need help

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Kuma · #11 Post by **Kuma** » Sun Feb 21, 2010 4:16 pm

QUOTE (skippy4103 @ Feb 20 2010, 08:50 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

ok now it stays running but when you go to take off it stalls... it starts and idles good now but like when you hit the gas over hafe it acts like its going to die...the fuel pump sounds weak like a squicking noise...

Do you have any way of checking your TPS?

claas900 · #12 Post by **claas900** » Sun Feb 21, 2010 4:35 pm

Gut you fuel connectors. Also if it revs about half way then starts to cut out it could also be the relay under your air filter. Check the wires going to it also make sure the relay it in there tight.

skippy4103 · #13 Post by **skippy4103** » Tue Feb 23, 2010 12:28 am

mil open lamp fault.....what is this

only code that pops up on ecu...and dont know what it is or how to fix it

wistech · #14 Post by **wistech** » Tue Feb 23, 2010 1:34 am

Remove the relay in the ecu tray and see if it runs. These relays are not needed and can cause exactly your problem in cold weather. Of course all four quick connect valves need to be removed to allow for free fuel flow. Thats another big issue. Remove them and drill out the valves.

NRath · #15 Post by **NRath** » Tue Feb 23, 2010 5:14 pm

QUOTE (skippy4103 @ Feb 22 2010, 07:28 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

mil open lamp fault.....what is this

only code that pops up on ecu...and dont know what it is or how to fix it

That's always there. Nothing to fix. Ignore it.

skippy4103 · #16 Post by **skippy4103** » Wed Feb 24, 2010 4:52 pm

thats the only thing that shows up on the ecu faults....

iv guted the valves, changed the plug, pulled the relay,replaced the fuel pump, looked at every wire to make sure it was conected,

the only thing im haveing troubles with is the d and m kit...everytime i try to upload the map it freezs and times out... i took off the starter cable and held in the start buttin to keep the ecu on and stlill same problem...

does anyone have any more idles to cheak...???

NRath · #17 Post by **NRath** » Wed Feb 24, 2010 5:10 pm

Take a look at fuel pressure. The regulators can get nasty inside. If it's not holding back enough pressure, it may run fine at low rpms, but not at higher. You can take it apart. checking fuel pressure first would be ideal, though.

skippy4103 · #18 Post by **skippy4103** » Wed Feb 24, 2010 5:17 pm

is there a fuel reg that i can buy from like advance auto parts to replace the stock one

wistech · #19 Post by **wistech** » Wed Feb 24, 2010 5:29 pm

QUOTE (skippy4103 @ Feb 24 2010, 10:52 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

thats the only thing that shows up on the ecu faults....

iv guted the valves, changed the plug, pulled the relay,replaced the fuel pump, looked at every wire to make sure it was conected,

the only thing im haveing troubles with is the d and m kit...everytime i try to upload the map it freezs and times out... i took off the starter cable and held in the start buttin to keep the ecu on and stlill same problem...

does anyone have any more idles to cheak...???

Have you monitored the TPS by watching it on the monitor screen and slowly moved the throttle from zero to 100percent? Any dead spots or erratic changes in the tps reading will quiclky show up.
You can disassemble and clean the fuel pressure regulator Remove the snap ring inside the plastic body and pull it out.
Dont go buying parts on the off chance that it might be bad.
One other thing did you check your flywheel to be sure it hasnt spun on hub. A spun flywheel may start but run crappy at high rpms.

NRath · #20 Post by **NRath** » Wed Feb 24, 2010 5:41 pm

I didn't see any mention of replacing the fuel filter...

Cannondale recommended every 5 hours! That's a little overkill, in my experience. But it gives you the idea they should be changed frequently.