Posted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 1:05 pm
Some pics of the prototype flywheel that arrived in the post this morning....
I actually should be working but, bugger it, I couldn't wait to post this.....
There's no laser-etching on it yet as this is just a 'dimensional' prototype but so far it looks about perfect. I just need to 'blue' the taper yet...
There is a slight weight difference to stock but it's as near as will make no difference. Lighter and heavier versions can be easily made. (see pics with scales borrowed from the kitchen).
The holes are in the face for stator cooling, provision to use a 'locking tool' for tightening/loosening and to save a little weight. There is one pic (with the tail end of some verniers) showing that there is more back clearance than stock so there should be no stator-fouling issues that I have read about in the past.
There is a boss around the puller thread to mount a big degree wheel (as shown in one of the pics) this can easily be fixed using a minor mod to a puller or a proper fixing 'bolt' could easily be made. This is a feature more for the serious engine tuners and builders out there.
I had the crank sensor teeth made shallower so that there is more material on the inner diameter where the magnet ring fits for the charging system. I did this so that a thicker, stronger, magnetic ring could be fitted for those wanting higher output from the charging system.
The 'rim' around the edge is to allow alignment of the degree markings (not on there yet) with the 'seam' on the crank sensor for a TDC reference.
SOOOOO, how many should I be having made? So far it looks like they'll be costing me ????100 each, which is just short of $200, but that is without etching and without a charge magnet ring. The ring can be separated from an old flywheel easily enough and epoxy-glued into place.
Waddaya think y'all?
I actually should be working but, bugger it, I couldn't wait to post this.....
There's no laser-etching on it yet as this is just a 'dimensional' prototype but so far it looks about perfect. I just need to 'blue' the taper yet...
There is a slight weight difference to stock but it's as near as will make no difference. Lighter and heavier versions can be easily made. (see pics with scales borrowed from the kitchen).
The holes are in the face for stator cooling, provision to use a 'locking tool' for tightening/loosening and to save a little weight. There is one pic (with the tail end of some verniers) showing that there is more back clearance than stock so there should be no stator-fouling issues that I have read about in the past.
There is a boss around the puller thread to mount a big degree wheel (as shown in one of the pics) this can easily be fixed using a minor mod to a puller or a proper fixing 'bolt' could easily be made. This is a feature more for the serious engine tuners and builders out there.
I had the crank sensor teeth made shallower so that there is more material on the inner diameter where the magnet ring fits for the charging system. I did this so that a thicker, stronger, magnetic ring could be fitted for those wanting higher output from the charging system.
The 'rim' around the edge is to allow alignment of the degree markings (not on there yet) with the 'seam' on the crank sensor for a TDC reference.
SOOOOO, how many should I be having made? So far it looks like they'll be costing me ????100 each, which is just short of $200, but that is without etching and without a charge magnet ring. The ring can be separated from an old flywheel easily enough and epoxy-glued into place.
Waddaya think y'all?