frame flushing
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250rrider911
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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Canniboomer
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
I think the easiest and cheapest method includes:
A simple garden hose with a narrow nozzle.
One or 2 cans of Original Gunk engine degreaser (or any non-foaming spray degreaser).
An air hose may be handy.
Cheap drugstore or Walmart rubbing alcohol, one pint would be plenty, optional.
A heatgun or a blow dryer, optional.
Scrap bolts or something for plugging off dangling hoses.
A deadblow hammer, or a rubber mallet.
Leave all the hoses attached to the frame, as they are useful for clamping or press-holding to the water nozzle, and also easy to plug-off as you trade inlets and outlets.
Remember the right rear frame chamber is a separate section!
Pick any hose or opening for an inlet, and inject degreaser for several seconds, move it around with tilting,....and then follow with a full open water blast.
If you limit the outlets to one or two each time, you will get maximum turbulence and force, with plenty of dirty-brown junk coming out. Nothing can really beat the sheer volume and agitation of a full-open water hose. Don't bother using a pressure washer..... you will find there is no advantage except for the first few inches that the force actually hits against.....beyond that point, the flow of a pressure washer is much less, for less turbulence, totally NOT necessary. If you don't believe it?...just pop off the end tip on your pressure washer and pull the trigger = very wimpy flow as compared to a nozzled garden hose. Or if you want to siphon-inject some degreaser with the waterhose flow, you can use an Ortho hose-end sprayer for that.
As routes run clear, let it drain and do it again. You can keep trading off inlets with limited outlets each time. Don't hesitate to stand the roller up vertically, and even upside down, sideways whatever. You can knock the frame with a mallet as you go, just to be sure you get everything out.
Use an old toothbrush and the degreaser while you are at it, and you can detail the frame here and there. Use plenty of that spray each time, and work it into place with tilting etc, and followed by the water blast, until all of the routes run crystal clear. It will not hurt the grass.
OK, so now what?, you are left with clean and purge frame, with just a few small water pockets lingering here and there -- but that is NOT a big deal.
You can drain as much as you can by tilting, and then add some rubbing alcohol if you are in a big hurry -- shake and tilt around, and then use the air to help that drain and evaporate. That should dry out the frame rather quickly. Or you can rig up an air line with alternating inlets, or hook up to a necked-down shop vac. Or heck?,, just let it drain outside in a breeze for a a while. If you are waiting for weeks to get a crank or head back anyway, it will dry out soon enough.
A simple garden hose with a narrow nozzle.
One or 2 cans of Original Gunk engine degreaser (or any non-foaming spray degreaser).
An air hose may be handy.
Cheap drugstore or Walmart rubbing alcohol, one pint would be plenty, optional.
A heatgun or a blow dryer, optional.
Scrap bolts or something for plugging off dangling hoses.
A deadblow hammer, or a rubber mallet.
Leave all the hoses attached to the frame, as they are useful for clamping or press-holding to the water nozzle, and also easy to plug-off as you trade inlets and outlets.
Remember the right rear frame chamber is a separate section!
Pick any hose or opening for an inlet, and inject degreaser for several seconds, move it around with tilting,....and then follow with a full open water blast.
If you limit the outlets to one or two each time, you will get maximum turbulence and force, with plenty of dirty-brown junk coming out. Nothing can really beat the sheer volume and agitation of a full-open water hose. Don't bother using a pressure washer..... you will find there is no advantage except for the first few inches that the force actually hits against.....beyond that point, the flow of a pressure washer is much less, for less turbulence, totally NOT necessary. If you don't believe it?...just pop off the end tip on your pressure washer and pull the trigger = very wimpy flow as compared to a nozzled garden hose. Or if you want to siphon-inject some degreaser with the waterhose flow, you can use an Ortho hose-end sprayer for that.
As routes run clear, let it drain and do it again. You can keep trading off inlets with limited outlets each time. Don't hesitate to stand the roller up vertically, and even upside down, sideways whatever. You can knock the frame with a mallet as you go, just to be sure you get everything out.
Use an old toothbrush and the degreaser while you are at it, and you can detail the frame here and there. Use plenty of that spray each time, and work it into place with tilting etc, and followed by the water blast, until all of the routes run crystal clear. It will not hurt the grass.
OK, so now what?, you are left with clean and purge frame, with just a few small water pockets lingering here and there -- but that is NOT a big deal.
You can drain as much as you can by tilting, and then add some rubbing alcohol if you are in a big hurry -- shake and tilt around, and then use the air to help that drain and evaporate. That should dry out the frame rather quickly. Or you can rig up an air line with alternating inlets, or hook up to a necked-down shop vac. Or heck?,, just let it drain outside in a breeze for a a while. If you are waiting for weeks to get a crank or head back anyway, it will dry out soon enough.