Canniboomer Direct Intake

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hogman · #61 Post by **hogman** » Mon May 22, 2006 9:05 pm

Ok thanks ill hook it up and just run it. Just wondering if it could be hooked up more directly by hooking the blue hose from the kit to the line that would have gone to the airbox instead of with the 4 way T the kit came with, and just leave all other vents hooked up as they would have been?

Canniboomer · #62 Post by **Canniboomer** » Mon May 22, 2006 9:26 pm

Yep, it's really anything-goes at this point, and per user preference for that plumbing -- But raising the lines up higher and away from the radiator heat and where you can see them is nice, wherever you end up orienting the lines. The normally-cracked end of the ECU line can usually be trimmed shorter, yanked out of the grommet, and layed up top now, etc.
If you guys also experiment, let us know your findings.

claas900 · #63 Post by **claas900** » Tue May 23, 2006 5:06 am

QUOTE (Canniboomer @ May 22 2006, 01:56 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Good question?....I ran a K&N for a while with that fitting attached through the chrome top...but the Outerwear was a hassle, and it did not seem to make any difference?...But it sure seems that Cannondale intended that fitting within the stock airbox to detect some lower pressure, and to draw "some" vacuum. We have just not yet been able to detect the change? And then, in 2003, they changed to the 4-way fitting which pushes some trannycase pressure into the same lines while running? which might counteract vacuum anyway, and suck those fumes into the throttle body?
In any case, placing the fitting up into the "sealed" ECU tray should detect some lower pressure up in there while moving forward -- and the faster you go, the more so-called "vacuum" is up in there. But still, it may not make a difference, and I wonder if the ECU's were ever programmed to react to those fluctuations. As for the fuel regulator, I have a test throttle body with a fitting installed and flush with the inner throat -- I'll run it this summer with that same line connected there, and a valve to change quickly back and forth --maybe we can confirm some performance changes in regard to those lines.

I did a small test one time, with a vacuum pump and gauge I don????????t remember the number but when I put vacuum to it with the bike running it did make a change, in fact it would even kill the bike. But if I remember right the bike never on its own create enough vacuum to let the ECU make any kind of change. So what I????????m saying is I don????????t think it needs the vacuum hocked up. But don????????t take this to the bank.

banzairx7 · #64 Post by **banzairx7** » Tue May 23, 2006 10:33 am

My thought on the fitting fro the vacuum line is it was meant to change the fuel settings under wot if the filter was clogging. As the filter got more dirty more vacuum would be pulled. The ecu would see a lower atmospheric pressure and reduce fuel, the FPR would see a slight vacuum and it to would reduce fuel. Then the A/F would stay correct as the filter clogged up.

cannondale27 · #65 Post by **cannondale27** » Tue May 23, 2006 11:43 am

Thats a good theory.Makes sense.On most applications the vacuum control isnt necessary unless a turbo or something of that sort is also used.Wistech hooked his up to manifold vacuum(below throttle plate in intake)worked very well to get his fuel leaned out at idle since he has limited adjustment with 500 ecu.He also just reaches down and disconnects it for a fast idle on cold start since 500 ECU doesnt have a IACV.Pretty slick!

banzairx7 · #66 Post by **banzairx7** » Wed May 24, 2006 4:30 pm

Was thinking more on this. You could come close to replicating the factory setup by putting a small barb in the plastic piece the filter attaches to. There is some space right below the filter where a barb could be mounted. This would eliminate the "blue" line with the small filter on it also.

Canniboomer · #67 Post by **Canniboomer** » Wed May 24, 2006 5:40 pm

Yep, that would do it. If we can detect some advantage to doing so, that feature could easily be changed, or even added to existing setups out there. The actual hole that pierces into the inlet funnel could be smaller than the tapped fitting, since there is plenty of thickness there with the flange, the epoxy layer, and then the funnel. I can try it both ways here -- above the throttle gate like you suggest, and below it. I tapped a throttle body here just below the gate to avoid oily fumes from coating the plate, but really haven't confirmed yet if the tranny vent fumes are messing up the plate or not.

banzairx7 · #68 Post by **banzairx7** » Tue May 30, 2006 11:23 pm

I changed the vent filter setup so that it went into the throttle body below the air filter but before the throttle plate.

I bought a double sided hose barb from mcmaster-carr-
#91355K81
Brass Hose Fitting Barb X Barb for 3/16" Hose Id
$3.93 per Pack of 5

Next drilled a 5/32 hole in the side of canniboomers filter adapter. The barb fitting tapped in nicely with a small hammer. Its a nice press fit in the hole and doesn't leak any air.

Also rouched up the plastic coupling with some 60 grit sand paper. The filter grabs on much better now.

Here are the pics

Canniboomer · #69 Post by **Canniboomer** » Wed May 31, 2006 4:32 am

That should work fine like that, if it stays firm -- liquid solder as nipple sealant would also help -- Looks good!

...and sanding the flange is a good idea, to help grip the filter base more firmly. Also, the inside rim must be oil-free before clamping, per UNI instructions.

Let us know if you can tell any difference.

banzairx7 · #70 Post by **banzairx7** » Wed May 31, 2006 10:38 am

I'm not expecting any performance increases from this. I'm just trying to replicate the factory routing. It does clean up the hoses a tiny bit too.