Woo-Hoo.... FLYWHEELS!!!
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Some pics of the prototype flywheel that arrived in the post this morning....
I actually should be working but, bugger it, I couldn't wait to post this.....
There's no laser-etching on it yet as this is just a 'dimensional' prototype but so far it looks about perfect. I just need to 'blue' the taper yet...
There is a slight weight difference to stock but it's as near as will make no difference. Lighter and heavier versions can be easily made. (see pics with scales borrowed from the kitchen).
The holes are in the face for stator cooling, provision to use a 'locking tool' for tightening/loosening and to save a little weight. There is one pic (with the tail end of some verniers) showing that there is more back clearance than stock so there should be no stator-fouling issues that I have read about in the past.
There is a boss around the puller thread to mount a big degree wheel (as shown in one of the pics) this can easily be fixed using a minor mod to a puller or a proper fixing 'bolt' could easily be made. This is a feature more for the serious engine tuners and builders out there.
I had the crank sensor teeth made shallower so that there is more material on the inner diameter where the magnet ring fits for the charging system. I did this so that a thicker, stronger, magnetic ring could be fitted for those wanting higher output from the charging system.
The 'rim' around the edge is to allow alignment of the degree markings (not on there yet) with the 'seam' on the crank sensor for a TDC reference.
SOOOOO, how many should I be having made? So far it looks like they'll be costing me ????100 each, which is just short of $200, but that is without etching and without a charge magnet ring. The ring can be separated from an old flywheel easily enough and epoxy-glued into place.
Waddaya think y'all?
I actually should be working but, bugger it, I couldn't wait to post this.....
There's no laser-etching on it yet as this is just a 'dimensional' prototype but so far it looks about perfect. I just need to 'blue' the taper yet...
There is a slight weight difference to stock but it's as near as will make no difference. Lighter and heavier versions can be easily made. (see pics with scales borrowed from the kitchen).
The holes are in the face for stator cooling, provision to use a 'locking tool' for tightening/loosening and to save a little weight. There is one pic (with the tail end of some verniers) showing that there is more back clearance than stock so there should be no stator-fouling issues that I have read about in the past.
There is a boss around the puller thread to mount a big degree wheel (as shown in one of the pics) this can easily be fixed using a minor mod to a puller or a proper fixing 'bolt' could easily be made. This is a feature more for the serious engine tuners and builders out there.
I had the crank sensor teeth made shallower so that there is more material on the inner diameter where the magnet ring fits for the charging system. I did this so that a thicker, stronger, magnetic ring could be fitted for those wanting higher output from the charging system.
The 'rim' around the edge is to allow alignment of the degree markings (not on there yet) with the 'seam' on the crank sensor for a TDC reference.
SOOOOO, how many should I be having made? So far it looks like they'll be costing me ????100 each, which is just short of $200, but that is without etching and without a charge magnet ring. The ring can be separated from an old flywheel easily enough and epoxy-glued into place.
Waddaya think y'all?
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QUOTE (kdeal @ Jul 23 2007, 11:04 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Wayne,
I would be interested in one! Let me know when you have them made and how to get the money to you.
KDeal
I would be interested in one! Let me know when you have them made and how to get the money to you.
KDeal
They look GREAT! I will take one as well.
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QUOTE (kdeal @ Jul 23 2007, 04:04 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Wayne,
I would be interested in one! Let me know when you have them made and how to get the money to you.
KDeal
I would be interested in one! Let me know when you have them made and how to get the money to you.
KDeal
I have just sent it to have the etching done this afternoon so I'll know properly what it has cost when he gets back to me about it.
With regards 'how to pay' I hadn't thought that far ahead....
I had been thinking it would be simpler if I just shipped them all to 'B-W ATV' and you could buy them from there, assuming Brad and Co are willing to participate, which I hope they will. They have been helpful to me and seem to have everyone's respect and they seem to as committed as anyone with 'keeping the nighmare alive'....
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QUOTE (Canniboomer @ Jul 23 2007, 06:38 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Awesome Wayne!
Can the magnet array be segmented instead?, to use a multitude of smaller magnets all butted together?
Can the magnet array be segmented instead?, to use a multitude of smaller magnets all butted together?
It could be but I had visions of magnets flying over my shoulder as I tried to hold them in place with the poles opposing!
There are essentially six magnetic fields within the one ring. This makes the eighteen poles of the stator generate three phases of electricity (hence three stator wires). To use seperate magnets we would need to use twelve magnets with poles placed N in, N out, N in N out to create six N/S fields.
If we used Neodynamum....mumble... not sure how to spell it type magnets the field would be very strong, BUT, they decay in strength by 20% every time they go above 60 degC. I'm not sure how hot they would get in service at full capacity, does anyone know? (this is the main reason I chose to vent the face, thinking that we could keep them a tad cooler in service)