Cannondaleriders

Best / Easiest Place to wire in the positive wire on my kill switch? (pro armour)

Do you have a kill switch that is normally closed? NC meaning that if the clip is not in, there is continuity across the 2 terminals/wires. I think that's the standard for most kill switches on the Jab bikes. If so, it won't work on the C'dale. You need a normally open switch for the C'dale which is kind of rare. Pro Armour may have an NC switch now, but at one time they didn't. With a normally open switch, when the clip isn't in, the circuit is open.

Based on the fact you're asking where to put a specific wire, I'd guess you've got an NC switch. Standard wiring for the C'dale switch has it basically in series with the stop/run switch on the handlebars. That means when the clip is in the kill switch, power has to flow through it which won't happen with a NC switch.

If you've got the right kind of switch, there's a pile of wires in front/above the radiator that has a couple bullet connectors that you can simply pull apart and plug the 2 kill switch wires into the 2 loose ends (may need to add bullets to the ends of your killswitch). Following the Run/Stop switch wires down will get you to the connectors I'm talking about. And don't forget to fill the connectors with di-electric grease before connecting them. A little electrical tape around them will insure they never come apart, too.

Check it out and see what you've got.

....OOPS!,....good comments, but Nrath just has his NC vs NO mixed up this morning

When our switch is activated, it goes to the not-normal state, FYI. Our run circuit must have continuity to run as
mentioned, and any Killswitch must be Normally Closed, until the tether is yanked to not-normal Open (same as per the OEM Pingle NC Killswitch, Model 610).

You would insert a killswitch anywhere between the Keyswitch OUT and the Run-stop IN. But there are 2 locations to choose from. You can install between the key-out Violet and the harness Black ----- or between the same harness Black (where it exits the harness again) and the RunStop Black. The most common place is between the harness Black and the RunStop Black. But then again, you can also remove the RunStop completely, and subsitute that with the Killswitch between the harness Black and the harness Brown -- then you would routinely turn the machine off with the ignition key.

Im not really too sure on this nc no termage either.... Does any know know if the pro armour kill switch can be used? Or what one i need?

If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can check your switch to see which position will allow power to flow through the switch. If power will flow through the switch when the clip is in, you can use it.

If you don't have a meter, you could rig something up with a battery and a light bulb.

Yep, I botched that statement up. The rest of it was accurate.

It should've said, "Pro Armor may have an NO switch now, but at one time they didn't."

The NC / NO thing can be confusing until you get to see it first hand. Normally closed, like the jap bikes use, means in the resting position (clip out in this instance) the circuit is closed meaning that power will flow through it. Generally on the Jappers, the coil signal is sent to ground through the closed circuit when the clip comes out. This kills the spark to the coil/plug.

Normally Open means the circuit is open when the switch is in it's resting position meaning that power will not flow through it. When you put the clip in, the circuit "closes" which will allow power to flow through it. This is what the Cannondale needs. My guess is that if you wired up a standard Pro Armor kill switch into a 'dale, it'll blow the fuse.

What model # of Pro Armor switch do you have. They probably tell in the spec what type of switch it is.

All that said, I wonder if the new FI Jappers use the same type kill switch as the older ones? Anyone know? Just curious.

Kickstart machines with a coil igniton use Normally Open. Normally Open switches have been available for years in every brand. Our machines, and other newer battery-ignition machines use Normally Closed.

This has been a point of confusion for MANY years, and I think I might have just discovered part of the problem; Dennis Kirk, a very mainstream supplier, has had the Off-Road Catalog and website WRONG!!.
Read this description carefully,...which is still on the website at this time:

Manufacturer: Pro Design
Dennis Kirk Part #: 21799
Pro Design Lanyard Kill Switch : Manufacturer part # PD100A - High-quality kill switch is used by top professionals across the country. Attach lanyard kill switch to wrist or chest protector. Replacement lanyards available separately. , NOTE: This tether has a normally open switch, to see if this is correct for your machine you must perform the following test, , 1. Locate the two wires going to the kill switch, 2. With switch in run position test for continuity between wires, 3. If you do not have continuity this tether switch will not work for your machine, 4. If you do have continuity this tether switch will not work for your machine - can use tether switch part numbers 21-0426, 21-0427, 21-0428 or 21-0438 (handlebar mount) or 21-0034 (body mounted switch) and 21-214 (cap). PD100A

You can see from above items 3 and 4, this switch is described as not working on ANY machine!.... so guys are obviously getting confused. Several other part descriptions on that same site have been found to be wrong also. I just got off the phone with them, and they are in the process of making corrections.

Here is a correct description on the same site.

Manufacturer: Gunnar
Dennis Kirk Part #: 210438
Gunnar Tether Kill Switch, Normally Open: Manufacturer part # 1013 - Tether kill switch is easy to install - plugs into most machines. Narrow design, installs on slightly curved portion of the bars. Housing O-ring weatherproofed. Matching lanyard included. Replacement lanyard available separately. This tether is normally open. To see if this is correct for your machine you must perform the following test. 1. Locate the two wires going to your machine's kill switch. 2. With the kill switch in the run position, test for continuity between the two wires. 3. If you DO NOT have continuity, this tether switch WILL work for your machine. 4. If you DO have continuity, this tether WILL NOT work for your machine,

If you buy a Killswitch, make sure it is Normally Closed. And I'll repeat, our OEM switch is the Pingel, Normally Closed part 610. I used to stock and sell them until they jacked the prices up so high. I have a good alternate now for less than half the price, and with mated connectors for your chosen install.

how much do you sell you switch for boomer?
pm me

$35 as prepped for your harness. Just email your harness Rev Number, and whether you will still be using your same Run-Stop switch with it. Mine is only for mounting into the Keyplate. I don't have a bar mount version.

If you do in fact have a ProDesign Normally Open switch, you can easily sell it to anyone with a stator-coil kickstart machine. I have one of those here that I bought 5 years ago for my first machine -- OFF of a Cannondale -- yeah right,...... the ebay seller must have pulled it off because he bought the wrong one!!! It did not work of course, and he probably got it from Dennis Kirk!

I'd also add that getting something other than a Pingel may be a good idea. I've used Pingels on a couple C'dales and on more than one occasion, they haven't worked. Fortunately, when I've needed them the most (i.e. quad flipping on a trail on the side of a mountain!) it did work. They need a better seal design, they get contaminated pretty easy.