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Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2004 7:04 am
by cannibalq8
QUOTE
Originally posted by comander420
[B]heu Q8, didn't wade do the work on it last time when the wrist pin snapped? Unless he is giving you some kind of deal for installing such a crappy wrist pin, I would think twice about sending it to him. Some people that live in the US are having problems getting their engines back from him, and their money. Living half way across the world might even make it harder for you if somehing were to happen. Not saying you shouldn't do it, but just make sure that he is going to get it done right and in a timely matter!
comander420: i didnt send it wo Wade yet after the wristpin snapped .... still looking for cheap shipping company
Posted: Sun Aug 22, 2004 7:28 am
by cannibalq8
QUOTE
Originally posted by Jaybr
I've got an 02 billet crank here with about 4 hours on it, if anyone needs one make me an offer.
how much u r looking for it? .... hey J .. any idea to make another bunch of those falicons ?
Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 5:41 am
by timbomoose
Here a picture of a fixture guys can make to split their cranks to put in the bearing.You just need a steel plate between 1/2" or 7/8" thick and access to a mill or a machine shop to make it and access to a press to press it apart.Sizes don't have to be exact, just has to clear the rod and support the crank halves.Wistec has also made a fixture and found it to be a piece of cake taking them apart.
Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 5:51 am
by timbomoose
Just remember when you take it apart you must put it back together within the c'dale tolerances crank width and runout.If you do not have the right measuring equiptment to check it you can take it to a local speed shop to reassemble it if you give them the tolerances from your manual.
Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 5:56 am
by timbomoose
Anothyer thing to make sure to do if you're doing your updates is to clean out the oil journal on you crank.There is sludge in them from the manufacturer.Some cranks have a little in them some have alot.Its very simple to do.
Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 5:59 am
by timbomoose
Make sure when you clean the oil journal NOT to push any sludge into the two oli hole or can damage the bearing.Always wipe away from the hole.
Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 6:03 am
by timbomoose
A new soft plug can be purchased at a local autoparts store.Make sure the plug does just not slip in.It must be pressed in so it does not fall out and damage your motor.
Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 6:15 am
by timbomoose
This should give a few more options to extend the life of our cranks.Its seems there are alot different people working on these fixes which leaves alot of options for us which is a very GOOD thing.The falicon crank is also another great option especially being a stroker crank for some extra ponies and replacable pin.That extra stroke does make a noticable difference in power.More options make it a little easier so people can do whats best for there budget and more dependability which is what everyone is striving for,so think twice before giving your cannondale away or parting it out.We need to se these things back on the trail and track.
Dang It!!!
Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 4:20 pm
by NRath
Now, I've got to tear my motor apart!!! It's given me a solid 12 hours trouble free! Can one of you guys post the numbers on the Z bearing so I can get one for myself?
Also, how about lining up the 2 crank halves when re-assembling? Does the pin have a keyway or something to get this right? A little twist would be a very bad thing.
Thanks for breaking out with what you know Timbo- You 'Da Man!!! :clap: :clap:
No Way!
Posted: Mon Aug 23, 2004 4:27 pm
by Fox Mulder
It can't be this simple!
I've been reading for the last year how hard it was to rebuild our cranks, how it required a 50 ton press and all kinds of other special equiptment. I thought this was a $600 job, but you guys make it sound like it's no different than any other crank.