connecting rod question

Message

peterock · #11 Post by **peterock** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 6:08 am

One more thing. None of that would really matter though. I have things lined up to have stock billet rods made. We would need to have at least 10 committed to being sold at $175 a rod before it would happen though and will take about 6 weeks.

kdeal · #12 Post by **kdeal** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:32 pm

10 rods would be a short term answer. I have been researching the ability to have about 100 rods made. This would be a big investment, but could prove to be a wise one. There is also the possibility of having stock and stroker pins made as well. Selling price would be similar. We need a longer term solution.

peterock · #13 Post by **peterock** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 3:42 pm

This would be a long term solution actually. I say 10 rods as that is just the start. As more are needed more can be made. Crank pins as well along with a possible new billet half so the current half doesn't need to have the crank pin machined out of the existing crank web.

2mike18 · #14 Post by **2mike18** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 12:38 am

thanks for the info so far. with taxes coming i'm hoping to have a little left to get creative with. im thinking a longer rod and a little added stroke to the crank of course a custom made piston. so any info on sources for parts is welcome. I know im late to the game so to speak and this may seem pointless to some of you but now and then I like to be different and have one off stuff. I guess if I didnt like to be different I would still only have a YFZ450. lucky for me other than the YFZ i am graced with 2 dales.

cannondale27 · #15 Post by **cannondale27** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 6:42 am

Talk to Niel Cdale55 I believe he may be selling a stroker crank.

SlOoT · #16 Post by **SlOoT** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 11:47 am

QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Feb 6 2009, 03:39 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

....But, this rod suffered a twist, and I could not locate the matching head and piston to investigate the cause.
Also note the tapering on the small end. The stroke is the same as our stock crank.

Ah, I remember that one, that was my dads engine. I thought you also got the head and piston from that engine. Anyways the engine damage looked like a valve droped.

2mike18 · #17 Post by **2mike18** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 2:12 pm

QUOTE (cannondale27 @ Feb 7 2009, 12:42 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Talk to Niel Cdale55 I believe he may be selling a stroker crank.

I already have and thats where I started spitballing the idea. my idea is to make a long rod stroker to see if it affects the power band like I think it will. the power output might not be significant gains but id like to see. I have built a few race engines in cars and I figure the principal should still apply. im sure it will take time to get my numbers figured out and im not sure how far I can have the wrist pin moved towards the top of the piston without risking too much force on the thrust side of the piston and cylinder. I figure since I'm looking between the 448 and 505 stroke I should be safe its the additional length of the rod that i'm wondering. I was thinking about stroking the crank about 3mm and using a rod that is 1-2mm longer. I know the 448 is a 2.2mm stroker and I have 2 of those motors to compare against. maybe I could just go the 2.2mm and longer rod for a more direct comparason. its all in the air so to speak.

wistech · #18 Post by **wistech** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 4:54 pm

Do you know someone who does cranks? Brian here in town has offered to build a crank . He has experience with cannondale cranks and has custom built many strokers for other brands. He is just as much a perfectionist as Tim. Im sure it wont be as econimical as Timbo but since he is out of the game until further notice not much chioce. Tim says he has stroker pins and stock pins ready made .

2mike18 · #19 Post by **2mike18** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 5:27 pm

I know a couple of machinst but I'm not sure if they would be willing to take on the task and I figure a falicon is a grand so if I could get one made around the same money to specs I want then I only have myself to point the finger at if it dont perform. I may need to work with the guy you know wistec. I have a press in my garage anything special I need to know to press my crank apart??? soon as I know the safe way I will press it apart and post pics of what I have to work with if its even in workable condition. thanks guys

p.s.
does tim move the pin on the crank or does he offset grind the pin?

Happyboy · #20 Post by **Happyboy** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 10:31 pm

offsets the grind on the pin. So the pin is still in the stock location.