Getting a close map before going to dyno
Guys im lookin for a close map before I get to the dyno. I'm kinda straped for cash and don't want to spend big bucks at the dyno. (Dam Toys)
I just got the motor put back in, it idle's ruff and when I give it a little gas it will shoot a flame out the pipe. does that mean lean on the topend? and fat on lowend?
I don't want to burn another piston and sleeve up running to lean on topend.
Here is my set up.
I have a fresh stock piston, rings, and sleeve.
Boomer air intake w/ UNI
Boomer gas tank
HMF Full
PS, I ride the dunes
Thanks
I just got the motor put back in, it idle's ruff and when I give it a little gas it will shoot a flame out the pipe. does that mean lean on the topend? and fat on lowend?
I don't want to burn another piston and sleeve up running to lean on topend.
Here is my set up.
I have a fresh stock piston, rings, and sleeve.
Boomer air intake w/ UNI
Boomer gas tank
HMF Full
PS, I ride the dunes
Thanks
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Make darn sure that your flywheel did not spin a little and retard the timing a little... experienced this for the first time this last weekend and that is kind of how it got all the sudden.
Give us all of your settings and we can probably give you an idea of where to go... get it starting and running as good as you can before you take it to the dyno or you will loose alot of time.
Give us all of your settings and we can probably give you an idea of where to go... get it starting and running as good as you can before you take it to the dyno or you will loose alot of time.
QUOTE (rayspeed @ Mar 30 2009, 12:56 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Make darn sure that your flywheel did not spin a little and retard the timing a little... experienced this for the first time this last weekend and that is kind of how it got all the sudden.
Give us all of your settings and we can probably give you an idea of where to go... get it starting and running as good as you can before you take it to the dyno or you will loose alot of time.
Give us all of your settings and we can probably give you an idea of where to go... get it starting and running as good as you can before you take it to the dyno or you will loose alot of time.
Good point, I will will check the flywheel tonight and also put the moto map in and see what that does. I will post the settings tonight also.
Thanks for the input ray.
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So I checked the flywheel and not spun. I took the stock speed map out and put the moto map in. The quad idle's better but not the best, so I took the offset from .837 and put it at 1.00 and it runs as good as it has ever has. I have yet to take it out on the road. I don't have the flame out the pipe anymore.
This is what i have.
Injector flow rate: 2603
Offset: 1.00
Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks for the input.
This is what i have.
Injector flow rate: 2603
Offset: 1.00
Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks for the input.
Generally whenever I see the offset that low I have found a very lean condition at idle...
1.00 or 1.05 was probably closer to factory settings which is why that helped.
Coincidently I have found that when you end up with the throttle percentage above five or six percent to get 2200 rpm idle and it is lean and erratic then you have that number too low. There is procedure somewhere to play with that untill it idles bad because it is too rich and then go back .05 from where it was good somewhere around here that gets you close.
The 2603 flow rate was probably the flow rate that was put into the map and you failed to change it in the change settings box and check it before you sent the map. Be carefull you are probably very lean up top right now. I would suspect that you will need to lower that to richen it somewhere in the neighborhood of 2400 to start with your mods.
If when you get to the dyno you are lean at idle bump that up the offset in .05 incriments till it is good after you get the flow rate where you feel it is pretty good seat of the pants. You should be able to dial it in with those two settings only. Stop the dyno run if you are lean on top and move the flow rate down till you get it close and if you are too rich or lean at idle or top move the offset up or down.
1.00 or 1.05 was probably closer to factory settings which is why that helped.
Coincidently I have found that when you end up with the throttle percentage above five or six percent to get 2200 rpm idle and it is lean and erratic then you have that number too low. There is procedure somewhere to play with that untill it idles bad because it is too rich and then go back .05 from where it was good somewhere around here that gets you close.
The 2603 flow rate was probably the flow rate that was put into the map and you failed to change it in the change settings box and check it before you sent the map. Be carefull you are probably very lean up top right now. I would suspect that you will need to lower that to richen it somewhere in the neighborhood of 2400 to start with your mods.
If when you get to the dyno you are lean at idle bump that up the offset in .05 incriments till it is good after you get the flow rate where you feel it is pretty good seat of the pants. You should be able to dial it in with those two settings only. Stop the dyno run if you are lean on top and move the flow rate down till you get it close and if you are too rich or lean at idle or top move the offset up or down.
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Couple tips to make dyno tuning faster.
Use the AFR bar guage on dyno for idle and low end. Just get it in the green or slightly lean. No need to make runs. Do this last after topend tuning.
When you tune the topend don't be overly concerned with AFR till you get the line straight as possible using map editor. Then use the flowrate to get afr where most power is. Changing flowrate will leave you straight afr straight and change entire line up or down. Makes finding the power easy. Hard part is getting afr flat.
Ran into a new one last week on dyno. Check your throttle percentage especially after setting idle which you will have to do after making changes. If throttle % at full isnt 95% or preferably 100% adjust the cable or check the thumbthrottle to see if the arm inside has full travel. Ran into one that had about 1/8 in less throw than it should which led to only 80% throttle and made top end tuning impossible.
Use the AFR bar guage on dyno for idle and low end. Just get it in the green or slightly lean. No need to make runs. Do this last after topend tuning.
When you tune the topend don't be overly concerned with AFR till you get the line straight as possible using map editor. Then use the flowrate to get afr where most power is. Changing flowrate will leave you straight afr straight and change entire line up or down. Makes finding the power easy. Hard part is getting afr flat.
Ran into a new one last week on dyno. Check your throttle percentage especially after setting idle which you will have to do after making changes. If throttle % at full isnt 95% or preferably 100% adjust the cable or check the thumbthrottle to see if the arm inside has full travel. Ran into one that had about 1/8 in less throw than it should which led to only 80% throttle and made top end tuning impossible.