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Happyboy
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#21 Post by Happyboy »

The manual decomp I have been looking at is a valve that is attached to a drilled hold into the combustion chamber that when opened allows air to escape during the compression stroke. Then when started you just close the valve. A very very simple setup except you have to have access to the combustion chamber. I just can't see how this is possible for us with the stinking water jacket.

Happyboy
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#22 Post by Happyboy »

Here is a pic of what I have been looking at. I have talked with the builder of this on getting me one if I can find a spot to put it. So simple.


cannondale27
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#23 Post by cannondale27 »

Thats what Canniboomer had in mind also.He found a spot.Yes right through the water jacket.Using a combination of tight threads,special sealing washers and the good old Devils Blood Loctite I am willing to try.The third version would use a system sort of like on a old warrior lever mounted on valvecover but cable and hotstart lever instead.I will tell you what either one of these systems is going on or the new Deka is going to get a workout.Not running decomp on my trail/harescramble quad ever again.

proflow
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#24 Post by proflow »

Has anyone proved this set up yet ?
I have two Dale engines to assemble & would be interested if this mod works.

Also, I personally own 4 Deka Batts between Sea-Doo's & Harley's.
No contest in quality & performance for the money. I'm actually surprised they don't sell for more than they do.

Proflow

Canniboomer
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#25 Post by Canniboomer »

....from YTZ14S thread, fall of 2009:

We have all wasted a fortune on batteries by now guys. I spotted that YTZ14S several years ago and sold many while the price was still down near $100. Yes very powerful compared to the earlier tech wet acid, and there was some expected advantages to going with the AGM. But in looking back at that specific battery, they still have not handled the Cannondale vibration very well. Not bad, but not good enough, and many were installed with tighter pressure into the stock tray, since it's about 1/8" taller. But then the higher and higher cost to replace?, while Yuasa has really jacked up the prices...I think they retail like $150-ish by now?

Anyway, I just very recently discovered probably the best battery in the world for our machines. A few guys in the Cannondale universe have probably already been using it, but I suspect they never post about battery problems. I had overlooked it a couple of years ago, after seeing it named as an X-series and a number "9", and listed at only 120cca -- so of course, it appears in any search as just another battery, and exactly equal to our stock battery?

But NO!....this hummer is NOT the stock battery. First of all, it is indeed a pre-charged AGM and not a user-poured wet acid. Secondly, the US maker Deka here is so quiet and conservative, and gave it a rating only to match Yuasa 9 at 120cca. I visited my distributor warehouse last month, and we just grabbed one that had been on the shelf for 4 months,... the Midtronics analyzer said 224cca. I asked them wazzup? and the fella mentioned how they under-rate the batteries. He then showed me the same whopping difference on an auto sized battery -- just at random, and again it was sitting there with nearly twice the ccas of what was printed on the label.

Wayne I had been intending to post a blurb for this battery,... and not introducing here in your thread,....but, the timing is right so I'll continue, and there is plenty more to say:

- Same size as stock,...so it fits the stock tray without shimming and dremeling. The 14Z and Chinese knock-offs vary to 5mm taller and up to a troublesome 3mm longer.
- Heavier duty casing.
- Massive solid lead lug posts that extend deeply, and unique inner cross bracing.
- Built specifically for the highest vibration resistance without compromise.
- Stainless sems bolts that lock firmly, and are plenty long enough!...use 10mm hex or #3 phillips
- Posts are double-tapped!, yep 6mm side terminals also, for easy addition of a convenience charger, helmet light, or combo accessory pigtail.
- Solid Brass D-spacers for use of the side terminals.
- 50,000 cycles "paint-shaker tested" for Harley Davidson, and passed!...Harley approved and it's being used now by Harley OEM.
- Funny, but it comes in a rather plain and cheapie looking cardboard carton,...and would appear as a generic import on the shelf,... but inside the box, you immediately see the difference -- this battery is in a class by itself.
- Price?...........unbelievably cheap price? How?, we don't care how.....but this one is Very proudly made in the USA.

$ 69, in stock -- That's far less than the Yuasa stock battery!!!, half the price now of the Yuasa AGM, and even less than many Chinese AGM knock-offs....wow.
shipping $10 in the USA, and $42 to the UK...with room in the carton for other misc parts.

claas900
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#26 Post by claas900 »

I have a few buddies ruining the DEKA on there Honda's with very good luck. They do crank notable faster over a stock type battery.
Dave what do you know about there warranty?

Canniboomer
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#27 Post by Canniboomer »

Well peterock,.... that Batteries-Plus battery is just private-labeled and made by Deka, and is the exact same battery that you have been trying to find fault with here,.....but then you refer to another supplier of the same battery?, and within MY sponsor section?!....sheeesh?

Deka has little patience for claims against batteries that are not cared for properly. Tossing an unknown-state (probably drained already from cranking that bad motor) battery on a shelf for almost a year? would negate any warranty recovery anyway. I feel guilty if I leave a customer battery unattended for even 4 months, but I also don't dare to connect any battery to a so-called trickler for 24/7. The 3 main things that destroy these batteries are overcharging, undercharging, and vibration. Deka covers warranty for vibration without question since they built it specifically for that. But, they can also detect if a battery has been allowed to deep-drain sulfate to nothing, or if it was overcharged. Even these superb AGM batteries will eventually "dry-out" if overcharged, and no matter what brand they are. And in warmer weather, the shelf-life of any stored battery is shorter.
For warranty coverage, the battery has to be sent in for an evaluation, and Deka takes that very seriously. They will usually determine the reason for a failure, and will own up to any manufacturing defects. I have had no reports or complaints yet from the Deka batteries I have been selling since last November -- instead, only lots of feedback praise about that battery, and from many of your own customers Pete. Anyway, congrats on getting another Deka....it's just too bad it's coming from a company that has cost most of us many hundreds of $$$ over the years in all those lousy import batteries.

For the sometimes-recovery of a completely dead battery, I have also had luck before with C27's method. I brought back a dead Odyssey, and a Yuasa once that way,...your luck will probably depend on how that battery may have failed.

For now, I need to go ship a true Deka-labeled battery to the next lucky customer. Later guys.

cannondale27
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#28 Post by cannondale27 »

All true.Also if it has a way to get water(distilled) in it.Do it whether it says to or not.Saved two batteries that way both "sealed" one in kids LT80 its a real small one and going on its 6th year!Other was in street bike that wasnt run for over two years with batt left in it.Worth a shot.They really shouldnt call most batts sealed since they are not.They just are almost spillproof and dont offer a drain tube like they used to.The acid eventually evaporates even with best chargers and charging systems.Bike batt was a good 2inches low!

Canniboomer
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#29 Post by Canniboomer »

Thanks,...it's all cool.
You know I had a hard-to-believe coincidence after my post last week; I was out in the shop and noticed a stored machine with the both the key and run-stop switch left to ON.
So of course,....it had a dead battery, and the same Deka battery as discussed in this thread....bad timing!. Well, it had been sitting with the ignition ON for 2 months. So I go to connect a Deltran Battery Tender as usual, and get NOTHING = no reaction at all! Then I try a Yausa HotShot tender, again nothing. Dang!...I check it with an LED voltmeter and barely see a short blip at about 3 volts, and then nothing. So, I dig out and try a larger BatteryTender black box,.....again nothing!
Finally, I pull out my antique battery charger from Montgomery Ward, a plain old 6-amp at least 40 years old,...long before the days of smart circuitry for sure. I connected that clunky beast, and finally could barely detect a slight movement of the pointer, and could hear a very faint hum. After about 5 minutes, the pointer had moved about 2 more degrees, and the humming got louder. I then disconnected and hooked back to the BatteryTender = charging again normally. The next morning the battery was back to 13 volts.....I got lucky again smile.gif

Here is a very good read about batteries from Deka. Keep in mind while reading that the powersports battery from them is an "AGM", not Gel, and not wet-Electrolyte acid like other number "9" batteries out there.

proflow
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Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm

#30 Post by proflow »

I dunno why I tried this little trick one day but I did.
I have recovered a few DEAD batts in the past by hooking up my 12v jump box to them & then the Tender.
That way the charger doesn't fault under 3v & after a short amount of time the jump box can be pulled off.

BTW: Deka in all my quads & Harleys------Proflow

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