R&S Performance in Indiana

Bring all of your questions about the Cannondale quad here!
Post Reply
Message
Author
sdhow
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#1 Post by sdhow »

Does anyone know what's up with R&S?

Got someone to answer a few weeks back, said they'd call me back and got nothing. Now no one answers. Are they still selling C-dale parts?

cannondale32
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#2 Post by cannondale32 »

I've tried calling before and never had anyone answer, I thought they were out of business but hopefully someone more knowledgeable will chime in

sdhow
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#3 Post by sdhow »

Website is still active, but...figured someone on here would know something...

wistech
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#4 Post by wistech »

I think they have been out of the Cannondale scene since 2004 but it is nice that they keep the web site from then up. The tech tips is cool but the engine removal method is a bit more time consuming .

sdhow
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#5 Post by sdhow »

QUOTE (Wistech @ Jan 28 2012, 11:51 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I think they have been out of the Cannondale scene since 2004 but it is nice that they keep the web site from then up. The tech tips is cool but the engine removal method is a bit more time consuming .



Is there a faster way to remove the engine that is detailed somewhere online?

Does anyone know of a method to remove the crankcase (left side) cover without pulling the whole engine?

Canniboomer
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#6 Post by Canniboomer »

I remove and install motors with a floor jack, using some anti-skid type of crossboard under the cradle.
After lowered, you can roll it out to the left side -- it's quite easy after the first time.
A second person on the right side can be helpful at first, to watch and help steady things, and make sure you don't forget to disconnect something -- like the bleeder hose! (often forgotten = cracked bottle nipple).

sdhow
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#7 Post by sdhow »

QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Jan 30 2012, 07:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I remove and install motors with a floor jack, using some anti-skid type of crossboard under the cradle.
After lowered, you can roll it out to the left side -- it's quite easy after the first time.
A second person on the right side can be helpful at first, to watch and help steady things, and make sure you don't forget to disconnect something -- like the bleeder hose! (often forgotten = cracked bottle nipple).



Next time you do one, it would be awesome if you could take some pics and walk us through it online. By floor jack, do you mean a motorcycle/atv jack or a traditional floor jack? I know Brad has told me it only takes him an hour, and I'm sure for you guys that do it all the time it's a snap. Experience is priceless...but for the DIYers, the internet has been a godsend!!! Thanks for all you do for the C-dale community!

cannondale32
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#8 Post by cannondale32 »

I did it my first time and basically prepped everything (breaking everything loose, and disconnecting wires,) and I did it for 3 hours one night and about an hour to actually pull it out. We left the exhaust on

wistech
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#9 Post by wistech »

If the quad is already updated with the fuel regulator relocated ,pod filter I can get an engine out in 20 minutes if I am motivated. Not saying Im motivated to do so though.
Just a few tips.
Leave the radiator/fan in ,hang the rear grab bar from the ceiling by a strap then you can lower the engine cradle and all with a floor jack or quad lift. Leave the battery hooked up and remove it connected to the starter together. I do pull the rear shock off at the top and get the head pipe off. Remove the injectors still connected to the lines.

claas900
Posts: 0
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#10 Post by claas900 »

I never even pull the plastic off any more. Having the filter right on the TB is nice to have. I take off the head light cover to remove the bleeder hose is about it. I have my rad spaced/remounted forward about 1/2" along with the fan. The TB stays with the bike. The coil wire is long enough so you can pull it out or unplug it once the motor is down a ways.
I do take off the muffler, drop the motor a few inch's then take off the head pipe, rear shock stays mounted. I lock up the front brakes to help keep the bike in place. For me the biggest PITA is the Batt. On one of my bikes I have the Batt mounted in the ECU tray, thats a nice way to have it.

Post Reply