Cannondaleriders

I recently installed +3 LSR a arms. I bought dual stainless brake lines for the front. For the past three nights after work I have been trying to bleed the brake, but I still have no luck. I keep on getting more air bubbles our of the bleed screws. I have tried several methods with no luck.

1. I have removed the banjo bolt at the master, sealing the master with a shop towel and then pumping the handle until all the air is out of the master. Once I build pressure in the handle I put the banjo back on, but then I get air coming out of the calipers.

2. I have tried pumping the handle while tightening and un tightening the banjo and bleed screw at the caliper. I will get period of fluid streaming out and also period of just air.

3. I then bought a one person bleed kit. (bottle with a hose attachment) I moved the position of the calipers so that the bleed screw was higher then before (haydug's method) and then hooked the hose to the bleeder screw. I see fluid and bubbles coming out of the screw when I pump the handle. I did this for about 2 hours last night, but the bubbles did not stop. I am getting frustrated. Should I stay patient and just keep at it until there are no more bubbles? This method seemed to work best.

I have also tried zip tie to the handle and letting it sit over night. I have not had any success with that method. Am I doing something wrong or is there a lot of air built up in my system? I have thought about buying one of those hand vacuum pumps to help suck all the fluid and air faster. Anyone ever use those?

If I don't get this fixed tonight I may go riding this weekend without front brakes.

I've always had trouble with duel brake lines. I've also always had to put two church washers between the brake lines on the master. Sometimes it helps to collapse the caliper.

Squeze the handle, hold it, crack the blead screw. tighten the bleed screw, release the handle.

Repeat until a solid stream comes out.

Move to next caliper and follow same procedure.

Repeat for both calipers to ensure air didn't transfer to the other line while doing the oposite side.

I wonder if it would help to tip the quad so one caliper is higher than the other. then bleed the lowest one first. This may trap the air better?

Just a thought

Here are my methods and they have worked every time. I use a syringe and clear hose. Place the hose on the bleed screw. Remove master cylinder cover (leave it off until process is complete). Make sure the master cylinder is full and keep a close eye on the level throughout the process. Keep filling it as needed and don't let it get too low at any point. Crack the bleed screw and draw with the syringe. Then tighten the bleed screw and refill the master cylinder. Repeat this process until no more air bubbles come out. Then move to the other caliper. As Peterock suggested, you may want repeat for both calipers to ensure air didn't transfer from one line to the other.

Alternatively, you can fill the syringe and push the fluid from the caliper, through the bleed screw, toward the master cylinder. If you use this method you need to make sure there is no air in the syringe or clear hose or you'll be introducing air into the lines. I use this method for when I'm installing new lines. I use the first method when I'm just bleeding lines that just feel a little spongy and when I suspect just a little air is in them.

I've also used the method described by Peterock. His method will work, but because I'm too impatient, I prefer the syringe method. You can also get a bleeding suction pump from an automotive store. I think they are called a mini-vac and work similar to the syringe. They have a hand pump that sucks the fluid/air out of the bleed screw.

FYI - You may know this, but if you pump the lever with the bleed screw cracked you'll be pulling air into the caliper when releasing the lever. Hence, Peterock's description of holding the lever in while cracking and tightening the bleed screw.

Do you think if you could use three people it might work.One to pump the break lever and one person on each caliper,to open the bleed valves at the same time.I dunno,you need brakes.Going to St.Joe Sat?I will be there on the Kawi.

Also remember to start with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder. Not sure if it matters on the Dales since I can't remember offhand if the front brake lines are equal length. But we just did the brakes on a Rhino and didn't start in the right order and it was not working after many many tries. Started with the furthest away then it worked like a charm.