AFR measurement setup

Message

Happyboy · #1 Post by **Happyboy** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 5:13 pm

Hey Jay and ******, lets here about those Innovate setups? I hear that you have had good luck on it. I am thinking about getting one but am not sure how are you getting readings without a bung setup?

fig · #2 Post by **fig** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 8:31 pm

****** does have a bung welded on his exhaust. There is a picture of it here on the site.

I have one on my bike, I haven't used it for tuning yet. Just no time.

This is the unit that he has.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/index.html

He has done a lot of tuning on his and figured out how to get the RPM's and throttle position to register.

Happyboy · #3 Post by **Happyboy** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 8:46 pm

I have seen it before, and am thinking of buying one. I have a simpler setup and have a bung welded on my header for it. But ****** has been doing for other people and I was curious on how he was doing it. Innovate has an exhaust clamp but I read they have issues with our types of setups because of the sucking our exhausts do.

The reason for wanting to do it without a bung is all of my buddies don't want to have to weld a bung on to do this. It would be really cool if it was accurate without the welded bung.

fig · #4 Post by **fig** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 9:02 pm

I would of purchased the exhaust clamp but I didn??????????????????t think it would work, it's designed for the tail pipe of a car. The only thing that I would guess is make up a short "spacer" to fit between the headder and muffler. That would be a bear to make and you would have to worry about the accuracy of the reading with the slip joint there.

It would be nice to be able to use the meter on more than one bike without welding in a new bug every time. I weld like crap!

Good question, no answers here.

Happyboy · #5 Post by **Happyboy** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 11:21 pm

So did you just add the copper tube to the clamp on setup? I called Dynotech about their setup and they actually have a vacuume setup that costs oh $650. lol, not going that route.

I am trying to get my friends to go in on this with me and they don't want to weld bungs. So, if another way is pretty accurate I want to do that.

Thanks for the help and it would be cooler if you could post pics.

cannondale27 · #6 Post by **cannondale27** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 1:19 am

Even the Dyno tech one is really long.Probably a good idea to get all the way past the slip joint for silencer at least.

Happyboy · #7 Post by **Happyboy** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 3:25 am

I worry that you won't be getting good air flow through too long of a tube. The dynotech setup uses a vacuume to suck the air into the tube. How accurate is your setup ******? And is there a noticable difference between useing the copper tube and just the exhaust clamp?

Jaybr · #8 Post by **Jaybr** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 5:20 am

I never welded the bung in mine, I've got a copper tube that extends all the way through the silencer to where the pipe bends.

I can't really say if it's as accurate because I never took a reading with the bung, but if I was going to weld in a bung it would be close to the same place where the tube reaches.

I've tuned several quads with it and always got them running great.

I also have the PC connection to pump the numbers into Excel

kdeal · #9 Post by **kdeal** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 2:38 pm

I believe the standard is about 8 inches from the head. So they are definitely in the ballpark. The distance should be in the instructions on where to weld the bung in the pipe.

Jaybr · #10 Post by **Jaybr** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 4:38 pm

Since we have dual pipes coming off the head, and the silencer overlaps the headpipe about to the split, there's really a very small section where you can put the bung and that's pretty close to where the tube goes.

I'm not trying to convince anyone that the tube is 100% as accurate as the bung, but they should be pretty close.