

Hey,
That is great that you got a cdale! I have a question for you. Is it faster then your old yz250? I am asking because my friend has a bike like it, and I want to know if he will be impressed by the cdale if I get one!

CowsBitePeople · #19 Post by **CowsBitePeople** » Wed Feb 25, 2004 3:18 pm

i think it might be about even havent ridden the yz latly, ill get one of my friends on it and race the dale and update on it;)