Nitrous engines
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cannondale27
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Having a wet system is soooo much easier. Then you don't have to mess with the base map at all. You also don't have to worry about flooding the thing just riding around. I went round and round with how to use map select with it and just decided to go with the wet system. Then you can adjust how much gas is added and change it accordingly.
Glad to see someone is going to break my 72hp.
Glad to see someone is going to break my 72hp.
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J. Delaney
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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cannondale27
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Yes the Canniboomer system is a great upgrade for a failing set of factory quick connects . I think what most dont understand is that the stock fuel system when in proper working order could easily deliver more fuel than any engine we will ever install between the rails. The issue is so many have swollen orings,plugged filters and rotten hoses that its performing way below its potential and need attention. Even with the tiny fitting and quick connects a properly working system can bypass fuel fast enough to blast up into the top of the tank. To bad most are so bad that they can hardly manage a dribble.
As far a a wet system over a dry I think a dry system is out of the question. A wet system is self contained and easy to jet for. For a dry system you would need a O2 sensor and a map that could react to it when the juice gets injected. I couldnt even imagine how long it would take and how many engines would be fried trying to build that map with our current system.
As far a a wet system over a dry I think a dry system is out of the question. A wet system is self contained and easy to jet for. For a dry system you would need a O2 sensor and a map that could react to it when the juice gets injected. I couldnt even imagine how long it would take and how many engines would be fried trying to build that map with our current system.
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wayneschofield
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
QUOTE (wistech @ Nov 6 2007, 10:24 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I couldnt even imagine how long it would take and how many engines would be fried trying to build that map with our current system.
It could be calculated fairly well actually, but I suppose jetting the fuel to match ambient conditions, and therefore bottle vapour pressure, would be easier with a wet system.....
I talked to nitrous express yesterday and their motorcycle expert is very on top of things. Im probably going to go with one of their systems. Will be using a 15:1 Cp with coated skirts and coated piston along with a stronger (but not heavier) wrist pin.
Too much compression right? According to NX not at all. This should be very doable.
Too much compression right? According to NX not at all. This should be very doable.
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cannondale27
- Posts: 0
- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
High compression motors love nitrous! Boost, not so much.
John, I'd recommend running a fuel pressure safety switch and a window switch. Colder plug with smaller gap, yes. As evidenced by the low bottle pressure seen @ Crandon, I'd strongly recommend an automatic bottle heater. You should be spraying when the bottle pressure reaches 950 psi (up to 1050ish). Any less and you'll be dumping extra fuel. Excessive pressure will lean the mixture out. When spraying, ideal AFR is typically lower (on avg between 11.3-11.8 to one). Make sure to invest in quality solenoids. A purge kit, nitrous filter and quality solenoids are always a good idea. If you're paranoid about solenoids sticking open, you can run two solenoids in a row. Do some research on "FJO Progressive controller." This device will act as a window switch, allow you to lock it out of certain gears, and you can adjust how and when the extra power comes on.
My suggestions are based on the fact that you are using a wet kit (computer will not adjust for the amt of nitrous it encounters) and are taken from what I've learned about "sprayin'" an LSX series motor. If you'd like I can pm you a link for more information.
PS 5 degrees does not seem like a lot of timing pulled for a high compression stroker with nitrous...
John, I'd recommend running a fuel pressure safety switch and a window switch. Colder plug with smaller gap, yes. As evidenced by the low bottle pressure seen @ Crandon, I'd strongly recommend an automatic bottle heater. You should be spraying when the bottle pressure reaches 950 psi (up to 1050ish). Any less and you'll be dumping extra fuel. Excessive pressure will lean the mixture out. When spraying, ideal AFR is typically lower (on avg between 11.3-11.8 to one). Make sure to invest in quality solenoids. A purge kit, nitrous filter and quality solenoids are always a good idea. If you're paranoid about solenoids sticking open, you can run two solenoids in a row. Do some research on "FJO Progressive controller." This device will act as a window switch, allow you to lock it out of certain gears, and you can adjust how and when the extra power comes on.
My suggestions are based on the fact that you are using a wet kit (computer will not adjust for the amt of nitrous it encounters) and are taken from what I've learned about "sprayin'" an LSX series motor. If you'd like I can pm you a link for more information.
PS 5 degrees does not seem like a lot of timing pulled for a high compression stroker with nitrous...