Going on a diet

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Canniboomer · #61 Post by **Canniboomer** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 3:44 am

The aluminums were used on the MX400 dirtbikes, and maybe a few of the earliest ATV's. Some plate damage was happening, and Cannondale upgraded the pressure plate to cure that. But other issues must have been lingering, and they eventually changed to steel plates. But slippage was still happening!, and they upgraded to our present day clutch springs. Since that time, we have had maybe the best clutch on the planet, with no slippage like you say... After more than a year of curling the thinner friction plates with our no-slip clutch, they finally upgraded to the thicker friction plates. So there was quite an evolution to our clutch, in just those few years until the END. Anyway, it would be tempting now for somebody to try the aluminums again, with the improved springs -- that combination has probably not even been tested. Maybe the next dyno king?....... I can think of one guy that is probably installing some as we speak!,

claas900 · #62 Post by **claas900** » Thu Apr 10, 2008 11:00 pm

So I went to the post office to weigh the differences between the two baskets. All I can say is wow what a big waste of time drilling these holes. LOL
Stock basket is 2lbs 7.00oz
My basket is 2lbs 5.50 oz

Canniboomer · #63 Post by **Canniboomer** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 12:52 am

Hey, that's at least a good start, and right on topic! So, why not get more radical now? Like with maybe 24 or 36 small holes outside of the tines, in the thicker steel? It will only cost you another few hours and a 10-pack of drill bits!, LOL

Speed 1B · #64 Post by **Speed 1B** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 2:31 am

Don't sell yourself short Patrick. Most of the YFZs are only taking 2-6 oz at the very most off their flywheels and they say it makes a big difference.

thedeatons · #65 Post by **thedeatons** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 3:07 am

Hey Speed1B... Are you just seeing quicker revs with these type of mods (less rotating mass inside the engine)? I would think this would be similar to a lighter flywheel effect, which can have adverse effects in certain conditions.... Thoughts?

Speed 1B · #66 Post by **Speed 1B** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 3:30 am

Well my oppinion is that taking weight off the rotating mass of the engine is risky.

When you tune for the highest possible horsepower like we do typically you lose torque. I also try to hook my bike up as tight as possible too. So what could happen by taking weight off is that you could actually pull the bike out of its peak power range. When everything is up and spooling at 12,000 rpms and you dump the clutch it will be harder to make that mass slow down the heavier it is...keeping you in the heart of your rpm range without bogging.

BUT who's to say where that point is where you lose too much mass? How much do we have to take off oz wise before we actually hurt ourselves more than help?

I have been wanting to make -2, -4, and -6 oz flywheels and try them becasue these are the most common weights the yfz and trx guys use. But I don't have the money to buy 3 flywheels and start cutting them up...possibly for nothing.

You could probably make more power with a few ozs off the crank. Patrick might be dead on with his set-up. It's just a matter of spending some time on the dyno and finding out.

claas900 · #67 Post by **claas900** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 4:11 am

The clutch basket doesn't turn near as fast as the flywheel, so I'd think 2-6oz on the crank might make a bigger difference?
Brady, I know what you mean about getting things too light. It's the same in the sand. That's why I run a 7 paddle. I think it slips a little more to help keep the revs up in the meat. But to be honest I haven't ran 7 and 8's back to back to see how big the difference really is.
But I will say I like the 7's better for the long drag races,they seem to pull easer.
Here's some pics of the first basket I did but I haven't weighed it yet.

claas900 · #68 Post by **claas900** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 4:18 am

I did also drill some holes in the idler gear between the cam gears tho I don't have any pics of it.
The basket is a very hard metal and does require a special drill bit. Drilling the holes is the easy part. The hard part is getting everything all set up nice and true.
At one time I was going to drill holes on the crank gear that drives the counter balancer. But I really wasn't 100% about doing it plus I couldn't get it off the crank

claas900 · #69 Post by **claas900** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 4:26 am

QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Apr 10 2008, 05:52 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hey, that's at least a good start, and right on topic! So, why not get more radical now? Like with maybe 24 or 36 small holes outside of the tines, in the thicker steel? It will only cost you another few hours and a 10-pack of drill bits!, LOL

Trust me I thought about doing that LOL. Tho that would need a small drill bit and I did think about strength of it. If you look at the basket with the bigger holes on the very outer ones theres really not a lot of meat around the holes I drilled about 3.2mm if you want to measure it. Tho I think most of the strain on the basket is on the teeth then fingers. I don't think theres really a lot of strain inside the basket past the fingers once the clutch is engaged?

cannondale27 · #70 Post by **cannondale27** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:37 am

Nice Job!

Hey slightly off topic but kind of related. On the new Suzuki Dirtbikes they have fuel injection. It required a larger stator and a bigger flywheel. Supposedly the magnetic pull is so noticable that when kickstarted(no starter on bike) if you dont get it to go it acts as if its siezed. Remove stator and kicks like before. Guys may want to run the bike stator and use a charger for drags. Ditch the fan.