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Cwr Cams

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:16 pm
by timbomoose
There's alot of debait on the cwr cams on are cams too week thread.From this thread looks like everyone has to tell the specialist how to build a cam and check springs.From what I've dealt with the cams they have a 100% failure rate at low hrs.My advice is if you have them drop your motor and inspect even if only an hr should be able to tell.These cams were thrown together with no research and sold for top dollar.In my opinion this is a joke.Cams were top dollar at worst quality.There are failures with everything, but not at 100% in low hrs. Remind anyone of the Winky days? Don't believe what I say, here's proof.

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:22 pm
by timbomoose
1st version of decompression the pin flew right out.All the cams I had were the improved version.Now the pin stays in but wears right out.The replacement pins are made out of soft steel.No reverse engineering to see what was on stock.Could have hardness tested or a simple file test would have done.Colors of pic was done with light to show the detail.Had trouble taking pic because so small.As you can see the small pin is worn almost right through and the edges that contacts the bucket is completely worn and smooshed.Remember this was the fixed new version decomp.

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:25 pm
by timbomoose
Here's a pic of cam with 1/2 hr on it (yamatr3)Nice burrs.Still under breakin time.

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:28 pm
by timbomoose
Hears a pic of hazzmatts with under 3 hrs.Check out that nice new looking lobe.

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:30 pm
by timbomoose
Here's a nice pic of the kibblewhite springs he found for us for an "improvement" Check out that nice lean to them after being run.Just great!

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:32 pm
by timbomoose
Kibble white valves were also made heavier and length shorter which throws spring pressure off (too much)

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:38 pm
by timbomoose
The point of this post is to keep people from getting hosed on garbage.This is all his setup,what he himself came up with.Other note when I hardness checked the cams they varied and were a little on the low side of hardness.The other point of this thread is so that anyone who is running them has a heads up to inspect them to keep from further damage.When running worn cams you have an extremely high chance of dropping your valves.The thing to look for is burrs on the tips of the cams,wornlobes,buckets and decomps.At very least all decomps are junk.The thing that led me most to posting this is that he had these things were for sale on ebay to cut his losses knowing that they are garbage.

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:05 pm
by cordovadaler
I have a set of Kibblewhite valves and springs that I have not installed yet. I was going to put them together with the stock cams. Are you saying that the Kibblewhites are all junk and I should stay with the stock setup? What would you recommend? Kibblewhite springs with stock valves and cams?

Thanks, by the way, for the heads up. Honesty is always appreciated.

Thanks Timbo

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:09 pm
by Smitty911
I have the CWR 420 cams in my head are these the ones that are problematic?

Thanks

Smitty

Posted: Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:17 pm
by cannondale27
The Kibblewhite springs dont work either.So as of right now stock springs shimmed to meet the specs in manual,with stock valves are best we can do.Class900,Brad,Me and I am sure others are trying to get a better solution.Anyhelp in getting this accomplished as soon as possible is appreciated.For me this means I wont be having a rev limiter over 11,000 rpm.But like has been said motors have survied fine at 11,800.Personal decision.