What about liek that onepost said in another thread...to move the top of the rad. forward 1in?
Alos..those double row rads. for other quads and all won't work.
The tube inlets/exits are on oposide sides..were's the dale is both on 1 side.
The 6hr Falicon 468cc quad
QUOTE
Originally posted by Pro400EXC
What about liek that onepost said in another thread...to move the top of the rad. forward 1in?
Alos..those double row rads. for other quads and all won't work.
The tube inlets/exits are on oposide sides..were's the dale is both on 1 side.
What about liek that onepost said in another thread...to move the top of the rad. forward 1in?
Alos..those double row rads. for other quads and all won't work.
The tube inlets/exits are on oposide sides..were's the dale is both on 1 side.
Does't matter what side the inlets are on the raditors all do the same thing. Al you need to do is run the hose there. Which all of the other radiators do already. Case in point a z400 radiator hose runs across the front of the motor to the radiator.
Also a 250r radiator is both on the same side.
One other thing please write better. I had a hard time understanding your gibberish. Thank you and have a nice day!
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LapTraffic
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You guys are probably making this more complicated than you need to.
The radiator is not the best design, but i think it's more than suitable, even with the bigger motor.
The problem is not the size of the radiator or the motor, the problem is with the mud. A bigger radiator will clog just as easily as this small radiator without protection from the mud.
I race a lot in washington state and more often than not it's really muddy.
One of the first things I did was address the mud situation with my radiator.
Since that time Ive raced in some rediculously muddy conditions without mishap. At then end of the race my radiator was about 90% free of mud.
After this race [img]http://www.cannondaleriders.com/vbb/attachment.php?s=&postid=15060[/img] There was barely any mud on the radiator and none of it was packed in.
The trick is to build a cage in front of the radiator that allows for an air cavity between the radiator and the cage. Most radiator gaurds sit directly on the face of the radiator and while they protect the fins from damage they dont do much to prevent a crapload of mud from accumulating. once that gaurd is covered the radiator is essentially starved for airflow...
The cage I built stands off from the radiator about 4" at the top down to about 1" at the bottom. It fits nicely in between the radiator shrouds and is made of expanded steel.
The shape of the cage from a side profile is very much like the shape of the shrouds when seen from the side.
It is vertical in the front allowing mud to fall down.
It cost about 8 dollars to make and took less than 20 minutes to complete with a pair of shears.
The effect is that even if the front of the cage becomes impacted with mud (doubtful but for the sake of argument) there would still be an air cavity behind the cage for which the fan could draw air through the radiator, which is not caked with mud.
This pic is not the best, but you can see the cage and youll just have to take my word for it that there is virtually no mud on the radiator at all.
KISS Method, keep it simple.
The radiator is not the best design, but i think it's more than suitable, even with the bigger motor.
The problem is not the size of the radiator or the motor, the problem is with the mud. A bigger radiator will clog just as easily as this small radiator without protection from the mud.
I race a lot in washington state and more often than not it's really muddy.
One of the first things I did was address the mud situation with my radiator.
Since that time Ive raced in some rediculously muddy conditions without mishap. At then end of the race my radiator was about 90% free of mud.
After this race [img]http://www.cannondaleriders.com/vbb/attachment.php?s=&postid=15060[/img] There was barely any mud on the radiator and none of it was packed in.
The trick is to build a cage in front of the radiator that allows for an air cavity between the radiator and the cage. Most radiator gaurds sit directly on the face of the radiator and while they protect the fins from damage they dont do much to prevent a crapload of mud from accumulating. once that gaurd is covered the radiator is essentially starved for airflow...
The cage I built stands off from the radiator about 4" at the top down to about 1" at the bottom. It fits nicely in between the radiator shrouds and is made of expanded steel.
The shape of the cage from a side profile is very much like the shape of the shrouds when seen from the side.
It is vertical in the front allowing mud to fall down.
It cost about 8 dollars to make and took less than 20 minutes to complete with a pair of shears.
The effect is that even if the front of the cage becomes impacted with mud (doubtful but for the sake of argument) there would still be an air cavity behind the cage for which the fan could draw air through the radiator, which is not caked with mud.
This pic is not the best, but you can see the cage and youll just have to take my word for it that there is virtually no mud on the radiator at all.
KISS Method, keep it simple.
nice work, and good pics to demonstrate, i think that sometimes simple problems are way over thought,
you are absolutly correct.... bigger rad=more mud
Lap, there is so much mud on you and the quad, i dont think i have ever seen someone thast muddy
the second round of the GNCC last year in florida was pretty bad but there was alot of water on the course to wash all the heavy packed stuff off and cooling wasnt a problem cuz there were sections where the quad was up to side spars in water
you are absolutly correct.... bigger rad=more mud
Lap, there is so much mud on you and the quad, i dont think i have ever seen someone thast muddy
the second round of the GNCC last year in florida was pretty bad but there was alot of water on the course to wash all the heavy packed stuff off and cooling wasnt a problem cuz there were sections where the quad was up to side spars in water
I planned on making something similar to what you have there Lap. My plan was to actually attach the grill to my aluminum shrouds on each side and extend in as far as possible to the frame. This would leave an open spot in the middle, but with frame rails, front bumper and number plate, I doubt much mud would get through the middle.
I should have had these several months ago but my fabricator is sleeping on the job:cry:
I should have had these several months ago but my fabricator is sleeping on the job:cry:
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cannondale440
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LapTraffic
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cannondale27
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QUOTE
No onto where the problem is. If that is true and it does run hotter you guys are saying it is because more of the heat is in the radiator. That can't be true because Cannondale Radiators don't have a temp sensor located there. It is located in the head. That would mean there is more heat where it should not be in the head. Just something to chew on.
Temp sensor doesnt measure temp of liner,piston,oil,chamber,exhaust those are what matter.Prove to me that Evans makes those parts run hotter.Coolant temp can be anything as long as those parts are cool very little heat is lost in the hoses from motor to radiator so where temp sensor is located has very little to do with wether the important parts are cool.Try again Derno or switch to Evans it makes sense.
QUOTE
Originally posted by cannondale27
Temp sensor doesnt measure temp of liner,piston,oil,chamber,exhaust those are what matter.Prove to me that Evans makes those parts run hotter.Coolant temp can be anything as long as those parts are cool very little heat is lost in the hoses from motor to radiator so where temp sensor is located has very little to do with wether the important parts are cool.Try again Derno or switch to Evans it makes sense.
Temp sensor doesnt measure temp of liner,piston,oil,chamber,exhaust those are what matter.Prove to me that Evans makes those parts run hotter.Coolant temp can be anything as long as those parts are cool very little heat is lost in the hoses from motor to radiator so where temp sensor is located has very little to do with wether the important parts are cool.Try again Derno or switch to Evans it makes sense.
Now don't dodge me. It does matter if we are just using the fan goes on more method. The fan is activated by the temp sensor which in turn is located in the head. So yes it would be safe to say if all that is true then it is putting the heat where it shouldn't be. Hey I do mind trying things out, but you guys were quick to rebut on ****** due to his statement that the fan runs more. And to say that the sensor which is located in the head is valuable in getting a ballpark temp for all parts you listed is off. Just too much stuff in too small a place for temps to be drastically different. Like I said earlier that is if we are using the temp sensor as our guide.
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cannondale27
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If you are using the temp sensor as a guide which I dont recommend the temp sensor measures coolant.If the coolant is in fact sucking more heat FROM the vital parts it will be hotter whether it is in the head or the radiator.That is exactly why the Evans coolant runs hotter.
Example:If there was a airpocket/bubbles in coolant formed right at the spot where temp sensor is located the temp sensor would in fact read lower than the coolant outside of airpocket but the sleeve in the area of the airpocket would be way hotter than the other areas of sleeve which have coolant.
Only way to prove me wrong would be to take EGT readings and Oil temp readings with both types of coolant.If in fact the Evans readings are higher they would still need to be dangerously higher to make me switch to something else because I like the fact I can run without worry of boiling out and I also like that in a emergency I could even run without radiator cap (no pressure needed) and I cant afford a $300 valvecover:D
Example:If there was a airpocket/bubbles in coolant formed right at the spot where temp sensor is located the temp sensor would in fact read lower than the coolant outside of airpocket but the sleeve in the area of the airpocket would be way hotter than the other areas of sleeve which have coolant.
Only way to prove me wrong would be to take EGT readings and Oil temp readings with both types of coolant.If in fact the Evans readings are higher they would still need to be dangerously higher to make me switch to something else because I like the fact I can run without worry of boiling out and I also like that in a emergency I could even run without radiator cap (no pressure needed) and I cant afford a $300 valvecover:D