QUOTE (wistech @ Oct 24 2007, 10:31 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Tim and myself were exerimenting with depth and found that if you went to far you sometimes end up with a engine that goes into neutral too easy . Like getting neutral in a drag race would be very bad. It seems reshaping the the edges (peaks)and matching the roller to the detent is whats is important. Im not going to recomend going any further if you dont have to. You can go further if you want to but at your risk. I only do the mod on the engines that are known for the issues. Mostly fx400's and early cannibals. Newer engines didnt seem to have the issue nearly as much. If your engine does not do it then dont touch it.
Right now I have the trans out of my early unicorn case. I bought the bike not running, so I don't know how it is on finding neutral. If I am going to mod it, now is the time. Should I modify it while I am here?
Here are a couple tricks we used to do on banshees:
#1. Rounding off the points of the star. This mainly helped the distance you had to lift the shift lever to complete a shift. Anyone that has rode a stock banshee knows due to the length of the lever, you have to lift it very far.
#2. Lighter detent spring. This made shifting faster, as well as making it MUCH easier to find neutral.
#3. Using a detent with a bearing. The stock banshee detent arm is just a washer on a stud. We found some arms that a roller bearing. This was probably the biggest improvement.
Those three things made my banshees shift like butter. Stock, they are probably the hardest to shift sport ATVs ever built.