starting problems
The only thing wrong with the pic kdeal posted is the exhaust timing pin location on the exhaust cam. The pin should be in 2 holes over counterclockwise from where they are in the pic. That would be for stock base timing. Thats if you bother or care to check the cam to gear timing. I suspect most never take thier cams apart unless to update the decomp.
The truly best way to make sure you never have this problem is to degree you cams in. It????????s very easy and once done you know its done right. Harbor Freight has some cheap tools to do it with. When you have hundreds or even thousands in a motor what????????s $30 to $50 to make it 100% right. And the motor will at its best. Bad cam timing can wipe out your valves. Once that happens your tools cold have paid for them self????????s already. I apologize if it sounds like I'm coming off like a jerk it????????s not what I????????m doing.
QUOTE (claas900 @ Feb 10 2007, 12:02 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The truly best way to make sure you never have this problem is to degree you cams in. It????????s very easy and once done you know its done right. Harbor Freight has some cheap tools to do it with. When you have hundreds or even thousands in a motor what????????s $30 to $50 to make it 100% right. And the motor will at its best. Bad cam timing can wipe out your valves. Once that happens your tools cold have paid for them self????????s already. I apologize if it sounds like I'm coming off like a jerk it????????s not what I????????m doing.
I agree, but respectfully disagree as well. A motor that is 2-4 degrees off will run like a pig, but will not damage your valves. You would have to be a tooth off on the gear set to get into that arena. The factory actually gives you a + or - 2 degrees option from the factory. We have run them both ways and each has it's benefits & drawbacks.
QUOTE (kdeal @ Feb 10 2007, 10:23 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I agree, but respectfully disagree as well. A motor that is 2-4 degrees off will run like a pig, but will not damage your valves. You would have to be a tooth off on the gear set to get into that arena. The factory actually gives you a + or - 2 degrees option from the factory. We have run them both ways and each has it's benefits & drawbacks.
yeah I agree with you,the book does have some lee way. But for a motor to not even run its got to be way off,maybe even enoughf off to do some damage.
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cannondale27
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QUOTE (claas900 @ Feb 10 2007, 05:13 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
yeah I agree with you,the book does have some lee way. But for a motor to not even run its got to be way off,maybe even enoughf off to do some damage.
Class,
I know where you were coming from though... I have a motor that has a lot of goodies and it doesn't pull hard until the revs build up. I'll bet the cams are retarded a little too much. I do agree that they must be done. But look at all the motors that weren't done in the beginning....It was a crap shoot before. You could build two identical motors and have them run completely different!
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cannondale27
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Also dont forget that most new cams are non adjustable the easy way with pins and some new cams are WAAAY off which will kill power.When at factory for training they told us to degree in all cams.Not however saying that you should shoot for stock specs in manual.(106,106)I personally dont like that spec for riding I do.But that is a personal thing and a few deg either way has not been proven to improve or hurt MAX power.Just changes where and how it occurs.I believe factory experimented with cam timing and manual isnt what they timed most motors at.As matter of fact have not heard of any factory motors with manual specs.