This is far more product than a Stage 8 kit. There are about 16 additional smaller bolts with the locking 2-pc cams, and Headlocks for the head studs... also, a flywheel lock is included, and a better stator-clip bolt/lock. I'm continually adding items, and the price is now $75. You should really consider to try a full set. All bolts are the next-size longer to accomodate the camset thickness, plus give a bit more thread penetration into the threaded bores. In most cases, no threadchasing or re-tapping is needed (or desirable, since it does more harm than good to our precious cases). But putting a slight "point" on the end of a bolt may be needed if you "feel" any hole is not threaded deeply enough from the factory. Loctite "262" or redpaste loctite should also be used, and also serves as a torque lubricant. Higher bolt torque is needed to take advantage of the CamLocks, and to make them bite for added locking. The bolts will then need more torque to remove than to tighten. The locking cams are completely re-useable, many times over. You will notice very minimal, if any, plate-shimmy fuzzing of the crankplate seal. Also, the aluminum plates will not wear down underneath the harder boltheads, as you commonly find in our older motors -- as that aluminum compresses and wears (blackened areas from bolt-head shimmy), the torque of any bolt actually gets less -- even if the bolt has not moved! With these locks, any movement is transferred to the mating surfaces of the 2 cams instead, which actually tighten and bind with vibration. As the cams bite to each surface at the higher torque, vibration cannot overcome the high-points of the locking cams, ...so the fasteners will tend to stay tight.
These locks are amazing hummers, with countless applications. They are handy for frame and cradle bolts, and wherever you can imagine. All sizes of camlocks for our machines are available, and at lower prices than the national wholesaler's. I also stock the unique metric sizes, rather than subbing SAE sizes for sloppy-fit usage on certain metric bolts.
Half-kits are also available, with everything needed to augment a Stage-8 kit, or to use with a factory Stud Update. Custom Kits are easily done, and cheaper if you already have threaded studs in your motor -- with those, we like to add a wider OD camlock under each nut -- whenever clearance is OK.
Engine bolt kit
QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Dec 20 2006, 11:41 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
This is far more product than a Stage 8 kit. There are about 16 additional smaller bolts with the locking 2-pc cams, and Headlocks for the head studs... also, a flywheel lock is included, and a better stator-clip bolt/lock. I'm continually adding items, and the price is now $75. You should really consider to try a full set. All bolts are the next-size longer to accomodate the camset thickness, plus give a bit more thread penetration into the threaded bores. In most cases, no threadchasing or re-tapping is needed (or desirable, since it can do more harm than good to our precious cases). But putting a slight "point" on the end of a bolt may be needed if you "feel" any hole is not threaded deeply enough from the factory. Loctite "262" or redpaste loctite should also be used, and also serves as a torque lubricant. Higher bolt torque is needed to take advantage of the CamLocks, and to make them bite for added locking. The bolts will then need more torque to remove than to tighten. The locking cams are completely re-useable, many times over. You should notice very minimal, if any, plate-shimmy fuzzing of the crankplate seal. Also, the aluminum plates will not wear down underneath the harder boltheads, as you commonly find in our older motors -- as that aluminum compresses and wears (blackened areas from bolt-head shimmy), the torque of any bolt actually gets less -- even if the bolt has not moved! With these locks, any movement is transferred to the mating surfaces of the 2 cams instead, which actually tighten and bind with vibration. As the cams bite to each surface at the higher torque, vibration cannot overcome the high-points of the locking cams, ...so the fasteners will tend to stay tight.
These locks are amazing hummers, with countless applications. They are handy for frame and cradle bolts, and wherever you can imagine. All sizes of camlocks for our machines are available, and at lower prices than the national wholesaler's. I also stock the unique metric sizes, rather than subbing SAE sizes for sloppy-fit usage on certain metric bolts.
Half-kits are also available, with everything needed to augment a Stage-8 kit, or to use with a factory Stud Update. Custom Kits are easily done, and cheaper if you already have threaded studs in your motor -- with those, we like to add a wider OD camlock under each nut -- whenever clearance is OK.
These locks are amazing hummers, with countless applications. They are handy for frame and cradle bolts, and wherever you can imagine. All sizes of camlocks for our machines are available, and at lower prices than the national wholesaler's. I also stock the unique metric sizes, rather than subbing SAE sizes for sloppy-fit usage on certain metric bolts.
Half-kits are also available, with everything needed to augment a Stage-8 kit, or to use with a factory Stud Update. Custom Kits are easily done, and cheaper if you already have threaded studs in your motor -- with those, we like to add a wider OD camlock under each nut -- whenever clearance is OK.
Dave put these on my motor and I havent heard or seen a single loose one yet, and they are now on everything: cradle, case bolts even the tiny ones they are awesome. He really researched these alot. I had the stage eight update in my motor and that was what let loose and ate my oil pump drives. I think this is the way to go!!!
hey dave, im wanting to do the major updates to my motor pretty soon, and i was wondering if you also sold the z400 crank bearing and the motor mount update kit? Im wanting to put your blue bolt kit in my motor, along with the other two updates mentioned. Any other very important updates that should come before any of these three? I have about a 200 dollar budget right now for the updates, so i was wanting to do the absolutely necessary updates first. Id also like to find out some prices of these updates. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Zack
And by the way, my cannondale speed is completly stock with no updates yet.
Thanks,
Zack
And by the way, my cannondale speed is completly stock with no updates yet.
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Canniboomer
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Yep I have the Z400 bearings and other updates in stock. You can get the full bolting kit, the Zbearing, and a Motor Mount kit for about $140, but you still need to budget for a trusted crank shop to do the bearing change-out and rebalance. And whatever else you may find in there -- sometimes the budget has to s t r e t c h .
QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Dec 27 2006, 12:21 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Yep I have the Z400 bearings and other updates in stock. You can get the full bolting kit, the Zbearing, and a Motor Mount kit for about $140, but you still need to budget for a trusted crank shop to do the bearing change-out and rebalance. And whatever else you may find in there -- sometimes the budget has to s t r e t c h .
So is the bearing change out probably the first and most important update i should do? and then the bolting kit?
QUOTE (Canniboomer @ May 29 2006, 07:32 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Re-posted pics:
Hey Dave! Glad to see my photos got put to good use.
Both kits I have installed have been GREAT!
My only 'concern' was that on BOTH motors, the bottom left bolts did not seem to bite and make the torque settings. This has to be a problem with the meat of the engine's threaded area since it was the exact same experience on two different units.
As I am sure you hear all the time, THANK YOU for making living with the Cannondale a realistic option!
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Canniboomer
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Thanks Steve!.....but it's really My pleasure.
As for the photo, I noticed the American Flag background in your shop, and just HAD to use that one! Thanks for sending it.
About any issue with a particular bolt hole, I have not heard of that before....but your early cases may have had shallow threads there as compared to most normal holes. We have found the overall bore depth to be plenty deep -- but any user should be attentive to a possible shallow threading within the bore.
If any hole is not threaded deeply enough already to handle the approx 3mm added net bolt length, you will feel the bolt get much harder before it even seats to the plate -- in that instance, you would want to remove that bolt and put a slight "point" on the end, as with spinning the end threads on a bench grinder. I've sent out about 40 kits by now, and used another dozen on different cases without a problem like you describe. So please email the specifics, and I'll get to checking that out, and with precautions to users,.... and thanks again.
pacrimdm@msn.com
As for the photo, I noticed the American Flag background in your shop, and just HAD to use that one! Thanks for sending it.
About any issue with a particular bolt hole, I have not heard of that before....but your early cases may have had shallow threads there as compared to most normal holes. We have found the overall bore depth to be plenty deep -- but any user should be attentive to a possible shallow threading within the bore.
If any hole is not threaded deeply enough already to handle the approx 3mm added net bolt length, you will feel the bolt get much harder before it even seats to the plate -- in that instance, you would want to remove that bolt and put a slight "point" on the end, as with spinning the end threads on a bench grinder. I've sent out about 40 kits by now, and used another dozen on different cases without a problem like you describe. So please email the specifics, and I'll get to checking that out, and with precautions to users,.... and thanks again.
pacrimdm@msn.com