western maryland x440

Message

azcannon · #11 Post by **azcannon** » Sat Aug 05, 2006 6:06 pm

have you updated your motor ? hows your oil filter look any shavings? its a good thing to rule out anyways.

If you doing throttle cals and you motor is stock and you should post up your vin so we can post you back your stock settings and then you can put those in via a d and M then have a fresh plug and sounds like you already have the filter and see what you get, need to make sure you butterfly is tight in your throttle body and of course no leaks on your boots . then go from there

hillclimber · #12 Post by **hillclimber** » Sun Aug 06, 2006 6:19 am

sent you a pm thanks

kdeal · #13 Post by **kdeal** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 1:46 am

I PM'd Brian his factory settings. The throttle offset is at 1.0, I haven't worked with too many motors with that high of a throttle offset. The majority are at zero. The oil pressure was pretty low at the factory as well. I would do what AZCannon said above, and check for shavings in the oil filter or engine oil. If it's not an engine problem, then it sounds like a fuel problem. Maybe someone out there can reprogram your ECU hex code and reload the factory map and settings.

Good Luck

hillclimber · #14 Post by **hillclimber** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 2:49 am

what would be the cause of the tbl to be at 1 and the oil pressure to be low. Rode today and the header got so hot it burnt my pants leg and I took the filter out after that and and there is no metal shavings on it but when i was riding it it was pretty noisy and most of it was comingm from cartridge plate side but it would come and go.

azcannon · #15 Post by **azcannon** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 3:54 am

careful sometimes the " noise " is bad. If you have a un updated motor it is worth trying to save the rod and crank anyways and throw a z40 in it

kdeal · #16 Post by **kdeal** » Mon Aug 07, 2006 9:39 pm

If there were no shavings in the filter, the other test I would do is to grab the flywheel and see if there is any movement up and down or in and out. If there is none, I would move onto the lean condition. It has to be fuel or ECU related. Either you are not getting enough fuel into the motor or the ignition timing is off. Both are controled by the ECU. I would have that hex code reprogrammed by someone that has the ability to do so and replace the stock map and stock settings. Once you have it back do a throttle cal, and you should be good to go.

hillclimber · #17 Post by **hillclimber** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 3:04 am

alright just done the hex code update and put stock map and setting back in it and calibrated the throttle. Checked the filter and there are no shavings clean , checked for play on flywheel side, no up or down movement but there is an 1/8 to 1/4 inch of play in it and i also noticed that the metal piece in the fly wheel has turned blue like its been extremly hot. I turned the idle screw in and fired it up and rode it around yard for about 5 to 10 mins and shut it off. Antifreeze was coming out over flow tube on radiator , so just out of curiosity I took the flywheel cover off and laid my hand on it and i didnt let it on there very long no more than 2 to 3 seconds any longer and it would have burnt me ,so I started feeling around and the frame where the oil is in it was the same way ,the cover over the timing chain is the same way. I also noticed that when i pulled the clucth in and blip the throttle the whole bike vibrated. So Im now wondering is the rod bearing shot and is creating excess heat build up in the motor and everything is acting like a heat sink and soaking it up and spreading it out throughout the motor. I am open to try anything just let me know. I just want to get this headache fixed if the crank is bad i will be switch it out for the motor in my speed just have to change clutch basket. Dont want to but its my only choice cant afford to build another motor. Thanks

azcannon · #18 Post by **azcannon** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 5:31 am

I wonder about the overheating have you checked your radiator hoses .

I would guess your impellar is spun for sure and you almost undoubtedly are not flowing coolant. this can and will take out your rod bearing fast.

If you use your speed motor you will need to change your crank gear and clutch basket and valve cover,

The impellar goes bad easy if you get a bubble in your impellar housing and it cavitates and then overheats and spins the impellar ( plastic ) Both my X440's took out their impellar and needed to be switched out with the aluminum ones.

If your flwheel hub heated up and expanded it has probably stretched out , your soft aluminum flywheel casting can easily fail on you if the hub is blued.

I have felt vibration on a lot of those cranks it may not be ready to go but if its a stocker it won't last long anyways

cannondale27 · #19 Post by **cannondale27** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 1:08 pm

Great advice.I have seen some brand new flywheels that the hub part was blue though.03's internal gearing was same on quads and bikes.Have you checked your fuel disconnects?If you turn idle down does it rev up and down on its own finally dying?

hillclimber · #20 Post by **hillclimber** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 9:32 pm

QUOTE (azcannon @ Aug 10 2006, 01:31 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I wonder about the overheating have you checked your radiator hoses .

I would guess your impellar is spun for sure and you almost undoubtedly are not flowing coolant. this can and will take out your rod bearing fast.

If you use your speed motor you will need to change your crank gear and clutch basket and valve cover,

The impellar goes bad easy if you get a bubble in your impellar housing and it cavitates and then overheats and spins the impellar ( plastic ) Both my X440's took out their impellar and needed to be switched out with the aluminum ones.

If your flwheel hub heated up and expanded it has probably stretched out , your soft aluminum flywheel casting can easily fail on you if the hub is blued.
I have felt vibration on a lot of those cranks it may not be ready to go but if its a stocker it won't last long anyways

I have checked everything to do with the radiator and the entire cooling system atleast three different times including the the bleed hole and everything is in great shape plus the radiator is just as hot as the rest of the motor.