These are beefy, longlasting and adjustable -- which can make you faster because of a little extra width and better handling if you so desire. I will never run the stock style balljoints again. Who says there aren't new Cannondales being made? This is that big of a improvement. Last pic is of my 2010 Cannondale Blaze! Thanks to guys like Boomer and everyone else who contributes we can and are still competitive!
These can be ordered as a full arm assembly upper and lower arms, or do-it-yourself kit and save some $. Here is how I did it without even removing the arms from the quad! Give Dave a call and you will be amazed!
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Canniboomers Balljoints Installed
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cannondale27
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
QUOTE (Dachshund @ Nov 13 2009, 07:27 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Awesome job Steve, but could you post a couple of pics? How much width is added?
You are kidding about pics right?You can see them?
QUOTE (cannondale27 @ Nov 13 2009, 09:15 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
You are kidding about pics right?You can see them?
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cannondale27
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Bugger 
Man it felt good to cut those stock balljoints off. I hated those things. Everyone says that something is weird I should be depressed with all the things happening lately. But they dont understand what a good ride after doing a major improvement to your machine can do. I believe I will be happy for weeks now
Man it felt good to cut those stock balljoints off. I hated those things. Everyone says that something is weird I should be depressed with all the things happening lately. But they dont understand what a good ride after doing a major improvement to your machine can do. I believe I will be happy for weeks now
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Canniboomer
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
WOW Steve!,...... and you installed them so fast in those few hours that evening?...cool! Thanks so much for taking the time, and providing all the pictures!
Up until your send-out kit, I had only prepped them in-house to New or Reconditioned stock 2002 A-arms,..... but like you say, anybody with some common tools can do this job,.... DIY.
For C'dalers that have contacted me for balljoints in the past 2 years,.... I have been mentioning these -- and all users to-date are really noticing the big improvement. The ability to equalize frame variations for exactly the same camber on each side is nice enough, before even looking at the other benefits of:.... up to Plus 1/2" width with the same tie rods and brake line, more negative camber than any stock machine, and easy camber adjustment WITHOUT having to detach from the spindle and turn the whole thing. And, the heavy-duty boots that make intimate spindle contact, the H-slot anti-rotate ballposts for left-right only, instead of weaker designs that have less metal above the ball and spin 360. These balljoints have already been installed on several Baja winners by now,.... on Team Honda machines.
Here are some additional pictures.
We have had no problem with cutting out the lower web up to the innermost small Hole, for plenty of wrench clearance. For the uppers arms, it's much easier of course.
You will find it handy to have two nice fitting 15/16" wrenches, and one with a box end is perfect for the tight access to the lower inner nut. You wont't need go out and buy any 24mm wrenches.
$139/set is for the First-Time Conversion Kit (includes all 4 balljoints and other first-time parts). Included are 4 stainless Honda-cDale spindle adapters, dual stainless jam nuts, dual camlocks, inner sleevebushings, castle nuts, and cotter pins. They even come with these over-done HD orange boot protectors, just for packing protection -- those get removed for installation.
And NOTE!,...for the NEXT time you may need to replace these Balljoints?, and probably thousands of miles into the future?, the joints alone are only $19 each...that's my price now anyway, or $75 for a set of 4....Also, you can use Eyeball or Lonestar Frap balljoints interchangeably -- or any Honda male aftermarket balljoint with the same metric thread.
Up until your send-out kit, I had only prepped them in-house to New or Reconditioned stock 2002 A-arms,..... but like you say, anybody with some common tools can do this job,.... DIY.
For C'dalers that have contacted me for balljoints in the past 2 years,.... I have been mentioning these -- and all users to-date are really noticing the big improvement. The ability to equalize frame variations for exactly the same camber on each side is nice enough, before even looking at the other benefits of:.... up to Plus 1/2" width with the same tie rods and brake line, more negative camber than any stock machine, and easy camber adjustment WITHOUT having to detach from the spindle and turn the whole thing. And, the heavy-duty boots that make intimate spindle contact, the H-slot anti-rotate ballposts for left-right only, instead of weaker designs that have less metal above the ball and spin 360. These balljoints have already been installed on several Baja winners by now,.... on Team Honda machines.
Here are some additional pictures.
We have had no problem with cutting out the lower web up to the innermost small Hole, for plenty of wrench clearance. For the uppers arms, it's much easier of course.
You will find it handy to have two nice fitting 15/16" wrenches, and one with a box end is perfect for the tight access to the lower inner nut. You wont't need go out and buy any 24mm wrenches.
$139/set is for the First-Time Conversion Kit (includes all 4 balljoints and other first-time parts). Included are 4 stainless Honda-cDale spindle adapters, dual stainless jam nuts, dual camlocks, inner sleevebushings, castle nuts, and cotter pins. They even come with these over-done HD orange boot protectors, just for packing protection -- those get removed for installation.
And NOTE!,...for the NEXT time you may need to replace these Balljoints?, and probably thousands of miles into the future?, the joints alone are only $19 each...that's my price now anyway, or $75 for a set of 4....Also, you can use Eyeball or Lonestar Frap balljoints interchangeably -- or any Honda male aftermarket balljoint with the same metric thread.
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dalewannbe
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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Canniboomer
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
dalewannbe,....the OD of the bushings are 13/16", and the ID of the stock pipe ends are already the same 13/16",....so you just need to clean up the ends of your crosscuts to that same diameter.
But also CALL me. There have been 2 reports of these balljoints tightening up after water crossings,...(first incidents per supplier after 15 years) so each joint is now getting pre-checked for ample grease. Please call during install for other misc info as needed,.... thanks Dave 360 574-2613.[/quote]
But also CALL me. There have been 2 reports of these balljoints tightening up after water crossings,...(first incidents per supplier after 15 years) so each joint is now getting pre-checked for ample grease. Please call during install for other misc info as needed,.... thanks Dave 360 574-2613.[/quote]
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cannondale27
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Yup mine was one that went tight after a watercrossing 2 weeks ago, but Dave got on the issue big time. He replaced the tight joints and I added grease fittings to them, just to be sure. I survived the "race" this weekend which did put them under water, so I am fairly confident the problem is solved. Between these and Canniboomer's tierods I now have the best set of stock width A-arms anywhere as far as I can tell. No slop at all and the suspension and turning action is buttery smooth.