Replacement, uhhh, nuts

[NRath]

hehehe!

Mine are fine, but the 'dale needs some new nuts! All the original "lock" nuts aren't locking anymore. Mostly looking for the M10's for the a-arms, shocks, and tie-rods.

Are you selling something good for it?

[cannondale27]

Use Loctite and tighten them to torque.If arm is bound up with nut tight sleeves need to be replaced.I posted the torque somewhere.

[Canniboomer]

The OEM nuts are probably the best, as they are a harder grade 10.9,.... and the metal-clip locking is more re-useable than any type of nylon-insert locknut, or deformed pinch nuts which are considered "single-use". But, there is still a limit to how many times the stock nuts should be re-used, and a quick dab from a loctite pastestick is recommended anyway.
Cannondale had used 271 permanent red loctite on those, and first-time removals without heat have caused some round-outs of the stud hex -- so beware, and consider preheating with a blow gun and using a good hex key.

I have all of those OEM parts at a good discount.
Also, you can use camlocks wherever there is room for a washer. I use them under most all nuts and bolts these days -- cradle bolts, axle nuts, tierod studs, shock and brace mounts, A-arm mounts, rear (jiggly) grab bar, exhaust-to-subframe, etc. email any hardware list to pacrimdm@msn.com for a quick quote, thanks.

Stainless items are only supplied where lower strength is OK.

[NRath]

Ohh, you can be sure I use the LocTite. My feeling is if you want to keep the screw or bolt, put loctite on it- especially the fender mounting screws. I even loctited all 300 screws that hold together a desk/workbench my son and I just put together for him.I expect he'll have it for many, many years and no need to have screws falling out of it.

I just figure I should replace them for good measure.