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Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2005 3:27 am
by claas900
...I thought id give this a bump see if anything new? I think im going to get my dermal tool with a light sanding disk and use a polishing end on it and call it good. For the cap I guess ill tap it and use a screw in plug.
Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2005 4:01 am
by HouserCannondale
hey just a tid bit of info about oil pressure, the measured pressures that were shown on factory dyno sheets are not in psi, they are in "bar". I am not sure what sort of measurement that is but i know like on some radiator caps they will say between 1.0 to 1.4 bar and thats usually from 14-18 psi. Just something I have noticed and wondered if anybody had picked this up? :confused:
Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2005 4:11 am
by claas900
(PSI is an acronym for pounds per square inch). In short, 1 BAR is equal to about 14.5 PSI (14.5037738 to be more precise)
Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2005 4:31 am
by wistech
Boomer I sent you a check ball but the spring on it is way to strong. You could use the seat and ball for a prototype/test .
Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2005 11:36 am
by cannondale27
The one John sent me is a almost perfect fit for the chamber at back of motor filter fits in.Canniboomer do you want to try it?I will send it to you.I am concerned about flow since I.D.of thing is smaller than passages leading to filter.
Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2005 3:47 am
by HouserCannondale
class900... just what do you do for a living anyway? or you just all around smart? lol :eek:
Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2005 4:50 am
by claas900
..Naw just a farm boy..but the www is a powerful thing
Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2005 5:50 am
by cannondale27
Boy you guys are sharp.Never noticed the bar thing.I guess our pressure is pretty good after all:D
Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2005 6:25 am
by Canniboomer
...so we are actually hitting 150psi and more on some motors at rev? or a total range of a low about 20psi at idle and peaking to around 160? (if you convert the charts) Thanks for clarifying that one.
Posted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 8:30 pm
by wistech
Ive got an off the wall idea. You could use the existing drain plug and plumb it to a small 1 quart resivior up in front of the battery . if the oil starts overfilling the crankcase it would filll the tank before getting high enough in the crankcase to go above the piston. It would need a small line to vent into the breather system and once the engine started the scavange pump would suck the oil back down and pump it into the frame. It wouldnt matter if it hydro locked every time or not and wouldnt affect oil level for checking once the engien ran a minute or 2. Yes its a band aid but very easy to do. Boomer I found some more check valves even smaller than the last one I sent you.