What is this fuel line update that people are raving about?
and what is the cost?-Rich
Fuel Lines
I'll take a stab here. The factory fuel lines are getting old now and corroding. I had this happen to me and DNF'd a race b/c of it. To be safe, upgrade your lines w/newer and better ones. It's not expensive at all and WELL WORTH IT. Just make sure you've got lines made for high pressure EFI systems. Worth every penny.
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cannondale27
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cannondale27
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QUOTE (cannondale27 @ Jan 6 2007, 05:49 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I dont think he posted any of it yet.We were discussing it at group ride and I think some folks have it already.Not me though but it sounds real nice.
I have the petcock update on both quads and both bikes...awesome. You've never "heard" such a quiet fuel pump before - the open design of the petcock allows the fuel pumps to run as they were designed. Not a squeal from any of my fuel pumps and amazing flow on the tank return.
[attachment=1949:attachment][attachment=1950:attachment]
maybve this will help
QUOTE (Easy E @ Jan 6 2007, 05:34 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I have the petcock update on both quads and both bikes...awesome. You've never "heard" such a quiet fuel pump before - the open design of the petcock allows the fuel pumps to run as they were designed. Not a squeal from any of my fuel pumps and amazing flow on the tank return.
maybve this will help
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cannondale27
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Canniboomer
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Thanks guys..... Yep, sorry for being so late with posting any info! Several versions have evolved, depending on the model you have(dirtbikes), and the air intake setup(quads). The flowpath size is FOUR times of new stock fittings, and at least TWICE as large as "gutted" stock fittings.
...And these setups are MORE convenient. The fuel can be turned off within seconds, and without removing any plastics.
The in-line disconnects on each side are 1/4" full-open without valves, and retain the quick disconnect feature. Vapor lock should be eliminated, since no lines are routed over or around the motor. For the ATV's, the best upgrade involves sending out your fueltank (about $11 via priority mail), which is then returned to you ready to bolt on, with the following: Brass bulkhead fittings with viton tank seals, a new in-tank suction line, a tank-mounted (now 90-degree) outfeed petcock, injection rated pigtails with heat sheathing (now ceramic hi-temp and slim), fuel-rated disconnects with viton seals, a prepped pigtail line to a new filter with no-damage clamps, and brass or nickel-plated hole plugs (where the old fittings were).
Lower cost DIY kits, and a version for the stock air intake are available. All setups are $49 to $88. The in-house conversion uses different hardware as explained above, and with shipping included is $99 returned.
These are one-time permanent fixes to a lingering problem, and will relieve the strain on the fuelpump. You won't be forced to replace your stock fittings OFTEN (for about $50/pop) or gutting them and then losing some safety, storage, and convenience features. The pump will also run cooler, and likely draws less battery power, even while delivering more volume for a very consistent fuel pressure, and no drop-off when you nail the throttle. Starts, hot restarts, and priming are all faster with the rapid delivery. It's not rocket science; it just a way to give an automotive fuelpump an automotive fuelpath. However you do it, our machines sorely need it.
If this mod is done early enough, it can certainly save your fuelpump from a premature failure or weakened output.
If you have an older rear-sucking ATV tank, it's equally convertible to these frontal versions.
Note this picture of the ATV version is NOT the current setup. We are now using a 90-degree tankmounted petcock that drops the suction line directly downward to the fuelpump. But you can get a straight valve or other custom setups for alternate pump locations, and at the same cost.
...And these setups are MORE convenient. The fuel can be turned off within seconds, and without removing any plastics.
The in-line disconnects on each side are 1/4" full-open without valves, and retain the quick disconnect feature. Vapor lock should be eliminated, since no lines are routed over or around the motor. For the ATV's, the best upgrade involves sending out your fueltank (about $11 via priority mail), which is then returned to you ready to bolt on, with the following: Brass bulkhead fittings with viton tank seals, a new in-tank suction line, a tank-mounted (now 90-degree) outfeed petcock, injection rated pigtails with heat sheathing (now ceramic hi-temp and slim), fuel-rated disconnects with viton seals, a prepped pigtail line to a new filter with no-damage clamps, and brass or nickel-plated hole plugs (where the old fittings were).
Lower cost DIY kits, and a version for the stock air intake are available. All setups are $49 to $88. The in-house conversion uses different hardware as explained above, and with shipping included is $99 returned.
These are one-time permanent fixes to a lingering problem, and will relieve the strain on the fuelpump. You won't be forced to replace your stock fittings OFTEN (for about $50/pop) or gutting them and then losing some safety, storage, and convenience features. The pump will also run cooler, and likely draws less battery power, even while delivering more volume for a very consistent fuel pressure, and no drop-off when you nail the throttle. Starts, hot restarts, and priming are all faster with the rapid delivery. It's not rocket science; it just a way to give an automotive fuelpump an automotive fuelpath. However you do it, our machines sorely need it.
If this mod is done early enough, it can certainly save your fuelpump from a premature failure or weakened output.
If you have an older rear-sucking ATV tank, it's equally convertible to these frontal versions.
Note this picture of the ATV version is NOT the current setup. We are now using a 90-degree tankmounted petcock that drops the suction line directly downward to the fuelpump. But you can get a straight valve or other custom setups for alternate pump locations, and at the same cost.
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Canniboomer
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This picture is an X440s, with a coolant overflow in the stock fuelpump location (the fuelpump is relocated downward to front/center like the later models (not shown)). A similar setup is available for the C, S, X, and E440 models. The dirtbikes get a petcock on the return side also, to prevent draining of the knee section when disconnecting. All petcocks are rigidly tank-mounted into bushings, allowing for perfect alignment of the valve handles. The 1/4-turn handles don't move or shift position while riding.
The DIY Dirtbike Fueling Kit with Dual Petcocks is $75, and the No-spill HDPE Coolant Overflow Kit is $30. In a combo deal, they are both $99 for a savings of $6. The Piggyback filter and clamps are included. The silcone output line from the bottle is now black, FYI.
The DIY Dirtbike Fueling Kit with Dual Petcocks is $75, and the No-spill HDPE Coolant Overflow Kit is $30. In a combo deal, they are both $99 for a savings of $6. The Piggyback filter and clamps are included. The silcone output line from the bottle is now black, FYI.