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Posted: Sat Sep 17, 2005 9:04 pm
by Canniboomer
Interesting!
that open-close pressure is of course the key item for a vacuum activated valve. I'm looking at tapping the frame outlet and using a Y-trap with screen there to filter ahead of any solenoid or vacuum valve, and moving left-side spardrain to bottom of trap -- then just ignoring the OEM drain that sits 1" lower and benefit from a solids-drop there, or even another magnetic plug for more fun and expense. Other benefits and features... will finish and post sometime next few weeks after valvecovers arrive and ship out.?!

Posted: Sun Oct 21, 2007 4:16 pm
by SlOoT
We are 2 years further now. Any news on this subject ?

Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 4:26 am
by wistech
Ive had good luck just chipping the epoxy away removing the plug and GENTLY tapping the steel ball into the seat to renew it. Then reassemble with new epoxy and new plug. To remove the plug just drill a small hole in it and thread in a wood screw. It will pry out easily.
Of course running with exactly 1.5 quarts in the whole system will prevent the oil from ever getting above the piston even if it does leak.

Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 3:28 pm
by SlOoT
I looked at mine today. Is it correct that there are 2 in the pump housing ? A large one before the pump and a smaller one with a rubber ball after the pump, before the filter ?

Wich one should I "renew" ?

Posted: Mon Oct 22, 2007 11:34 pm
by wanablaze
QUOTE (wistech @ Oct 21 2007, 11:26 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Ive had good luck just chipping the epoxy away removing the plug and GENTLY tapping the steel ball into the seat to renew it. Then reassemble with new epoxy and new plug. To remove the plug just drill a small hole in it and thread in a wood screw. It will pry out easily.
Of course running with exactly 1.5 quarts in the whole system will prevent the oil from ever getting above the piston even if it does leak.


Wistech fixed mine! Works great! Used to smoke like crazy, since Wistech worked on it, my bike doesn't burn an ounce!