Hello, I'm selling my E440. Bike has had many updates on it. z400 bearing, crank balanced by crankworks. Boomer ported head with all new valves and cams. Cam lock engine stud update. Mag tranny bolt, coolent overflow tank. New front and rear tire with one ride on it. D&M kit. Boomer Fuel line update. Scotts damper post and mount. New fork seals. Plastics and seat are in great condition.
Now the bad. Bike runs perfect for about an hour or so, then start to do some mystery stalling. I've star nutted all the ground connections, zip tied the relay and can't pin down the problem. I check to make sure the radiator is warm before each ride. The D&M kit shows no faults....
It's real puzzling to me. I would love to keep it and work through the issues, but my wife and I just bought a house and I don't have the time currently to be tinkering on it anymore.
Bike is located in Reno, NV and I would like to get $1900 for it, which is basically how much i have invested in parts for it. The head was around 4-5 hundred, the crank was another 400 with the bearing and balancing, the D&M kit was 300, plus all the other odds and ends like gaskits fuel kit, ect.
Would be a great pick up for someone who knows these bikes well. I'm sure a small adjustment or part could make this bike a great runner. I'm willing to ship if you make all the arrangements, or can deliver it within 100 miles of Reno for the gas money.
Give me a call if your interested, Phil 435-640-6946
03 Cannondale E440 $1900
QUOTE (Haz-Matt @ Jul 17 2011, 02:31 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Do you have the start and stop buttons that are seperate? (like the fx400 ones) If so you need the other style that boomer sells, it's all in one. That's what it sounds like to me. Give boomer a call on the switch.
That's what I thought as well. I got the new switch from Boomer and that didn't make a differance.
QUOTE (Haz-Matt @ Jul 19 2011, 12:53 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Was talking to timbo and he said he thinks it's your coil acting up. He's had it happen to him a couple times. Try that and let us know.
That makes some sense......After it gets hot it could be shorting out the coil.....I didn't think of that.
Anyone got a good coil for sale or to try?
QUOTE (philfell @ Jul 19 2011, 12:08 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
That makes some sense......After it gets hot it could be shorting out the coil.....I didn't think of that.
Anyone got a good coil for sale or to try?
Anyone got a good coil for sale or to try?
Does it start right up after stalling or does it have to cool down first, before restarting. In your first post it dosent say whether it starts right up or not after stalling. If it has to cool down before restart, I would start with the coil.
QUOTE (Haz-Matt @ Jul 19 2011, 11:14 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Does it start right up after stalling or does it have to cool down first, before restarting. In your first post it dosent say whether it starts right up or not after stalling. If it has to cool down before restart, I would start with the coil.
Starts instantly, never sputters or even caughs.
Before I switched the on/off switch the bike would cut out when riding. If I was still moving it would not pop start, unless I tapped the green button to turn back on the ECU, then it could let the clutch out and keep on going. Then it would cut out again a few minutes later. The stalls would progressively get closer in time until it would only stay running for a few seconds.
I don't think it's the relay, I cleaned all the connections really well and have it securely zip tied.
QUOTE (Wistech @ Jul 20 2011, 04:17 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The problem with the relays is not the terminals .Its the internal mechanism. The machine doesnt need it except for reprogramming.
So it will run with it unplugged??