I recieved my parts in Florida today at noon. I ordered them what time on saturday 4 in the afternoon. And he is like far from here FAST SERVICE. All where in nice bags marked with directions. Altho my problem wasn't solved its one thing down and with the help of Dave and some others my Cannondale will breath again.
GREAT SERVICE!!!!!!!!!!
A+++
o and if ya read this Dave I need some o rings for the gas tank quick disconnects. One of them ripped off before I could even really test the new coil allowing it to leak and good amount of gas as I tried to start it. I'm sure this didnt help it starting.
Thank you dave
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Canniboomer
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Hey thanks man....
I have the Cannondale white-dot viton fuel seals for el cheapo, yes. If you just pick up some postage, I can send some along.
But if your suction-side O-ring is leaking, then the machine probably won't start at all -- instead it will suck and pump too much infused air, and the return fuel stream won't be "clear" like normal. Just because you see activity in the fuel filter,....... that may mean nothing. You need to have a healthy and steady return flow to the tank, and running clear without bubbles or sputtering. It's good to peek inside the tank while cranking, idling, and blipping the throttle, to learn the differences between what is normal, and what is a problem.
If the return-side O-ring is leaking, but still also flowing back to the tank, then the motor will not care -- it can leak and leak, and the motor should run normally -- until something sparks and the machine bursts in flames!!
I have the Cannondale white-dot viton fuel seals for el cheapo, yes. If you just pick up some postage, I can send some along.
But if your suction-side O-ring is leaking, then the machine probably won't start at all -- instead it will suck and pump too much infused air, and the return fuel stream won't be "clear" like normal. Just because you see activity in the fuel filter,....... that may mean nothing. You need to have a healthy and steady return flow to the tank, and running clear without bubbles or sputtering. It's good to peek inside the tank while cranking, idling, and blipping the throttle, to learn the differences between what is normal, and what is a problem.
If the return-side O-ring is leaking, but still also flowing back to the tank, then the motor will not care -- it can leak and leak, and the motor should run normally -- until something sparks and the machine bursts in flames!!
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Canniboomer
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
If you probe the piston to the TDC position (by turning the flywheel manually), the "C" on the flywheel should point straight upward toward the spark plug hole. If that is OK, then both the flywheel AND the key are intact, no problem. So you do not even have to remove the flywheel nut to verify BOTH -- it just depends on what is faster or more convenient for you at the time -- pulling off the flywheel or pulling the sparkplug.
Yep some of your symptoms could point to a bad flywheel, and you had mentioned that you were getting fuel -- so guys did not doubt the fuel delivery -- but I think NOT now, since you just mentioned the O-ring problem. That leaking suction O-ring is a motor killer for sure. Before the new O-rings arrive, you can test for that by bypassing the tank with a hose from a fuel can, and going straight to the fuel filter. But be SURE to remove the fuelcap on the machine whenever doing that!, since you are still pumping fuel back into the tank -- and without also sucking from the tank at the same time, you would pressurize the tank = danger! Also beware that you are gradually filling up the tank as you do that testing!, and could risk an overflow if you are not paying attention.
Yep some of your symptoms could point to a bad flywheel, and you had mentioned that you were getting fuel -- so guys did not doubt the fuel delivery -- but I think NOT now, since you just mentioned the O-ring problem. That leaking suction O-ring is a motor killer for sure. Before the new O-rings arrive, you can test for that by bypassing the tank with a hose from a fuel can, and going straight to the fuel filter. But be SURE to remove the fuelcap on the machine whenever doing that!, since you are still pumping fuel back into the tank -- and without also sucking from the tank at the same time, you would pressurize the tank = danger! Also beware that you are gradually filling up the tank as you do that testing!, and could risk an overflow if you are not paying attention.