OIL Coming into Breather box or under it

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new daler
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#11 Post by new daler »

QUOTE (cannondale27 @ Sep 26 2010, 08:16 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Hold on!If your oil level is way to high you will not see the oil flowing.If you look in the frame oil fill hole with motor running you should see a divider with about a 1/4in hole in it.Is your oil level even or just slightly above/below that divider?



it is slightly below the devider, remember it just set a few months and now after I put the fuel pump on there off my 450 ATK quad it started running and spitting oil Please help

cannondale27
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#12 Post by cannondale27 »

Well then you will have to pull the motor. Sorry for your luck. Was hoping you just overfilled it.

new daler
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#13 Post by new daler »

QUOTE (cannondale27 @ Sep 26 2010, 09:09 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Well then you will have to pull the motor.Sorry for your luck.Was hoping you just overfilled it.


Ok broke motor down fixed alot of the items, now the bike will no idle, we start and then run a few seconds and cuts off them have to spray a little carb cleaner to get it to fire back up and do the same thing, has anyone else had this problem, do I have to bleed the injectors or fuel line? Also there are some vac lines at the front of the quad that hook to a tee and I dont know how to hook them up, htey had dried out, does anyone know where I can get the info to fix those, can that be why my quad want idle or take fuel now? Anyone that can help please do.

cannondale27
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#14 Post by cannondale27 »

Did you fix the scavenger pump? Do you have oil flow now? I hope so. Anyway the REASON the oil pump gears strip is because something metal went through the pump or on occasion the gears themselves. You need to find the source of the metal. 99% of the time it is a broken decomp that goes through the pump. A broken decomp will cause all the poor running symptoms you are now having. To fix you will once again have to pull the motor, remove valve cover and exhaust cam and send it out for repair. Then add a magnet from Canniboomer to prevent this from happening again. Sorry for bad news.

new daler
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#15 Post by new daler »

QUOTE (cannondale27 @ Oct 9 2010, 08:27 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Did you fix the scavenger pump?Do you have oil flow now?I hope so.Anyway the REASON the oil pump gears strip is because something metal went through the pump or on occasion the gears themselves.You need to find the source of the metal.99% of the time it is a broken decomp that goes through the pump.A broken decomp will cause all the poor running symptoms you are now having.To fix you will once again have to pull the motor,remove valvecover and exhaust cam and send it out for repair.Then add a magnet from Canniboomer to prevent this from happening again.Sorry for bad news.


yes went threw everything and cleaned everthing out, checked replaced did all that but still want run right, do the vacumm lines have anything to do with it?

Canniboomer
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#16 Post by Canniboomer »

No the venting lines won't affect that. BUT they still have to be corrected, since the airbox is now sucking in unfiltered air where the cracked vent line attaches.

Some weakened fuelpumps DO need a pre-priming boost, but that also depends on the line routing and fuel level. But you might check all of your fuel line fitting connections first, and check that you have the idle screw turned back to where it was before you pulled out the motor....and check those harness connectors at the crank sensor, temp sensor and injectors for a possible swip-swap.

new daler
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#17 Post by new daler »

QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Oct 9 2010, 10:09 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
No the venting lines won't affect that. BUT they still have to be corrected, since the airbox is now sucking in unfiltered air where the cracked vent line attaches.

Some weakened fuelpumps DO need a pre-priming boost, but that also depends on the line routing and fuel level. But you might check all of your fuel line fitting connections first, and check that you have the idle screw turned back to where it was before you pulled out the motor....and check those harness connectors at the crank sensor, temp sensor and injectors for a possible swip-swap.


Where can I get the info on how the lines hook up? What is a broken Decomp? I will recheck everything tomorrow The lines are run the best I could to get them all to work again, At least now the oil is flowing and not out the airbox. can keep it running with a little card cleaner but shouldnt need to

speedracer
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#18 Post by speedracer »

I cant remember where the lines go.I will look today and see.Is your fuel filter empty when your cranking it over?Are your quick connects gutted?Maybe a pinched fuel line?Is your fuel pump priming,gotta be something simple since it ran before you worked on it.

new daler
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#19 Post by new daler »

QUOTE (speedracer @ Oct 10 2010, 09:56 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I cant remember where the lines go.I will look today and see.Is your fuel filter empty when your cranking it over?Are your quick connects gutted?Maybe a pinched fuel line?Is your fuel pump priming,gotta be something simple since it ran before you worked on it.



The filter fills up half way then goes empty, do I need to gut my quick connects? if how? fuel pump is wining as usual, it runs now just want stay running and some times have to help it start. Thanks if you think of anything and check your lines please let me know.

speedracer
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#20 Post by speedracer »

Sounds like your quick connects, the o rings can swell or rot cutting off fuel flow, you can remove them and drill them out.Do a search,you will find a step by step on this forum,very simple to do.I had a 02 that had dryrotted vac lines,it still ran,probably not the problem,but should be fixed anyhow.

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