WANTED!!
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motocross girl#55
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Canniboomer
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motocross girl#55
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QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Sep 29 2014, 04:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
.. pumps and all misc in stock.. but pump might be ok. Beware touching the terminals yet, maybe call for misc checks first.
you have a pump for sale? I had some bad fuel and it ate my entire fuel system, so I replaced it all with metal hoses and the fuel filter but the pump is not reacting right, my fuel from the filter is not going into the pump its sitting ontop of the filter. I need a new pump:/
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speedracer
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motocross girl#55
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QUOTE (speedracer @ Sep 30 2014, 02:18 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
You can try and bench test the pump,may just be frozen up.Dont forget to check your screen in the regulator for gunk,also the screen in the tank itself.
Ive done all that:/ I ran into some contaminated fuel a few months ago and have been fighting with it since. It ate a entire fuel system. It corded the lines and they collapsed, so I replaced them with metal lines, and unplugged everything. Than it was still shutting off so I pulled the thank and checked the filter at the end of that and it wasn't plugged, but the part that connects to the lines in the tank was plugged, it broke a clasp off and it was stuck in the valve, so we got everything unplugged and cleaned and hooked back up. But its still shutting off, so I looked and my fuel filter Is taking in the gas right, but the pump isn't pumping it so all the gas is sitting on top of the filter and causing my quad to shut off because its not getting enough gas..
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Canniboomer
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Is there any hum from the pump?.. is it trying to prime?
If so, then you could try prefilling the filter and line into the pump (tiny funnel?), and reconnect to seal up the suction path -- then try again with a higher idle-screw setting.
BUT, if you merely "cleaned out" the female and male connectors at the front left underside exit of the tank?.. if you only cleaned those?, then it's not good enough -- and any replacement pump will probably fail again within 2 seasons.
At minimum, those 2 fittings must be completely "gutted" of all 6 internal pieces. And the return side should also be done.
Also, any in-tank fuel pickup tube should be replaced after removing that to check the clunker-weight screen in the tank -- that tube gets very stiff over the years, and shrinks shorter also.
Cut the replacement tube 1/2" longer than the one you remove. You will need a new and limp tube to make sure the weight returns to the bottom of the tank. For my send-out high-flow
replacement tank setups?, I pluck off that inlet screen on the clunker weight -- it is not needed, as you can let the fuel filter do the same job... I have never encountered any in-tank problem from
not using the screen on the clunker (or early tank rear outlets). They are really just something else to get plugged or gooey, but the fuel filter can take over that chore with easy access.
The screens were only needed to protect "valved" fuel fittings, and are therefore NOT needed after you convert the tank to Valveless. And if ever a tank problem from some rare blockage?.. a simple reverse pulse of compressed air will clear anything.
If so, then you could try prefilling the filter and line into the pump (tiny funnel?), and reconnect to seal up the suction path -- then try again with a higher idle-screw setting.
BUT, if you merely "cleaned out" the female and male connectors at the front left underside exit of the tank?.. if you only cleaned those?, then it's not good enough -- and any replacement pump will probably fail again within 2 seasons.
At minimum, those 2 fittings must be completely "gutted" of all 6 internal pieces. And the return side should also be done.
Also, any in-tank fuel pickup tube should be replaced after removing that to check the clunker-weight screen in the tank -- that tube gets very stiff over the years, and shrinks shorter also.
Cut the replacement tube 1/2" longer than the one you remove. You will need a new and limp tube to make sure the weight returns to the bottom of the tank. For my send-out high-flow
replacement tank setups?, I pluck off that inlet screen on the clunker weight -- it is not needed, as you can let the fuel filter do the same job... I have never encountered any in-tank problem from
not using the screen on the clunker (or early tank rear outlets). They are really just something else to get plugged or gooey, but the fuel filter can take over that chore with easy access.
The screens were only needed to protect "valved" fuel fittings, and are therefore NOT needed after you convert the tank to Valveless. And if ever a tank problem from some rare blockage?.. a simple reverse pulse of compressed air will clear anything.
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motocross girl#55
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QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Sep 30 2014, 06:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Is there any hum from the pump?.. is it trying to prime?
If so, then you could try prefilling the filter and line into the pump (tiny funnel?), and reconnect to seal up the suction path -- then try again with a higher idle-screw setting.
BUT, if you merely "cleaned out" the female and male connectors at the front left underside exit of the tank?.. if you only cleaned those?, then it's not good enough -- and any replacement pump will probably fail again within 2 seasons.
At minimum, those 2 fittings must be completely "gutted" of all 6 internal pieces. And the return side should also be done.
Also, any in-tank fuel pickup tube should be replaced after removing that to check the clunker-weight screen in the tank -- that tube gets very stiff over the years, and shrinks shorter also.
Cut the replacement tube 1/2" longer than the one you remove. You will need a new and limp tube to make sure the weight returns to the bottom of the tank. For my send-out high-flow
replacement tank setups?, I pluck off that inlet screen on the clunker weight -- it is not needed, as you can let the fuel filter do the same job... I have never encountered any in-tank problem from
not using the screen on the clunker (or early tank rear outlets). They are really just something else to get plugged or gooey, but the fuel filter can take over that chore with easy access.
The screens were only needed to protect "valved" fuel fittings, and are therefore NOT needed after you convert the tank to Valveless. And if ever a tank problem from some rare blockage?.. a simple reverse pulse of compressed air will clear anything.
If so, then you could try prefilling the filter and line into the pump (tiny funnel?), and reconnect to seal up the suction path -- then try again with a higher idle-screw setting.
BUT, if you merely "cleaned out" the female and male connectors at the front left underside exit of the tank?.. if you only cleaned those?, then it's not good enough -- and any replacement pump will probably fail again within 2 seasons.
At minimum, those 2 fittings must be completely "gutted" of all 6 internal pieces. And the return side should also be done.
Also, any in-tank fuel pickup tube should be replaced after removing that to check the clunker-weight screen in the tank -- that tube gets very stiff over the years, and shrinks shorter also.
Cut the replacement tube 1/2" longer than the one you remove. You will need a new and limp tube to make sure the weight returns to the bottom of the tank. For my send-out high-flow
replacement tank setups?, I pluck off that inlet screen on the clunker weight -- it is not needed, as you can let the fuel filter do the same job... I have never encountered any in-tank problem from
not using the screen on the clunker (or early tank rear outlets). They are really just something else to get plugged or gooey, but the fuel filter can take over that chore with easy access.
The screens were only needed to protect "valved" fuel fittings, and are therefore NOT needed after you convert the tank to Valveless. And if ever a tank problem from some rare blockage?.. a simple reverse pulse of compressed air will clear anything.
My dad is a machanic so he knows a lot and he replaced everything like all lines the filter the lines in the tank everything