Last Try!:(

Message

wistech · #21 Post by **wistech** » Fri May 20, 2005 7:58 pm

Not using a T fitting? Ya that would kind of bypass the regulator. LOL

cdalepilot · #22 Post by **cdalepilot** » Fri May 20, 2005 11:12 pm

i bet your timing is off.:drink:

dunnbandit1 · #23 Post by **dunnbandit1** » Sat May 21, 2005 12:50 am

maybe the crank sensor cannot read the flywheel because of all the oil in there

Canniboomer · #24 Post by **Canniboomer** » Sat May 21, 2005 1:18 am

... yep, gotta wonder if all that oily goo behind flywheel is affecting the stator ouput?... you have to pull off anyway to correct that leaking seal. And a wobbly crankbearing could affect flywheel/crank sensor. Note those radiating oil lines show that your flywheel bond is getting well lubed for a future "spin", so you might also want to get that thing pinned.

wistech · #25 Post by **wistech** » Sat May 21, 2005 2:12 am

Did you ever check for up and down play in your flywheel? You said you had the flywheel off so does it look like the magnets inside the wheel are rubbing on the stator? Thats a classic sign of failed main bearing and will cause the symptoms you desribed. We are looking for up and down movement here. There should be virtually zero play that way. No need to pry very hard ,just about 10 pounds pressure is all it takes.

bombsquad54 · #26 Post by **bombsquad54** » Sat May 21, 2005 7:07 pm

on my old 250r, i broke the same seal and the bike wouldnt start because all the oil on the stator kept it from sparking consistantly/ hot enough, this would explain why it started just once, because after trying so long to start it the oil worn off enough for a good fire/connection, try cleaning all that oil off and i bet she starts like a dream!

440rider · #27 Post by **440rider** » Sat May 21, 2005 10:03 pm

did a bunch of tests and..
I'm getting return fuel to the tank,
good spark,
plenty of battery power
airbox is on tight
I think it all points to the flywheel, it's seems the bearing may be shot there is just a slight bit of play in it I can pull it out just a hair and push it back. It seems that the whole shaft is moving as well. The oil on the stator and the stator connectons may be something. I cleaned the flywheel sensor off and the plug is getting a good spark. I need to get a puller to take off the flywheel, anyone know where to get on off hand?

Thanks for all the help I will hopefulley get up and running soon!

I'll keep everyone posted. Thx for all the help!

jesshamner · #28 Post by **jesshamner** » Sun May 22, 2005 1:39 am

QUOTE

Originally posted by 440rider
I need to get a puller to take off the flywheel, anyone know where to get on off hand?

26mmX 1.5 internal threads
Motoplat-Femsa-Bosch
ATK-Enduro Models. OffRoad
Husaberg-400,501 and 600 4Cycle single,off road
Husqvarna-2 cycle and 4 cycle models
Bultaco,Ossa,Montesa and Husqvarna Classic M/C MX,Enduro and street.1960's,70's

cdrider02 · #29 Post by **cdrider02** » Sun May 22, 2005 5:55 am

Also Stihl chainsaws use this puller the shop here had two different types the smaller dia. of the two was the right one it
came from stihl and cost about $20.A small amount of in and out movement (endplay ) is normal some motors have more than others but I don't remember what the spec is. You are looking for movement up and down there should be none.

banzairx7 · #30 Post by **banzairx7** » Mon May 23, 2005 11:29 am

I just bought the stihl one and they charged me $45:(

They told me the price when it showed up not when I ordered it. Since it was special order I had to pay for it.

Some brake cleaner would clean that oily film right off.