Still more hot start issues

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jacobw · #1 Post by **jacobw** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 12:35 am

any one cure the hot start issue for the stroker where it starts like a 400ex etc?? I cannont get my to start under 5 cranks when cold when its hot good luck I have tried ajusting the offset up and down and all over tarnation with no results dosent really matter it starts about the same and I have even tried adjusting the flowrate, I am running animals0128 map and i can tell you its not a woods map way way I mean way to snappy on the bottom it wont let you bog it much, I have 2 news dirt bike e440 based maps that i tried and they are much better for bogging but I am still having a hot start issue with then when its hot she wont start at all. My innovate afr meter will be here tomorrow so maybe I can sort some of this out with the afr and map tweak, but I have never used map tweak that much so I guess I will be shooting in the dark. I have to have this thing running in 2 more weeks another race, I messed up my clutch this weekend so I didnt even make a full lap and she was done that is the first dnf with my cannondale in 3 years of racing I have always finished a race, I was not very happy. I am to the point I am tired of messing with this hot start issue, I almost traded my suzuki vinson for a xc setup 450r this weekend but I am ready to try to resolve this issue otherwise I am switching race bikes I cant be coming off the line mid pack because the **** thing wont hot start. I have called and talked to other member and adjusted fuel up and down with no avail, I am ready to trade my ported head for a stocker that has new vavles and the bucket issue fixed these ported heads are a pain in the ***. SO SOMONE HELP ME AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

jacobw · #2 Post by **jacobw** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 2:49 am

any suggestions or did I just spend 1200 bucks on a expensive boat anchor? makes me wish I would have went back update stock, I cannot get any solid answers on why I am having trouble and everyone else seems to not have the same issues, i have used stock settings leaned, richened, help my tongue sideways, put on a to-to( well maybe that was a little extreme), hopped on one foot, rubbed the tailpipe, you get the picture and nothing helps.

azcannon · #3 Post by **azcannon** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 2:50 am

Well I have a couple of stock heads if you do get rid of that one

timbomoose · #4 Post by **timbomoose** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 3:07 am

Jacob the head will not make it start hard.If you have exhuasted mapping you might have another issue going on. Cam timing being off can make it start extremely hard also.If you replaced your cams during your rebuild there is a good chance of this. Alot of new cams are out and some ALOT.I have seen this in rebuilding many motors.Only way to truely degree the cams in is with a degree wheel on an assembled motor.Also top dead center bolt can not be trusted.Must use a dial indicator on the piston.Have done many motors 105-107degrees and all started fine.Keep the cam timing in these parameters.On yfz's when cam timing is retarded for the cam mod they start noticably harder.Another thing that might be causing a starting issue is valve clearances tightened up which would make it even worse to start on a warm motor. Do a compression test warm and cold.Other things that can cause hard staring is a bad injector or a bad fuel pressure regulater,but not common.A low battery can also cause this.Check to see what the battery puts out under load if low this can bee the cause.Even the orings on the quick disconnects can cause hard starting.I have 3 machine all different cc's with ported heads and ride with 4 others with ported heads and none have starting issues.Still could be in the mapping but would definately try a compression test. Give me a call if you need a hand.Good luck.

wistech · #5 Post by **wistech** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 4:54 am

Ill agree . Porting should not have any affect on starting. Its usually something wierd like low fuel pressure or mapping. Bad tps readings when hot. There is one thing that I would do if starting instantly is a must. Switch to a mc500 computer . But there are some issues to be dealt with there also.

cannondale27 · #6 Post by **cannondale27** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 11:26 am

I honestly dont know why anyone would waste money porting a motor for XC or harescrambles.Only way to tame it down to a stock level is to plug it up.Put a silent core in it and stock airbox and then do your tuning.Of course once you do that all the porting efforts just went down the tubes.

Derno24 · #7 Post by **Derno24** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 11:29 am

My only question for ya Jacob is did you get on a meter yet? If not wait till after you do. I explained mapping could be way off down low. Adjusting randomly isn't going to help.

Happyboy · #8 Post by **Happyboy** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 3:33 pm

I love my ported stroker for XC....its not necessary but it runs great and i roll through the open areas like a beast. And when i go to the dunes i get to stomp people.

I use a blaze/speed for the XC and its plenty tame.

jlm996s · #9 Post by **jlm996s** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 4:28 am

Did you get that running again? It was good seeing you out on the trail again!

Canniboomer · #10 Post by **Canniboomer** » Fri Sep 15, 2006 4:33 pm

....a dragging clutch, and worse when hot -- I think he cured the problem by now.