Already tried 3 TP sensors.
I am now going to install the FMF ti exhaust, if that solves the problem it has to a mapping problem.
Random hesitation with new exhaust
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thedeatons
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Many of the maps, even stock ones, were not blended/smoothed properly. If you spend some time in ProCal you can fix them. You are really just shooting in the dark though, because you don't know whether you are tweaking your AFR in a bad way.
When I blend I make sure that at least the 100% throttle cells are dyno tuned, then I type those values into an Excel spreadsheet that tells me the percentage differences between each cell. I use those percentages to change each cell other than 100% throttle. After that I start at the upper left portion of the map, and work my way to the lower right portion of the map (diagonally), ensuring I get more fuel for each cell as I go toward the lower left. That should give you a pretty good blend. There are more things you can do if you have time, but the most important is checking percentage-wise, and also ensuring when you go up in throttle position and revs that you also increase fuel. Even one cell that is a lower value on the way towards the lower right hand corner can cause a stumble when the map reaches that cell.
This is also how you can map a hard power hit, by having a large increase in fuel from one section to the next, similar to a super-steep taper on a needle. I had a 1991 Suzuki Bandit 400, and its needles had steps on it, so at 9500 the power hit like a two stroke. Literally double horsepower on the dyno there. Lots of fun.
Hopefully I explained this okay. Once you start playing with the mapping you will realize how easy it is. ProCal is downloadable from CannondaleCentral.com. This is how I got my street legal dirtbike to behave so spectacularly on the street. I spent about 12 hours on the map, every day after work for nearly two weeks. It was worth it.
When I blend I make sure that at least the 100% throttle cells are dyno tuned, then I type those values into an Excel spreadsheet that tells me the percentage differences between each cell. I use those percentages to change each cell other than 100% throttle. After that I start at the upper left portion of the map, and work my way to the lower right portion of the map (diagonally), ensuring I get more fuel for each cell as I go toward the lower left. That should give you a pretty good blend. There are more things you can do if you have time, but the most important is checking percentage-wise, and also ensuring when you go up in throttle position and revs that you also increase fuel. Even one cell that is a lower value on the way towards the lower right hand corner can cause a stumble when the map reaches that cell.
This is also how you can map a hard power hit, by having a large increase in fuel from one section to the next, similar to a super-steep taper on a needle. I had a 1991 Suzuki Bandit 400, and its needles had steps on it, so at 9500 the power hit like a two stroke. Literally double horsepower on the dyno there. Lots of fun.
Hopefully I explained this okay. Once you start playing with the mapping you will realize how easy it is. ProCal is downloadable from CannondaleCentral.com. This is how I got my street legal dirtbike to behave so spectacularly on the street. I spent about 12 hours on the map, every day after work for nearly two weeks. It was worth it.
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thedeatons
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Not sure whether you are already doing this but do a throttle cal. Set the minimum with the screw all the way out, not touching the throttle at all. Maximum should be with your thumb throttle depressed all theway to the stop. After doing that is when you dial the idle screw in to achieve your 2-3%. If not then move to a setting on the D&M.....
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thedeatons
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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MyCannibal
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
yeah you'd think if its all the way backed out it would read zero...that would be fully closed...not enough slack in the throttle cable when doing throttle cal maybe?..yeah your idle should be at 2 to 3 percent, if your screw is backed all the way out it wont even begin to idle and your percent should be at 0 then.
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MyCannibal
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm