Hello riders, i'm portuguese and I have a Cannondale but she insists on not working, you know a flywheel from another bike that compatible with Cannondale? Anyone know a solution to this problem?!
Grats
Hellp Me Please!! Flywheel Problem!
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Canniboomer
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The flywheel can spin on itself. The outer aluminum can shift from the steel core. The keyway notch should align with the right half of the "C" in cannondale. At piston top dead center, TDC, the "C" should point straight upward toward the sparkplug... that would also verify that the woodruff key is not sheared.
I can mail a New flywheel and key to almost anywhere in the world for less than $100 FYI. A precision balanced flywheel is extra, and they have shown to last longer without spinning.
I can mail a New flywheel and key to almost anywhere in the world for less than $100 FYI. A precision balanced flywheel is extra, and they have shown to last longer without spinning.
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jesshamner
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QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Jun 21 2012, 06:32 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
The flywheel can spin on itself. The outer aluminum can shift from the steel core. The keyway notch should align with the right half of the "C" in cannondale. At piston top dead center, TDC, the "C" should point straight upward toward the sparkplug... that would also verify that the woodruff key is not sheared.
I can mail a New flywheel and key to almost anywhere in the world for less than $100 FYI. A precision balanced flywheel is extra, and they have shown to last longer without spinning.
I can mail a New flywheel and key to almost anywhere in the world for less than $100 FYI. A precision balanced flywheel is extra, and they have shown to last longer without spinning.
Hello
Yes canniboomer is that problem, the aluminium part spin around steel. i read in internet and foruns that problem is usualy in this moto
at this moment i'm trying resolve this problem with an "invection" in the flywhell, and if i can resolve the problem i tell you the way, but if i can't the best solution is buy your flywhell. wait 3 or 4 days and i tell you.Sorry the language, i'm not a expert in english
I have two problems with the flywhells, is one that runs about himself and other i have another one but the flywheel iman is a little crashed and can not generate enough current to charge the battery when turn on the lights and the battery dies. Another problem is that even when I go to walk,simply is no power and I'm excited again k injection pump for her return to work in progress. Have checked the relay netx to the ECU and is working well, what can cause this failure?
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Canniboomer
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please click this link... I think the S-1000 ECU is damaged, and that is caused by touching at the pump connector wires IFF the pigtail is still connected to the main harness.
http://www.cannondaleriders.com/forums/ind...t=0#entry229527
Also, you should check the stator output wires behind the flywheel, for chafing under the sharp clip, or heat-melting together = poor charging. "Also check the main harness for any loose grounds (left side of Fuel Pressure Reg).
Also, you should check the underside of flywheel for any evidence of rubbing against the stator.
Here is that other Service Bulletin:
http://www.cannondaleriders.com/forums/ind...t=0#entry229527
Also, you should check the stator output wires behind the flywheel, for chafing under the sharp clip, or heat-melting together = poor charging. "Also check the main harness for any loose grounds (left side of Fuel Pressure Reg).
Also, you should check the underside of flywheel for any evidence of rubbing against the stator.
Here is that other Service Bulletin:
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Canniboomer
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
You could find an SEM Husaberg flywheel to the fit the crank, and a mating stator that MIGHT fit the case and not rub on the flywheel -- but our flywheel also activates the crank sensor for ignition timing at a specific blip-point of the flywheel magnet, and the sensor location,...so any alternate OEM flywheel will NOT work. Don't waste your time -- that has ALL been researched many years ago.
If the machine runs and you have poor charging, it is not likely caused by just a partially nicked magnet on the flywheel -- that is instead probably caused by a stator wires issue, a Vreg problem, or the battery - or cables, or loose connections. Also double-check for how the flywheel magnet may have been damaged, or post some pics of how bad it may be. Is a crank bearing going out?... is the crank moving left-right or up-down?, other symptoms, machine vibrations?
Note many battery cables are in poor condition by now, from the crimped-only connections and some cable corroding after 10 years -- we replace them quite often these days.
When the machine is up and running, check for good charging volts over 13 and bumping up past 14 volts when revved. If you live overseas, or anywhere really, you should have a spare flywheel handy,.... and they are quite cheap compared to other brands.
If the machine runs and you have poor charging, it is not likely caused by just a partially nicked magnet on the flywheel -- that is instead probably caused by a stator wires issue, a Vreg problem, or the battery - or cables, or loose connections. Also double-check for how the flywheel magnet may have been damaged, or post some pics of how bad it may be. Is a crank bearing going out?... is the crank moving left-right or up-down?, other symptoms, machine vibrations?
Note many battery cables are in poor condition by now, from the crimped-only connections and some cable corroding after 10 years -- we replace them quite often these days.
When the machine is up and running, check for good charging volts over 13 and bumping up past 14 volts when revved. If you live overseas, or anywhere really, you should have a spare flywheel handy,.... and they are quite cheap compared to other brands.