Engine removal
Does anyone have a tech manual type procedure for removing an engine from a quad or a picture version that they use for reference? About to tear into it for the first time and some sort of checklist or illustrated parts breakdown would be nice. I have the engine manual and Ohlins manual, but would be nice if there was something like that for the rest of the machine. For the rest of the stuff that needs to be done to it.
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speedracer
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
I have gone by this and it is a good guide...
Cannondale Quad Engine Removal
Removing your engine as outlined below allows you to remove your engine without removing your airbox, radiator, fan, or throttle body. It is a modification of the technique used by R and S Performance, which is available on their website. This technique does take some finesse. Use it at your own risk, and if something don't seem right, don???t do it.
PREP
1 Place quad on flat surface with plenty of space to the left side, as that is where the engine will come out.
2 Apply parking brake.
3 Drain fluids, including:
?? Transmission fluid.
?? Engine oil, including spars.
?? Remove oil filter.
?? Coolant including radiator from radiator drain plug and coolant elbow drain.
PLASTIC
1 Remove front fenders, seat, rear fenders, spar covers, and fuel cell--pull fuel cell vent hose from headset and be careful not to damage quick disconnects. I find a pair of needle nosed vice grips applied lightly helps with the removal and installation of the quick disconnects.
SUSPENSION
1 Remove upper shock strut bolt.
2 Loosen lower shock strut bolt.
3 Remove chain--now is a good time to inspect your swingarm chain buffer.
4 Remove subframe cross braces.
5 Remove upper shock mount bolt
6 Lift up rear of quad with one hand, and with the other hand, swing rear shock back, rotate 1/4 turn so that reservoir faces rearward and brace it under the subframe cross member. Place a shop rag between the shock and cross member.
7 Remove exhaust--including the two muffler mount bolts and the 4 header bolts, which can be accessed straight-on from the rear of the quad using a 1/4 inch drive extension and the appropriate sized socket.
ELECTRICAL
I found that almost all my electrical connections were factory labeled. If yours are not, spend a minute or two and label the connections. If you forget to do this, most of the connectors are obvious if you look at the number of pins in the connection, the length of the wire, etc. But before doing anything electrical, please remove the fuse.
1 Clip Zip Ties, noting what they held and to where they were affixed.
2 Remove FUSE.
3 Clip zip tie and remove coil lead.
4 From RIGHT of vehicle remove:
?? Crank position sensor lead
?? Coolant sensor lead.
?? Right injector lead
?? Stator wire to ECU connection--located under electronics tray.
?? Negative battery lead.
?? Right side battery strap bolt.
5 From LEFT side of vehicle:
?? Disconnect the two positive battery connections--mark which is which, because they look the same.
?? Disconnect positive starter lead.
?? Disconnect left injector lead.
?? Unbolt the left side battery strap bolt.
?? Remove Battery and strap as a unit from the left side.
6 Remove battery tray, noting the washers under the two bolts nearest the front engine mount.
HOSES, INJECTORS, INTAKE, OH MY
1 From LEFT unbolt the two injector retainer clips--5.5mm bolts.
2 Gently pop off clips with a flat blade screw driver, approach from the respective sides.
3 Gently wiggle injectors out of their ports in the intake.
4 Disconnect the oil return line in rear of left side of engine.
5 On the RIGHT, disconnect:
?? Coolant hose as it connects to impeller housing
?? Coolant hose as it connects to coolant elbow.
?? Radiator self bleeder hose as it inserts to top of coolant resivoir--if yours doesn???t have a hose clamp there, replace spring clip with hose clamp when reinstalling.
?? Oil hose as it connects to starter housing.
?? Oil hose as it connects below countershaft sprocket housing.
?? Oil hose as it connects to cam cover.
?? Clutch hydraulic line as it connects to slave cylinder.
6 Loosen the lowest of the three intake/throttle body boot clamps, which holds throttle body boot to intake manifold. You can approach this from the right of the quad with a long, thin screw driver.
DROPPING THE ENGINE
1 Place a tie-down strap around intake manifold and frame such that there are no wires of hoses between the strap and the frame. Locate the strap so that it is below the injector clip studs in the "elbow" of the manifold. Cinch it snug. This will prevent engine from falling forward when you disconnect the engine cradle and swingarm.
2 Remove the eight engine cradle bolts.
3 Locate floor jack under the engine cradle in the middle of the skid plate. Use a shop rag between the jack and the plate.
4 Gently raise the jack until it contacts the plate and applies slight upward pressure.
5 Drive the swingarm bolt out until it just clears the right side of the rear motor mount. You may need to wiggle the quad back and forth and/or slightly raise or lower the jack to achieve this. The bolt slides pretty easily when the forces are off of it--i.e. palming a large Phillips screwdriver should drive it right out. This leaves the swingarm connected by the right side to the frame while freeing the motor mount. The rear of the quad is now supported by the shock you have braced under the subframe cross member and the right side of the swingarm/frame. You can put a piece of dowel through the left side frame/swingarm to support it, but you don???t have to.
6 This takes some finesse. Lower the jack about 1/2 centimeter and observe the engine movement. I always keep one hand on the engine to stabilize it while adjusting the jack or tie-down Next slightly loosen the tie-down strap, and observe engine movement. Now, look at the manifold boot to manifold connection, the boot should start to separate from the manifold. Check this after each movement until the two have separated. Initially, you want the engine to drop down and slightly forward while preventing axial rotation. This will ensure that you don???t gouge your radiator or radiator fan. Continue to alternate between the jack and tie-down to squarely lower the engine. It is also important to periodically check that you are not hung up on any hoses or wires. Continue lowering the engine until it is free of the frame then remove it from the left side of the vehicle.
REINSTALLATION
Basically the reverse of the above. You will use the jack and tie down again. There are three difficult parts. The first is seating the intake manifold. To facilitate this, I spray the mating surfaces of the inside of the boot and the outside of the manifold with silicone so it slides easily. I get the engine up in the frame and insert the rear motor mount bolt before attempting to seat it. Then, you have to know there is a notched tit on the front/forward side of the manifold boot that lines up with an alignment point on the manifold. This tit can fold inward and prevent the boot from seating properly on the manifold, so you may need to use your finger to guide this tit to the outside of the manifold as you raise and lower the engine to seat it. You also have to loosen, but not remove, the two front airbox mount bolts located at the rear of the electronics tray. This gives you some wiggle room. Make sure the boot is seated evenly and thoroughly before tightening clamp. The second difficult part is getting the wire harness to fall in the right place. Just pay attention to it as you raise the engine and make sure it doesn???t get pinched. Third, the coolant vent hose needs to be routed up between the oil line and fuel return lines in a neutral position, it goes straight up from the impeller housing to the coolant reservoir. Take a minute and check this as you raise your engine. This may vary depending on whether or not you have the breather update, but as long as it is in a neutral position, you are home free.
Cannondale Quad Engine Removal
Removing your engine as outlined below allows you to remove your engine without removing your airbox, radiator, fan, or throttle body. It is a modification of the technique used by R and S Performance, which is available on their website. This technique does take some finesse. Use it at your own risk, and if something don't seem right, don???t do it.
PREP
1 Place quad on flat surface with plenty of space to the left side, as that is where the engine will come out.
2 Apply parking brake.
3 Drain fluids, including:
?? Transmission fluid.
?? Engine oil, including spars.
?? Remove oil filter.
?? Coolant including radiator from radiator drain plug and coolant elbow drain.
PLASTIC
1 Remove front fenders, seat, rear fenders, spar covers, and fuel cell--pull fuel cell vent hose from headset and be careful not to damage quick disconnects. I find a pair of needle nosed vice grips applied lightly helps with the removal and installation of the quick disconnects.
SUSPENSION
1 Remove upper shock strut bolt.
2 Loosen lower shock strut bolt.
3 Remove chain--now is a good time to inspect your swingarm chain buffer.
4 Remove subframe cross braces.
5 Remove upper shock mount bolt
6 Lift up rear of quad with one hand, and with the other hand, swing rear shock back, rotate 1/4 turn so that reservoir faces rearward and brace it under the subframe cross member. Place a shop rag between the shock and cross member.
7 Remove exhaust--including the two muffler mount bolts and the 4 header bolts, which can be accessed straight-on from the rear of the quad using a 1/4 inch drive extension and the appropriate sized socket.
ELECTRICAL
I found that almost all my electrical connections were factory labeled. If yours are not, spend a minute or two and label the connections. If you forget to do this, most of the connectors are obvious if you look at the number of pins in the connection, the length of the wire, etc. But before doing anything electrical, please remove the fuse.
1 Clip Zip Ties, noting what they held and to where they were affixed.
2 Remove FUSE.
3 Clip zip tie and remove coil lead.
4 From RIGHT of vehicle remove:
?? Crank position sensor lead
?? Coolant sensor lead.
?? Right injector lead
?? Stator wire to ECU connection--located under electronics tray.
?? Negative battery lead.
?? Right side battery strap bolt.
5 From LEFT side of vehicle:
?? Disconnect the two positive battery connections--mark which is which, because they look the same.
?? Disconnect positive starter lead.
?? Disconnect left injector lead.
?? Unbolt the left side battery strap bolt.
?? Remove Battery and strap as a unit from the left side.
6 Remove battery tray, noting the washers under the two bolts nearest the front engine mount.
HOSES, INJECTORS, INTAKE, OH MY
1 From LEFT unbolt the two injector retainer clips--5.5mm bolts.
2 Gently pop off clips with a flat blade screw driver, approach from the respective sides.
3 Gently wiggle injectors out of their ports in the intake.
4 Disconnect the oil return line in rear of left side of engine.
5 On the RIGHT, disconnect:
?? Coolant hose as it connects to impeller housing
?? Coolant hose as it connects to coolant elbow.
?? Radiator self bleeder hose as it inserts to top of coolant resivoir--if yours doesn???t have a hose clamp there, replace spring clip with hose clamp when reinstalling.
?? Oil hose as it connects to starter housing.
?? Oil hose as it connects below countershaft sprocket housing.
?? Oil hose as it connects to cam cover.
?? Clutch hydraulic line as it connects to slave cylinder.
6 Loosen the lowest of the three intake/throttle body boot clamps, which holds throttle body boot to intake manifold. You can approach this from the right of the quad with a long, thin screw driver.
DROPPING THE ENGINE
1 Place a tie-down strap around intake manifold and frame such that there are no wires of hoses between the strap and the frame. Locate the strap so that it is below the injector clip studs in the "elbow" of the manifold. Cinch it snug. This will prevent engine from falling forward when you disconnect the engine cradle and swingarm.
2 Remove the eight engine cradle bolts.
3 Locate floor jack under the engine cradle in the middle of the skid plate. Use a shop rag between the jack and the plate.
4 Gently raise the jack until it contacts the plate and applies slight upward pressure.
5 Drive the swingarm bolt out until it just clears the right side of the rear motor mount. You may need to wiggle the quad back and forth and/or slightly raise or lower the jack to achieve this. The bolt slides pretty easily when the forces are off of it--i.e. palming a large Phillips screwdriver should drive it right out. This leaves the swingarm connected by the right side to the frame while freeing the motor mount. The rear of the quad is now supported by the shock you have braced under the subframe cross member and the right side of the swingarm/frame. You can put a piece of dowel through the left side frame/swingarm to support it, but you don???t have to.
6 This takes some finesse. Lower the jack about 1/2 centimeter and observe the engine movement. I always keep one hand on the engine to stabilize it while adjusting the jack or tie-down Next slightly loosen the tie-down strap, and observe engine movement. Now, look at the manifold boot to manifold connection, the boot should start to separate from the manifold. Check this after each movement until the two have separated. Initially, you want the engine to drop down and slightly forward while preventing axial rotation. This will ensure that you don???t gouge your radiator or radiator fan. Continue to alternate between the jack and tie-down to squarely lower the engine. It is also important to periodically check that you are not hung up on any hoses or wires. Continue lowering the engine until it is free of the frame then remove it from the left side of the vehicle.
REINSTALLATION
Basically the reverse of the above. You will use the jack and tie down again. There are three difficult parts. The first is seating the intake manifold. To facilitate this, I spray the mating surfaces of the inside of the boot and the outside of the manifold with silicone so it slides easily. I get the engine up in the frame and insert the rear motor mount bolt before attempting to seat it. Then, you have to know there is a notched tit on the front/forward side of the manifold boot that lines up with an alignment point on the manifold. This tit can fold inward and prevent the boot from seating properly on the manifold, so you may need to use your finger to guide this tit to the outside of the manifold as you raise and lower the engine to seat it. You also have to loosen, but not remove, the two front airbox mount bolts located at the rear of the electronics tray. This gives you some wiggle room. Make sure the boot is seated evenly and thoroughly before tightening clamp. The second difficult part is getting the wire harness to fall in the right place. Just pay attention to it as you raise the engine and make sure it doesn???t get pinched. Third, the coolant vent hose needs to be routed up between the oil line and fuel return lines in a neutral position, it goes straight up from the impeller housing to the coolant reservoir. Take a minute and check this as you raise your engine. This may vary depending on whether or not you have the breather update, but as long as it is in a neutral position, you are home free.