Really the gains to me outweigh any small loss in power.I think they are more reliable than stockers since coil isnt getting baked by the motor.Plus the tach readings are so easy and dead on.Have never fouled a plug with it.But I need that 60hp and every little bit helps so thanks for the tip.We will see if it applies.
Deatons I doubt Wistech is a VW freak.Just a power freak!I wish I still had my Beetle though.40mpg and took a beating.Froze in it in winter though :lol:Made front page of local rag with it during some flooding.Yes they do float!
R/D Valvespring Head
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m_mcgranahan
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
Hi,
Um, I think the cap can make snese as they build up a bigger charge and then releasee it all at once. This is assuming that you use just the right plugs etc to make sure the build up doesn't delay the spark too long. I would be interested to see those same dyno tests using different spark plugs and timming to see if there is a point that the nology setup does gain HP. I know they claim a HP and economy increase from nology. Just interesting that the vws didn't see it.
God bless...
Mark
Um, I think the cap can make snese as they build up a bigger charge and then releasee it all at once. This is assuming that you use just the right plugs etc to make sure the build up doesn't delay the spark too long. I would be interested to see those same dyno tests using different spark plugs and timming to see if there is a point that the nology setup does gain HP. I know they claim a HP and economy increase from nology. Just interesting that the vws didn't see it.
God bless...
Mark
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m_mcgranahan
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Hi,
On a different note, anyone have experience machining Titanium? (I worked in a machine shop for a year, but we never cut any Ti) Do you just use Carbide, or does it take special tools? Is it tough to cut?
Does it make sense to use it for valves because it is so brittle? It just seens like it likely to break one off in the head, don't know, just thinking aloud. Also, what grade/Ti number/type is used for valves? Rods? (I guess it could be a different grade that is less brittle)
Thanks
God bless...
Mark
On a different note, anyone have experience machining Titanium? (I worked in a machine shop for a year, but we never cut any Ti) Do you just use Carbide, or does it take special tools? Is it tough to cut?
Does it make sense to use it for valves because it is so brittle? It just seens like it likely to break one off in the head, don't know, just thinking aloud. Also, what grade/Ti number/type is used for valves? Rods? (I guess it could be a different grade that is less brittle)
Thanks
God bless...
Mark
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cannondale27
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Titanium really takes heat well so that and its light wieght are advantages.Not sure what you have there but I have found Ti to be very pliable.Not brittle at all.Look how easy it is to straighten out the Ti exhaust cans.
I cant help you in cutting the stuff.I know it is a nightmare with anything other than carbide to port the Ti Header.
I cant help you in cutting the stuff.I know it is a nightmare with anything other than carbide to port the Ti Header.
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wayneschofield
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You need sharp tools to cut it (tools blunt quite quickly though) Cobalt seems OK but someone better qualified than I would tell you better re tooling.
It's pretty rough on anything it rubs against, so it's better to have stems coated to save the guides. Conod thrust sides tend to get plasma-sprayed with Aluminium.
6%AL 4% Vanadium is very strong and is what gets used for structural stuff but you won't work it unless you heat it to around 900C when it becomes superplastic, in which state it will do incredible things. Commercially pure is quite soft and workable but not very strong. Tubes and sheet that needs to be bent or folded is often 3.5% Al plus other elements, depending on application.
It doesn't generally take a DLC directly, but TiN (titanium nitride- the gold coating you get on drills and screwdriver tips) does take a DLC so you can get a DLC on a valve stem if it gets TiN'd first. It does need to be superfinished to a very high standard finish first, any imperfections and you have a very effective file!
It's pretty rough on anything it rubs against, so it's better to have stems coated to save the guides. Conod thrust sides tend to get plasma-sprayed with Aluminium.
6%AL 4% Vanadium is very strong and is what gets used for structural stuff but you won't work it unless you heat it to around 900C when it becomes superplastic, in which state it will do incredible things. Commercially pure is quite soft and workable but not very strong. Tubes and sheet that needs to be bent or folded is often 3.5% Al plus other elements, depending on application.
It doesn't generally take a DLC directly, but TiN (titanium nitride- the gold coating you get on drills and screwdriver tips) does take a DLC so you can get a DLC on a valve stem if it gets TiN'd first. It does need to be superfinished to a very high standard finish first, any imperfections and you have a very effective file!
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m_mcgranahan
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m_mcgranahan
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- Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 10:41 pm
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m_mcgranahan
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cannondale27
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Not good.First runs were right around 54-55hp and I never broke the E85 57hp record for this motor.
Switch back to Turbo Blue from CamII pump race gas if anything cost me some hp.
Switching from stock Coil to Nology gained a bit on torque(cleaner lowend)But No loss,No gain to speak of.
Q16 did nothing of consequence.
I have to make a effort to make this motor run over 160 deg.Below 160 there are tuning issues since ECU is compensating and I am fighting that.Normally I am at 180-185 deg after a fair amount of pulls.Wasted alot of time tuning a perfect AFR only to have it get all whacked out when engine temp came up above 165 deg.I dont know why this thing is running so cold but I believe whatever it is is root of my problem.
If you remember from the very begining when motor was assembled I had higher compression when Hot and less when cold.That is not normal.I checked it again and it now is normal.110 when cold 98 when warm.Will do a leak down test soon as I can stand to look at the thing.Will post a few charts of comparisons.Pretty much if I cant find something physically wrong with this motor this is the end of the line for it.Head will go on stroker 450cc.
Switch back to Turbo Blue from CamII pump race gas if anything cost me some hp.
Switching from stock Coil to Nology gained a bit on torque(cleaner lowend)But No loss,No gain to speak of.
Q16 did nothing of consequence.
I have to make a effort to make this motor run over 160 deg.Below 160 there are tuning issues since ECU is compensating and I am fighting that.Normally I am at 180-185 deg after a fair amount of pulls.Wasted alot of time tuning a perfect AFR only to have it get all whacked out when engine temp came up above 165 deg.I dont know why this thing is running so cold but I believe whatever it is is root of my problem.
If you remember from the very begining when motor was assembled I had higher compression when Hot and less when cold.That is not normal.I checked it again and it now is normal.110 when cold 98 when warm.Will do a leak down test soon as I can stand to look at the thing.Will post a few charts of comparisons.Pretty much if I cant find something physically wrong with this motor this is the end of the line for it.Head will go on stroker 450cc.