(stage8 Instructions!) Stud update-- can ya help a girl out?? :)

Message

cannondale27 · #11 Post by **cannondale27** » Thu Oct 16, 2003 1:11 pm

This is how it looks when done

Derno24 · #12 Post by **Derno24** » Thu Oct 16, 2003 2:06 pm

Now that is the most helpful thing I have seen. I am dropping my motor over the winter. I have the Factory update in mine and I would like to go to the stage 8 set-up can I still do this? I was under the impression the factory set-up used nuts and there was some drilling involved.

Sorry to jump in, but I figured we were on the subject.

Jennys440dale · #13 Post by **Jennys440dale** » Thu Oct 16, 2003 6:07 pm

Wow guys, thanks for all the tips and pics! Appreciated very much! The process should go smoothly now, hopefully. If not, I will be back on here to ask a question!

cannondale27 · #14 Post by **cannondale27** » Fri Oct 17, 2003 12:51 am

No drilling involved even with factory update which only does the crankplate.Just put two nuts on each stud and tighten them against each other then turn bottom nut counterclockwise and the stud will come right out or you could use a vicegrip locking wrench since you wont be needing the studs ever again.The Stage8 replaces ALL the trans and crankplate bolts.

Derno24 · #15 Post by **Derno24** » Fri Oct 17, 2003 2:25 am

Thanks for the help..

54warrior · #16 Post by **54warrior** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 10:27 am

It was tight, but I removed my engine without removing the header pipe.

Jennys440dale · #17 Post by **Jennys440dale** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 12:54 pm

QUOTE

Originally posted by 54warrior
It was tight, but I removed my engine without removing the header pipe.

Oh, so now you tell me!! HA! That is where I stopped last night in an attempt to do the stud update. Getting to the nuts of the header is hard!

Got a ?:

Is there anything I need to seal the exhaust back on to the engine?

NRath · #18 Post by **NRath** » Tue Oct 21, 2003 4:03 pm

The header bolt's are ac tually pretty easy if you use 1/4 drive with a swivel on the socket and some extensions. No problem at all! You only need the swivel for one- the lower left I think. The extensions will put you straight on the other 3.
Also, I'd disagree with one of R&S's tips- Don't remove the engine cradle. It's a perfect place to use a jack when dropping the engine and it's an even better engine stand once it's on the bench! Loosen the 2 motor mount bolts, pivot the engine upwards, and put a large socket under the motor. Then you can get to all the side cover screws. Work's like a champ. Kyle (at R&S) has a custom C'dale engine stand.

Jennys440dale · #19 Post by **Jennys440dale** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 2:34 pm

Alright, I'm still in the process of removing everything.

Have some more questions:

Is it really necessary for me to remove the radiator?

How do I get the intake boot out of the box that is right below the handlebars??

What size do I need to remove the swingarm nut?

Thanks!

Ryanstones · #20 Post by **Ryanstones** » Wed Oct 29, 2003 3:27 pm

QUOTE

Originally posted by Jennys440'dale
Alright, I'm still in the process of removing everything.

Have some more questions:

Is it really necessary for me to remove the radiator?
It's not essential to remove, but only takes a few minutes and makes everything ALOT easier.

How do I get the intake boot out of the box that is right below the handlebars??
don't remove the boot from the airbox, remove it from the throttle body. Loosen the hose clamp and push.

What size do I need to remove the swingarm nut?
I'm thinking i used a standard socket, 7/8 maybe?

Thanks!

Cannondaleriders

(stage8 Instructions!) Stud update-- can ya help a girl out?? :)

Stage 8 installed

Removing factory studs

Engine removal

Re: Engine removal