I am slightly interested in one of these. do you have any pics of one. how do they work and what do they monitor? also pricing?
thanks
status light kit
QUOTE (darkknight @ Mar 21 2009, 07:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I am slightly interested in one of these. do you have any pics of one. how do they work and what do they monitor? also pricing?
thanks
thanks
If you are handy with a soldering iron you can make your own.
other wise I'm sure 'boomer can help.
There is a green light, tells you the ECU is on.
Red light is for the coolant temp. when it is off it is good, slow flashing is hot, fast flashing is very hot and you had better not keep running.
Yellow I believe is when your battery is too low or something, I tried to make it come on by unplugging the coolant sensor but it didn't light.
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thedeatons
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Look man... no offense, but misinformation is BAD..... Here is what the lights do:
You got red right..... No red is good. slow blink means getting warm, perhaps a problem with an air bubble in the system. Fast flash requires a shut down to check everything out, at least touch the radiator making sure it is not cold (BAD!)
Yellow means an ECU fault, such as an injector unplugged, etc... Yellow does not mean you need to stop, and the engine may run just fine, but the error should be checked for piece of mind, just like a check engine light on a car.
Green should be on all the time, it means the battery is charging....
Each of the light thresholds can be adjusted with the D&M kit, so you can fine tune when your temp light comes on, when the battery charging light starts flashing (meaning low battery), etc.
You CAN make one yourself, but finding a nice LED like Boomer provides means research. I know what my time is worth per hour, and frankly it would take a few hours to research the LEDs. After finding the LEDs you still need to find, purchase and pinout the Deutch (sp?) connector so everything is weatherproof. More time and money and R&D spent...
Boomer offers a solid kit that has only become more refined over the years. I have purchased inferior kits before for $20, and they sucked. The LEDs were from Radio Shack, and there was no connector. The guy expected me to use pins and electrical tape around the mess.
Boomer's kit is pretty inexpensive for what you are getting. I would be surprised if he made $10 profit on it. I have purchased three of the kits from him and they have all been great. Boomer also stocks replacement LEDs in case one goes bad. I recommend the small LED kit, the large kit is HUGE! The small kit fits perfectly on the Blaze/Moto keyplate, which Boomer also has for an inexpensive price....
You got red right..... No red is good. slow blink means getting warm, perhaps a problem with an air bubble in the system. Fast flash requires a shut down to check everything out, at least touch the radiator making sure it is not cold (BAD!)
Yellow means an ECU fault, such as an injector unplugged, etc... Yellow does not mean you need to stop, and the engine may run just fine, but the error should be checked for piece of mind, just like a check engine light on a car.
Green should be on all the time, it means the battery is charging....
Each of the light thresholds can be adjusted with the D&M kit, so you can fine tune when your temp light comes on, when the battery charging light starts flashing (meaning low battery), etc.
You CAN make one yourself, but finding a nice LED like Boomer provides means research. I know what my time is worth per hour, and frankly it would take a few hours to research the LEDs. After finding the LEDs you still need to find, purchase and pinout the Deutch (sp?) connector so everything is weatherproof. More time and money and R&D spent...
Boomer offers a solid kit that has only become more refined over the years. I have purchased inferior kits before for $20, and they sucked. The LEDs were from Radio Shack, and there was no connector. The guy expected me to use pins and electrical tape around the mess.
Boomer's kit is pretty inexpensive for what you are getting. I would be surprised if he made $10 profit on it. I have purchased three of the kits from him and they have all been great. Boomer also stocks replacement LEDs in case one goes bad. I recommend the small LED kit, the large kit is HUGE! The small kit fits perfectly on the Blaze/Moto keyplate, which Boomer also has for an inexpensive price....
QUOTE (thedeatons @ Mar 21 2009, 10:33 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Look man... no offense, but misinformation is BAD..... Here is what the lights do:
You got red right..... No red is good. slow blink means getting warm, perhaps a problem with an air bubble in the system. Fast flash requires a shut down to check everything out, at least touch the radiator making sure it is not cold (BAD!)
Yellow means an ECU fault, such as an injector unplugged, etc... Yellow does not mean you need to stop, and the engine may run just fine, but the error should be checked for piece of mind, just like a check engine light on a car.
Green should be on all the time, it means the battery is charging....
Each of the light thresholds can be adjusted with the D&M kit, so you can fine tune when your temp light comes on, when the battery charging light starts flashing (meaning low battery), etc.
You CAN make one yourself, but finding a nice LED like Boomer provides means research. I know what my time is worth per hour, and frankly it would take a few hours to research the LEDs. After finding the LEDs you still need to find, purchase and pinout the Deutch (sp?) connector so everything is weatherproof. More time and money and R&D spent...
Boomer offers a solid kit that has only become more refined over the years. I have purchased inferior kits before for $20, and they sucked. The LEDs were from Radio Shack, and there was no connector. The guy expected me to use pins and electrical tape around the mess.
Boomer's kit is pretty inexpensive for what you are getting. I would be surprised if he made $10 profit on it. I have purchased three of the kits from him and they have all been great. Boomer also stocks replacement LEDs in case one goes bad. I recommend the small LED kit, the large kit is HUGE! The small kit fits perfectly on the Blaze/Moto keyplate, which Boomer also has for an inexpensive price....
You got red right..... No red is good. slow blink means getting warm, perhaps a problem with an air bubble in the system. Fast flash requires a shut down to check everything out, at least touch the radiator making sure it is not cold (BAD!)
Yellow means an ECU fault, such as an injector unplugged, etc... Yellow does not mean you need to stop, and the engine may run just fine, but the error should be checked for piece of mind, just like a check engine light on a car.
Green should be on all the time, it means the battery is charging....
Each of the light thresholds can be adjusted with the D&M kit, so you can fine tune when your temp light comes on, when the battery charging light starts flashing (meaning low battery), etc.
You CAN make one yourself, but finding a nice LED like Boomer provides means research. I know what my time is worth per hour, and frankly it would take a few hours to research the LEDs. After finding the LEDs you still need to find, purchase and pinout the Deutch (sp?) connector so everything is weatherproof. More time and money and R&D spent...
Boomer offers a solid kit that has only become more refined over the years. I have purchased inferior kits before for $20, and they sucked. The LEDs were from Radio Shack, and there was no connector. The guy expected me to use pins and electrical tape around the mess.
Boomer's kit is pretty inexpensive for what you are getting. I would be surprised if he made $10 profit on it. I have purchased three of the kits from him and they have all been great. Boomer also stocks replacement LEDs in case one goes bad. I recommend the small LED kit, the large kit is HUGE! The small kit fits perfectly on the Blaze/Moto keyplate, which Boomer also has for an inexpensive price....
So where was the misinformation?
You said that I got the red lights right.
I just stated what my observations were about the yellow, maybe it will come on if an injector comes unplugged, If it does I'd suggest stopping or it it's likely you will have a problem getting half the fuel. the information about the low battery was just what I recall reading on one of the 'dale sites, if that info is wrong then I'm sorry for passing it along. Has anyone seen the yellow come on? if so what was the cause, that is something I'd like to know but would like to hear first hand info.
I must have my wiring wrong for the green, as soon as I hit the start button the green light comes on, motor not running, can't be charging. The light will also go off after about 2 minutes or so of not running, also from what I recall, that is about the time the ECU will time out.
If I have passed along any misinformation I apologize, 'nuff said.
I was not trying to cut out any of Boomers business, I thought I directed Darknight his direction, just throughout more than one option.
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thedeatons
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Canniboomer
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OOPs, sorry for the delayed response. Some of this has already been answered here.
The green will be ON solid whenever the ECU is activated, and whether it's charging or not charging.
The green will blink slowly at low voltage to warn you of possible poor charging, or too much power drain -- so you can maybe turn off running lights until you can check things out.
The green will blink fast at critically low voltage,...which at that point you just hope to not stall, since there won't be enough power to re-start the machine!
The yellow is just a check-system light, to indicate there is SOME fault -- maybe not serious, and not reliable until the motor is running.
For Kits?,...... a booted plug end is all done for you, so there is no harness hacking or splicing involved -- you just plug it in.
For the loose pigtailed LEDs kit?, that one is $49 for the small super-bright LEDs in the chrome taper housings -- the taper housings don't collect dirt and grit. You have to do a few solders, or use some weatherproof dielectric crimps (now also included, along with the usual shrink tube and sleeve).
For a Pre-assembled Keyplate Unit with Super-Brite LEDs....and just bolt it on with a direct plug IN to your ATV harness,......as pictured with the cDale badge is $95.
But, there are so many other other LED options and mounting ideas.
I also have a combo Steered Headlight Mounting Yoke, with the 3 LEDs installed into that (pics later).
The Status Lights feature is already built in to the S1000 ECU and software -- so it's just a matter of tapping in to that, and displaying what Cannondale already made available.
The green will be ON solid whenever the ECU is activated, and whether it's charging or not charging.
The green will blink slowly at low voltage to warn you of possible poor charging, or too much power drain -- so you can maybe turn off running lights until you can check things out.
The green will blink fast at critically low voltage,...which at that point you just hope to not stall, since there won't be enough power to re-start the machine!
The yellow is just a check-system light, to indicate there is SOME fault -- maybe not serious, and not reliable until the motor is running.
For Kits?,...... a booted plug end is all done for you, so there is no harness hacking or splicing involved -- you just plug it in.
For the loose pigtailed LEDs kit?, that one is $49 for the small super-bright LEDs in the chrome taper housings -- the taper housings don't collect dirt and grit. You have to do a few solders, or use some weatherproof dielectric crimps (now also included, along with the usual shrink tube and sleeve).
For a Pre-assembled Keyplate Unit with Super-Brite LEDs....and just bolt it on with a direct plug IN to your ATV harness,......as pictured with the cDale badge is $95.
But, there are so many other other LED options and mounting ideas.
I also have a combo Steered Headlight Mounting Yoke, with the 3 LEDs installed into that (pics later).
The Status Lights feature is already built in to the S1000 ECU and software -- so it's just a matter of tapping in to that, and displaying what Cannondale already made available.
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marshall100
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Canniboomer
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Hey Will...congratulations on your racing success, and good job on that rebuild!
Yes various Status Lights Kits are available, and even with a different keyplate and key location (not scuffing on the tank-cover).
Some features and prices may have changed. A picture of your dash area will help for ideas I can offer, with newer pictures soon.
Yes various Status Lights Kits are available, and even with a different keyplate and key location (not scuffing on the tank-cover).
Some features and prices may have changed. A picture of your dash area will help for ideas I can offer, with newer pictures soon.
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marshall100
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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marshall100
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
