Cannondaleriders

Hey! I've been reading about the status lights and am not clear if it also monitors coolant temp. Kinda gun-shy as I have had temperature issues stemming from broken impeller stud. I can't send a pic since my Cannibal is at Blackwidow waiting for engine to arrive from rebuild. Keyplate is same as Marshall's (above) but no kill switch (yet). What are my options? Pricing?

Thanks!
Kelly

Yes Coolant Temp -- 2 warning levels are handled by the Red LED.

You have lots of options, just depending on your setup now.
I'll send pics and more info when I can,....just leave your contact details via email or PM.

DIY kit only, keyplated plug-in setup, or a fatbar conversion with diagnostic Speedo, or just the Speedo with same LED functions for voltmeter and temp, but also a digital read-out! (so cool).
I am on the road now and working on cDales during travel.... and still sending out parts every couple of days.

Status lights:
Green> Solid=ECU on. Slow blink=low voltage 10 volts. Fast blink=critically low voltage 9 volts.
Yellow> Slow blink=Fault
Red> Slow blink=Hot 194*F. Fast blink=Critically Hot 230*F

Thanks Canniboomer! I will be waiting!

Guys, I'm a tad confused at this. I got my kit off Boomer, when I run the bike I get a constant RED LED on all the time, is that normal?

Bike runs fine by all accounts

I don't think that's right. I'm pretty sure the red light should be off until the temp gets up to the warning level that you set in the ecu. Then it should blink slow. When I installed my optimum power kit, the lights weren't working right either. I can't remember what wasn't working right with the lights but it turned out to be my ecu, NOT the lights. Bike ran fine otherwise but I got a new ecu just to make the lights work right.

Oh crap, that's not what I wanted to hear

I went through my old emails and found the conversation I had with scooter trying to diagnose the problem. The problem I was having was the green power light was not coming on at all. Like I said it turned out to be my ecu. I would make sure you're using the rev 4 hex code first, reload it if you have to and see if that does something. I think I read somewhere the different hex codes operate the lights differently. Not positive on that but it won't hurt.

Remind me NEVER to go messing with this 2 days before a race.

You probably have the rev 3 hex in the ecu and as stated above they will not work as they should but the machine will run like it should. I would wait till after the race then make the change to the 4 k hex code. That will fix your problem.

Scooter